Is the recommended 0-20 bad for engine life?

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There is a difference between a liar, telling an untruth on purpose, and someone blathering out their instantiated opinion. From the first minute, which is as far as I got, he's the later.
He says that he put 0-30W instead of 0-16W and the customer called him saying the engine goes so well that feels like is another engine and consumes even less. So is true o false ?
 
I think if an engine is well built and the manufacturing spec calls for weight less than 30W there is no problem at all, but this doesn't mean that they can't go with thicker oils.
But for example, Kia had big problems with the oil pump and they are still recommending 20W, I believe that the main issue was the too-thin oil since Kia is not Toyota or Honda and needs ticker oil as a cushion between the metals.
 
After this video you will have any doubt


1:58 min mark - “you’re gonna be really lucky to get 80,000 miles out of these engines [on 0W16 oil] that is just a given.”

Welp, this is awkward…🙃

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All I know is that my 2007 Mazda 6 (which has 150,000 miles) and my 2011 Ford Focus (only has 65,000 miles) have both lived their entire lives on 0 and 5W-20, and neither of them burn or leak any oil. The Mazda's body will definitely disappear before it's engine starts burning oil.
I have switched both cars to 0W-30, not because they aren't protected enough by an xW-20, but because my Jaguar specs 5W-30 and I don't want to stock multiple oils. I just happen to think 0W-30 is the best compromise.
Cheers
 
There’s a guy on the Honda Accord forums that reached a million miles in his Accord running Mobil1 5W20 for 15,000 mile intervals. A million miles. Having said that, yeah I do prefer 5W30 over a 0W20, and because of that I run 5W30 in my Toyota that recommends 0W20. But I’m not losing sleep over this…I probably could run the 0W20 and get half a million miles out of my Avalon without issue, in fact a UOA showed wear metals to be at around 5ppm on a 10,000 mile run using Mobil1 0W20.
 
Had a couple E350 vans with the 5.4 2V at my old job that had over 200K miles. They had Knapheide work bodies on them and were always loaded. Always serviced every 5K with a 20wt oil. Never had an oil related failure. So, nothing wrong with an Xw20.

The turbo 2.4L in my Tacoma specifies 0w20 and I don't see any reason not to use it.
 
I read up on oil years ago and my general take away was that the upper number for when the engine was hot should be at least 30 if not 40 and the cold number was always too high so go as low as possible, certainly use 0 instead of 5 or 10. In general it may not make a huge difference but until now I’ve always been asking for 0-30 or 0-40. But today I was told at three different oil change shops that I had to use 0-20 because that was all they could select or that was their shop rule. I know the auto mfg’s have asked for thinner oil to help get their mpg up. But IMHO i suspect that is at the expense of some engine life. I'd rather lose .5 mpg and have even a few more months of engine life. Even if the cost comes out in favor of using the thinner oil, time and effort or big factors for me.
I know some people on this forum, at least in years past, do very detailed even scientific study of such things as how much running a thinner oil hurts engine life. And I know there will be some people on both sides of the issue, there always are. But I'd still like to get a few comments on what people think of being forced to stay on 0-20. Should i find a different shop to get the oil I think is better or just accept the trend?
If you are using 0w20 you are doomed. Since thicker is better, use 20w50 and sleep well. Sarcasm. Your engine will outlast the rest of the car using 0w20. The BITOG population represents a very small percentage of people that even care about oil. Most folks never give it a second thought and drive their cars just as many miles as any of us. It makes us feel better knowing what’s poured in our engines. I’m there. 0w20 will be fine.
 
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Hot take: 0W20 has been mainstream for nearly two decades worldwide, and has made a good reputation for itself as “good enough” for engine wear protection. 5W30 has been around much longer and has much more evidence to support its superior protection under higher ambient and engine temps, and withstanding more of a beating.

When it comes down to a reputable brand like the Valvoline Advanced that I use, and the only difference is going to be going with the manufacturer “recommendation” (largely imposed for cafe standards to eek out half a mpg more), I will choose 5w30 over 0w20 every time for engine protection.

That being said, I do live in a very cold climate and I need low temperature protection, so I do use 0W30 in winter as a compromise.

Simple answer: if you use what the manufacturer recommends and what it says in the manual/on the oil cap, and observe responsible change intervals, and treat the engine right in general, there’s a very high likelihood your engine will have a good long life. If you want to take extra precautions to hopefully make it last even longer, 5 or 0W30 is also a very good option that will certainly add more protection, not less.
 
There’s a guy on the Honda Accord forums that reached a million miles in his Accord running Mobil1 5W20 for 15,000 mile intervals. A million miles. Having said that, yeah I do prefer 5W30 over a 0W20, and because of that I run 5W30 in my Toyota that recommends 0W20. But I’m not losing sleep over this…I probably could run the 0W20 and get half a million miles out of my Avalon without issue, in fact a UOA showed wear metals to be at around 5ppm on a 10,000 mile run using Mobil1 0W20.
As someone who has and has had several old vehicles I struggle to believe any engine makes it to 1,000,000 miles without an overhaul. But, maybe that's just me.
 
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