Hey guys...I've been gone for a little while but I'm back and in need of some advice...I have a 2008 yamaha r6...Ive been using amsoil 10w40 since it was new...the bike now has almost 16k miles on it. To be honest I'm.getting kinda sick of paying 13 bucks a quart for amsoil...3 quarts of amsoil and a filter cost more than 8qts of Mobil 1 and a filter for my camaro...a little crazy in my opinion. Now my question is I can get castrol tws 10w60 for free...(the oil that's used in the BMW m cars)...has anyone ran this oil in a streetbike? What do you guys think? Will it be okay for say 2500 mile drain intervals? Any adverse affect on the clutch? The owners manual says that I can use 20w40...so I'm not sure about the 10w60..Thanks for any advice
castrol tws 10w60...08 yamaha r6...advice needed
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Way too thick for your application. Run what the bike is spec'd for.
Since you can get the oil for free I would run it once to see if your bike likes it. TWS will shear down to a 40WT anyway after a few hundred exciting miles. The only problem I can think of is speed shifting if you do that sort of things.
Well I think the manual says I can run 20w50 in certain temps...is the 10w60 really that much thicker then 20w50?
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Since you can get the oil for free I would run it once to see if your bike likes it. TWS will shear down to a 40WT anyway after a few hundred exciting miles. The only problem I can think of is speed shifting if you do that sort of things.
I do speed shift...and ride the bike somewhat hard at times...the bike will see very high rpms at time (over 16k rpms)...but will also be used just to ride to work and around town...
Since you can get the oil for free I would run it once to see if your bike likes it. TWS will shear down to a 40WT anyway after a few hundred exciting miles. The only problem I can think of is speed shifting if you do that sort of things.
I do speed shift...and ride the bike somewhat hard at times...the bike will see very high rpms at time (over 16k rpms)...but will also be used just to ride to work and around town...
16K is the actual redline limit as admitted by Yamaha, not 17.5K. Still, 16K is too much for the fresh TWS oil. The thicker oil will cause your clutch to slip with speed shifting. I would wait a few hundred miles after the oil change for the oil to shear down before getting on it.
depends on ambient if i would or would not. usually for NC i would say would not.
if it was good oil.
out of the 4 or 5 versions of castrol i have tested, only 1 (GC - syntec 0w30 thats only found at the autozoners and is a DARN nice oil) is worth more than a wooden nickle.
what i have found and especially so on even their Motorcycle Specific is that it shears not only 1 but 2 grades so fast you cant blink to keep up with it.
and my yz motor and your yz motor are kissing cousins.
imho, you can run it (summer only) and change it at 2k.
otherwise my suggestion would be to stop by chinamart and pick up the gallon jug of SRT and save enough money for a real steak dinner with each oci.
if it was good oil.
out of the 4 or 5 versions of castrol i have tested, only 1 (GC - syntec 0w30 thats only found at the autozoners and is a DARN nice oil) is worth more than a wooden nickle.
what i have found and especially so on even their Motorcycle Specific is that it shears not only 1 but 2 grades so fast you cant blink to keep up with it.
and my yz motor and your yz motor are kissing cousins.
imho, you can run it (summer only) and change it at 2k.
otherwise my suggestion would be to stop by chinamart and pick up the gallon jug of SRT and save enough money for a real steak dinner with each oci.
Quote:
has anyone ran this oil in a streetbike?
I ran RS 10w-60 exclusively in a CBR1000 SC24 for over 10 years and 160K with no problems.
has anyone ran this oil in a streetbike?
I ran RS 10w-60 exclusively in a CBR1000 SC24 for over 10 years and 160K with no problems.
Originally Posted By: sunruh
depends on ambient if i would or would not. usually for NC i would say would not.
if it was good oil.
out of the 4 or 5 versions of castrol i have tested, only 1 (GC - syntec 0w30 thats only found at the autozoners and is a DARN nice oil) is worth more than a wooden nickle.
what i have found and especially so on even their Motorcycle Specific is that it shears not only 1 but 2 grades so fast you cant blink to keep up with it.
and my yz motor and your yz motor are kissing cousins.
imho, you can run it (summer only) and change it at 2k.
otherwise my suggestion would be to stop by chinamart and pick up the gallon jug of SRT and save enough money for a real steak dinner with each oci.
Okay cool...hmm...well maybe I'll skip this whole idea of the 10 w60..when you say SRT are you talking about the synthetic rotella (5w40) or just the regular old 1540 in the white jug?...and what would be your recommendation on drain intervals with the rotella? Thanks for the help.
depends on ambient if i would or would not. usually for NC i would say would not.
if it was good oil.
out of the 4 or 5 versions of castrol i have tested, only 1 (GC - syntec 0w30 thats only found at the autozoners and is a DARN nice oil) is worth more than a wooden nickle.
what i have found and especially so on even their Motorcycle Specific is that it shears not only 1 but 2 grades so fast you cant blink to keep up with it.
and my yz motor and your yz motor are kissing cousins.
imho, you can run it (summer only) and change it at 2k.
otherwise my suggestion would be to stop by chinamart and pick up the gallon jug of SRT and save enough money for a real steak dinner with each oci.
Okay cool...hmm...well maybe I'll skip this whole idea of the 10 w60..when you say SRT are you talking about the synthetic rotella (5w40) or just the regular old 1540 in the white jug?...and what would be your recommendation on drain intervals with the rotella? Thanks for the help.
white jug 15w40 and change it when the shifting goes bad. your left toe will know when to change it.
Buy the 15w40 amsoil diesil, should be under $10.
Your not getting any gain with the extra 3 or 4 dollars, unless you need the heavy beef of the new 20w50, which i dont.
thats the old heavy duty diesil and marine type its around $9
Your not getting any gain with the extra 3 or 4 dollars, unless you need the heavy beef of the new 20w50, which i dont.
thats the old heavy duty diesil and marine type its around $9
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