Can a dealer determine what weight oil your using?

There’s no lawyers, there’s no engineers, there’s no UOA that’s going to prove the oil caused engine damage. It’s a Tech, the service manager, and the regional warranty rep telling a story to an arbitrator or panel of arbitrators that are former union autoworkers, union airline employees, and sometimes an auto instructor. Ask how I know. The misinformation regarding warranty denial is ridiculous here.
 
I posted this in another thread.
Great read for those who are curious about the warranty denial arbitration process, this is exactly how it works from the customer’s point of view. The ruling is also typical in my experience as I have been on the dealer side of this for two customer abuse cases that we lost.


This entire process just wrapped up for me and there's not much online about the NCDS arbitration process so I figured this was a good place to share.

TLDR: Dealership and Honda corporate denied my warranty claim, but I fought it in NCDS arbitration and won.

So I have a 2020 Honda Civic Sport with the 6-speed manual transmission. It's an absolutely amazing car and has been a joy to drive. Until recently. With just over 22,000 miles on it, the clutch started slipping. I would be driving on the highway and trying to accelerate, but it would do so very slowly and the engine revs would shoot up. I realized this was a problem and found out it was the clutch slipping after some research, so I took it into the dealership as soon as I could.

At the dealership, they confirmed that it was the clutch slipping, but denied to cover it under warranty. They claimed both that it was a wearable part so it wasn't covered and that the damage was caused by user error. I argued this with the dealership because I don't ride the clutch, I don't race the car, and don't do anything reckless. The service manager told me that this is just the way it is and if I have a problem, to take it up with corporate.

And so I did. I called the Honda service number in the warranty booklet and the first person I talked to said that this issue should be covered under warranty. With this information, I called back the dealership and was rudely told that corporate was wrong and that this would not be covered. I called corporate again, hoping to file a claim for the dealership wrongfully denying my warranty. Instead, I was told by corporate that this issue was not covered and they misspoke before hand.

With this, I kinda just thought I was SOL and would have to take it to a mechanic to get it fixed, which was quoted at $1600, far less than the $3600 Honda wanted but still a lot of money. Then, upon reading the warranty booklet again, I found out about the NCDS arbitration process.

This process is a 3rd party mediation process where you present your case before an arbitrator and he will give a decision that is binding for Honda, but not for the individual, so small claims is still an option if the NCDS denies your case. I did some research about this process, but did not find much online to guide me. I filed a claim anyway, not expecting much out of this process.

In filing the claim, you fill out the form on the NCDS website and tell your side of the story, what the problem with the car is, why you think it should be covered under warranty, etc. I filled this claim and within a week got a response from Honda, saying they wanted to try to come to an agreement outside of this system.

I got a call from a Honda mediation specialist, which I thought would go somewhere, but he simply reaffirmed what the dealership had told me, that Honda didn't believe this was an issue with these cars and intended to fight this through arbitration.

So we got our arbitration scheduled over teleconference call and I didn't hear back from Honda until the day before, when they sent their 'manufacturer response form' less than 24 hours before the arbitration. In this form, they made multiple claims, saying that it was definitively caused by abuse, that it was a wearable part, that I did not service my car because I never took it for service at a Honda dealership, that body damage from a no-fault accident proved that I drove my car in an abusive way, etc.

So I spent the next hours reading through this and figuring out ways to fight every point they were trying to argue. They thought that they could gain an edge by sending this in at the last minute and I was determined to take this away.

We get to the arbitration and it is me, my father, two representatives from Honda, and the arbitrator on the line. First, I gave me side of the story, explaining the issues I had with the car and why I believed it should be covered under warranty. Then Honda had the chance to ask clarifying questions, and they had none.

After this, Honda gave their side of the story, explaining the form that they had sent in the day before. Then, we were given the chance to ask clarifying questions. This was the most important part of the arbitration. We attacked every point that they tried to make. We asked them for definitive evidence that it was abuse and they had none because THEY NEVER EVEN LOOKED AT THE CLUTCH PLATE, the very part they claimed wasn't defective. The only evidence they had was that there was excessive clutch dust in the transmission housing, which comes from the clutch wearing down and is not a sign of abuse.

We asked where in the warranty does it say that the clutch is a wearable part and they had no answer, because it is not in the warranty. We asked if there was any service that should have been done to the clutch so soon (given that on Honda's website, the listed lifetime of the clutch is 100-120k miles), and the Honda rep had to answer no. We attacked their claims that I drove the car recklessly and that I didn't service my car, making it clear that they had no real evidence of this.

After question time, both sides were able to make a closing statement. This is time to tell your side of the story and your interpretation of the evidence, how it fits your claim. I brought up how they had no evidence that ruled out a defective part and no evidence that I drove the car recklessly, even pointing out that a Honda employee at a dealership taught me to drive stick.

Then Honda gave their closing, restating their argument which basically boiled down to "our clutches don't fail and this 19-year old kid's did, so it must have been abuse."

The arbitration ended after closings and we were told that the ruling would be out in 10 business days.

In just five business days, we got our ruling, stating that my request for repair was awarded! The arbitrator did not see enough evidence to support Honda's conjecture that this was not a defect.

So final thoughts on this: it's a long process and that's by design because Honda doesn't want people to use it. It takes time and money for them. And they will play dirty every step of the way, lodging personal attacks and bringing forward "evidence" to make you look worse. They'll release their report just the day before the hearing so that you are unprepared. But if you have the time and know that your are right, you can win.
 
I was just being a little flippant in my earlier postThe point appears to be two-fold:
1. The 508 00/509 00 oil is intentionally dyed blue
2. The 508 00/509 00 oils are NOT backwards compatible and cannot be used where other specifications are indicated

So yes, you can use heavier 504 00/507 00 oils in place of 508 00/509 00 without issue, but you cannot use 508 00/509 00 oils where other specifications are indicated. @kschachn's point is that the oil is dyed blue so it is identifiable in the event that is done.
Yesterday's news ... but, seriously, I've known that or some time. It's been discussed here several times, and I'm sure that you're at least one of the people who's mentioned it. The one thing I'm unsure of, are all oil brands that meet the spec dyed?
 
Yesterday's news ... but, seriously, I've known that or some time. It's been discussed here several times, and I'm sure that you're at least one of the people who's mentioned it. The one thing I'm unsure of, are all oil brands that meet the spec dyed?
Yeah, sorry, wasn't really trying to direct that at you but more the conversation in general :)

I believe it's part of the approval that the oil has to be dyed.
 
The point appears to be two-fold:
1. The 508 00/509 00 oil is intentionally dyed blue
2. The 508 00/509 00 oils are NOT backwards compatible and cannot be used where other specifications are indicated

So yes, you can use heavier 504 00/507 00 oils in place of 508 00/509 00 without issue, but you cannot use 508 00/509 00 oils where other specifications are indicated. @kschachn's point is that the oil is dyed blue so it is identifiable in the event that is done.
But my caution is there is a threshold to "higher HTHS = improved margin of safety"

My dealer installed 502 spec 5w40 for the first OCI on my 2019 Jetta 1.4tsi. I noticed the sluggishness immediately on the drive home. Concerned, a week later I verified their bulk tank which had a hanging file pocket with the content invoice. The techs didn't want me in the shops and were surrounding me like goons. Their parts department had no VW 508 00/ 509 00 in stock.

Car ran noticeably poorer than with the factory fill. It ran hot(er)** and was sluggish and even the cat con started emitting odor. Bought some Motul online and the service writer (who was sympathetic) and I installed the motul 508 00 a bit after the oil arrived.

My experience has been that Modern engines run well within an HTHS/Grade sweet spot - too thin they may knock and clatter when fully warmed, too thick they are sluggish around town and accelerating from a lower rpm and again tend to run hotter oil temps due to mechanical shear contributing to lost efficiency. I try to find this safe area of operation where required.
_______________________________
** approx 10degC
 
Last edited:
That is not entirely true anymore. Take a look at this example from Mercedes from the current generation GLE450e plug-in hybrid:
View attachment 259953
229.52 oils can be 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 or 5w-40 -- all of which have a minimum HT/HS requirement. However, MB clearly states to only use a 0W-40 grade in this application.
Interesting. Is that because the hybrid engine is more prone to humidity/dilution that they want to go up a grade?
 
A UOA of an oil that's been in service for awhile won't really tell you much about starting grade since oils can thicken but usually thin with use.
A UOA will tell you about the additive package, though.
If someone had an engine with obvious LSPI damage and a UOA revealed that an old-school high calcium oil had been used, then that would be a legitimate basis for denying warranty coverage.
In a similar vein, if a UOA revealed an additive package in no way close to what an oil meeting a manufacturer's spec would have had been used, warranty coverage could be quite legitimately denied.
Food for thought.
 
In my Honda 2.0, after I put 5w-30 it becomes so think that in UOA it looks like 0w-20, so in my case it would be impossible for them to know.
 
Oh! Using that oil with intelligent molecules?

"Hey, vi team, guys! quick rearrange and change viscosity to the OM required. I Hear there is a Bed Check in less than 5 mins!!"

I made a typo, 5w-30 thins out and UOA shows that it has viscosity of Xw-20
 
Lot of talk about the warranty risk matrix.

What are the chances that your engine fails inside of warranty, vs outside?
If it fails within warranty, what are the chances the dealer denies it for viscosity reasons?

For myself it made no sense to me to worry about the period during warranty, if you truly feel the oil you want to run is better for the life of your engine and you plan to keep the car well beyond the warranty period.

It paid off for me, my truck has had XW-30 since the first 20k kms, half of it's life to date on HPL, and it's well outside the warranty now. Makes no sense to run worse oil for the first 1/4 of its life just in case: 1) you need warranty, and 2) that they deny it due to the thicker grade.
 
Lot of talk about the warranty risk matrix.

What are the chances that your engine fails inside of warranty, vs outside?
If it fails within warranty, what are the chances the dealer denies it for viscosity reasons?

For myself it made no sense to me to worry about the period during warranty, if you truly feel the oil you want to run is better for the life of your engine and you plan to keep the car well beyond the warranty period.

It paid off for me, my truck has had XW-30 since the first 20k kms, half of it's life to date on HPL, and it's well outside the warranty now. Makes no sense to run worse oil for the first 1/4 of its life just in case: 1) you need warranty, and 2) that they deny it due to the thicker grade.
Agree 100%. And for those who are warranty worriers you best have had every single recommended service done at your selling dealer, on time by a certified tech using genuine dealer parts. Plus you must use the severe service schedule.
 
Makes no sense to run worse oil for the first 1/4 of its life just in case: 1) you need warranty, and 2) that they deny it due to the thicker grade.
Why is it worse? You mean a 20 grade? Not a shred of data here showing that anyone gets more life out of their vehicle just b/c they choose to run a higher grade oil than the manual calls for to sleep better at night. 2013 Ford Focus. Bought new. 5W20 for the last 12 years/135K/no oil consumption. Running a 30 was better right?
 
Why is it worse? You mean a 20 grade? Not a shred of data here showing that anyone gets more life out of their vehicle just b/c they choose to run a higher grade oil than the manual calls for to sleep better at night. 2013 Ford Focus. Bought new. 5W20 for the last 12 years/135K/no oil consumption. Running a 30 was better right?
I agree with you there. A lot of people here want to throw 0w30 in everything but unless that car is being driven super hard it will very likely last hundreds of thousands of miles running the specified 0w20.

I’m not saying that the higher HTHS doesn’t offer better protection, we all know about the studies that show that it does. But do most engines actually even NEED that protection? Most don’t. For example, if the 0w20 has the potential of that engine going 500,000 miles, does it really matter if 0w30 would make it last 600,000? Very few people will get to 500k before getting something else.
 
Nearly all approvals do that because the approval specifies a minimum HT/HS. Actually Mercedes-Benz is one that’s moving away from allowed grades, which makes sense because the approval specifies HT/HS and that renders a grade irrelevant.

Note that the approval dictates a minimum HT/HS which is there to prevent damage.
It's there to reduce wear. Feel free to argue lubrizon on verbage, which uses wear.
https://360.lubrizol.com/2019/Why-HTHS-Viscosity-Matters
 
I agree with you there. A lot of people here want to throw 0w30 in everything but unless that car is being driven super hard it will very likely last hundreds of thousands of miles running the specified 0w20.

I’m not saying that the higher HTHS doesn’t offer better protection, we all know about the studies that show that it does. But do most engines actually even NEED that protection? Most don’t. For example, if the 0w20 has the potential of that engine going 500,000 miles, does it really matter if 0w30 would make it last 600,000? Very few people will get to 500k before getting something else.
I actually use this all the time when my friends ask if boutique oils are better. I always say “the real question is do you need better?”
 
Back
Top Bottom