It was on purpose.
Bringing Oil to Full Operating Temperature
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Use an IR temp gun and check the temperature of the oil pan. I did this on a car of mine that has an oil temp gauge, and the temp gauge and oil pan temperature where within 2 deg F of each other (~200F) after driving about 20 miles. Could have got there before 20 miles though.
Depending on ambient temperature, our Jetta can be at operating temperature around town in less than 10 minutes easily. If its cold out it can take considerably longer. Than again it is a small displacement turbo motor, certainly different that a N/A Toyota.
If you were to read both initial posts, you'd find that they are similar but actually address two different issues. Were you trying to make a point?
Both threads address the concern about getting the oil up to operating temperature. In the other thread you thought running the oil a quart low might help do that, but people said don't go that route, but instead just drive it longer ... just like they are saying in this thread. So yeah, that's the point.
You reminded me of an item I've used in the past: adhesive labels that read the temp of the item to which they're attached. I used them in the past to monitor differential and transmission temperature. The nice thing about them is that they record the maximum temp reached and one can go back to look at them when it's convenient, even the next day or a week later. They are available in a wide range of temperatures. Here's an example I quickly pulled up without doing much searching for anything specific:
You're missing a few subtleties, but no big deal ... thanks, though, for your comments which reminded me of the temperature stickers. I might play with those again ... they were easy and fun to use.Both threads address the concern about getting the oil up to operating temperature. In the other thread you thought running the oil a quart low might help do that, but people said don't go that route, but instead just drive it longer ... just like they are saying in this thread. So yeah, that's the point.
I do not see the point in driving extra to preserve oil. Why burn extra fuel and pit extra miles on a vehicle just to attempt in vain to preserve a consumable lubricant? The moisture and gasoline will speed up oxidation and degradation of a y oil.
Now if you have to go somewhere or you just want to get out of the house and enjoy a drive that’s a completely different story and you are just enjoying a drive And the vehicle, not being a servant to it,
I would run the least expensive specified oil and change it at the severe service interval. I would also run the severe service interval of 6 months with the Castrol EP or Mobil 1 EP as well with your service.
Had you read further, you'd have discovered the points you brought up, which are good points, had been addressed. It's been a good and interesting discussion. Hope you enjoy it as much as I have.
My 2005 325i also reaches oil temp after around 15 minutes.
My trip is circa a mile out of my village. Then i slowly accelarate with no more then 50% load on the engine to 70mph which i drive for about 10 mintues. AFter that i turn on to the highway and go to 90mph. after 5 minutes of driving on the highway the engine has ran for 15 minutes and the oil is at operating temps.
This car has a MAP controlled thermostat and water to oil heat exchanger.
However only just reaching operating temps and then shutting down again is not enough to ''clean'' the oil.
I think the amount of miles alone does not really say anything, if they are city or slow commuting for example.
I think you should consider it more in operating time (like all machinery is measured in), i think to really get the oil and all parts of the engine (valve cover etc..) up to temps where the moist and gasoline vapours will be vapoured out you should run it for about an hour with medium load atleast. (especially in colder climates, in warm climates its less of a problem)
Here in The netherlands we have the same problem with a lot of cars who only are being used for small trips.
Transmission temp is another thing, especially during winters. Most transmissions will never reach anything close to operating temps, however this is not verry important because its a totally different process.
Also dont forget that especially during winter(logicly) people turn the heater on to max (immediatly) thus pulling all the heat from the engine.
This has the same effect as the radiator fan being turned on all the time.
Thats why i always cringe when i see people trying to defrost the front window with starting the car and immediatly turning on the front window defroster to maximum heat and maximum fan speed.
The engine will run on a rich full ''choke'' injection mode and wash the gasoline into the oil.
My trip is circa a mile out of my village. Then i slowly accelarate with no more then 50% load on the engine to 70mph which i drive for about 10 mintues. AFter that i turn on to the highway and go to 90mph. after 5 minutes of driving on the highway the engine has ran for 15 minutes and the oil is at operating temps.
This car has a MAP controlled thermostat and water to oil heat exchanger.
However only just reaching operating temps and then shutting down again is not enough to ''clean'' the oil.
I think the amount of miles alone does not really say anything, if they are city or slow commuting for example.
I think you should consider it more in operating time (like all machinery is measured in), i think to really get the oil and all parts of the engine (valve cover etc..) up to temps where the moist and gasoline vapours will be vapoured out you should run it for about an hour with medium load atleast. (especially in colder climates, in warm climates its less of a problem)
Here in The netherlands we have the same problem with a lot of cars who only are being used for small trips.
Transmission temp is another thing, especially during winters. Most transmissions will never reach anything close to operating temps, however this is not verry important because its a totally different process.
Also dont forget that especially during winter(logicly) people turn the heater on to max (immediatly) thus pulling all the heat from the engine.
This has the same effect as the radiator fan being turned on all the time.
Thats why i always cringe when i see people trying to defrost the front window with starting the car and immediatly turning on the front window defroster to maximum heat and maximum fan speed.
The engine will run on a rich full ''choke'' injection mode and wash the gasoline into the oil.
I'm in a similar situation. I live in a very densely populated state/area so I normally don't have to drive far to get what I need. A lot of my driving is under 3 miles. In cases like that I will often intentionally go out of my way to get the car at full operating temp. Once it is at full operationg temp, I drive the car pretty aggressively. I will at times use manual mode or sport mode to keep the rpms up a bit. I'm not sure if this helps but it is something I've been doing for quite some time.
Heat is also good for the oil as some of the additives require it to activate (ZDDP). Purely anecdotal, but it does seem that engines that are run harder run longer with fewer issues.
Heat is also good for the oil as some of the additives require it to activate (ZDDP). Purely anecdotal, but it does seem that engines that are run harder run longer with fewer issues.
On the other hand, both of my Toyota cars bump the idle speed up when you set the heat to the top red zone and also turn on the fan. Somehow the ECU compensates.
Not sure. I live 11 miles from the highway and the drive to the highway entrance consists of stop and go, so the oil is already at normal operating temp before I get there.
Hmmm ... I'll have to check that out. I wonder if my Camry does that.
For our short trippers, I do 20 minutes on the highway out and come back...that's with 6 cylinders which probably take slightly longer to warm up thoroughly.
Your 20 minute strategy sounds great.
edyvw
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You can always go block heater. I had to install that on Sienna as my kids were freezing in that car on the way to daycare first 10 minutes. It is really, really helpful and it costs $50 or something like that at NAPA.
Does that engine have an oil-to-coolant heat exchange? If so, that helps a lot to get the oil temperature up quicker.
OP lives is California ... not even close to the "cold" temperatures where most would be concerned about while short tripping.
Propflux01
$100 Site Donor 2025
Don’t forget, some engines have oil heaters at the oil filter location, so oil heats up quicker because of the coolant flow exchange.
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