Breaking the rules (oil filter and oil change interval)

[metroplex]

I logged just under 5000 miles in 11 months with 1 Motorcraft FL-820S filter and 5 qt of German Castrol 0W-30 in SE Michigan with a 2000 Ford Crown Vic w/ the 4.6L 2V V8.

I started to hear slightly more noise than I'd like while driving in the mornings (10F-20F ambient) and I am taking it easy on the gas, so I figure it might be time for a change. I did not hear anything weird during cold starts. Typically I have seen different recommended oil filter change intervals (3 months to 6 months) but decided to try annual oil filter changes since the media should not be clogging up anyhow, which leaves the bypass and ADB valves to wear.

I turned the filter upside down and the ADBV was doing its job. I had to push the valve in a little to bleed out the air and allow the oil to flow out. So ~1 year of use and the FL-820S is fine (this is with daily driving for work).

Next, the oil did not come out like black sludge. It looked like... used engine oil. I'm not too surprised since I only put less than 5k miles on it, but over a span of 11 months. I'm not doing a UOA because I don't see the point for this vehicle. If the engine wears out (unlikely) I'll put in something more powerful since right now, its pretty gutless for a 4200 lb car.

So basically I'm doing an annual oil filter and oil change due to the low annual mileage I put on my car. Does anyone see a significant problem with this?

 

[Ken2]

How did you accumulate those few miles? If you make several short, cool trips daily, you might be running that oil too long. If you make fewer trips and just about every one is long enough for the engine to get thoroughly warmed, OK.


Ken

 

[metroplex]

It's for my daily commute about 10-15 miles each way (2 times a day). My ECT gets up to temp (210F) within 1-2 miles each trip. I drive the car every single day.

I did not smell excessive gas in the oil, which is always a good sign I guess.

 

[BIGJ552000]

quote:

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Originally posted by metroplex:
It's for my daily commute about 10-15 miles each way (2 times a day). My ECT gets up to temp (210F) within 1-2 miles each trip. I drive the car every single day.

I did not smell excessive gas in the oil, which is always a good sign I guess.

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I'm not trying to be rude, but your math doesn't add up with regards to the daily miles and the just under 5,000 miles / 11 months original post.

 

[Geno]

With my wifes 1994 Roadmaster I change oil twice a year and change filter once a year.Runs about 3000 short trip miles a year and gets cold here in the winter.Thats 9 Qts. of oil at 59 cents a quart + one filter.Cheaper than a Jiffy lube oil change.Used the recmmended 5W-30.Car has 120,000 miles
With my 2000 Montana I also change twice a year.Put on 5000 to 6000 miles a year.Filter every other time and usually use synthetic due to the type of stop and go driving it gets.Use 5W30 has 90,000 miles.

Oil looks just a light gray or tan from either when changing...I never wait till it gets black on the dip stick.

From what I see the Ford 4.6 is a dirt sensitive engine and would not run a full year with out changine oil when living in a northern state.

 

[MN Driver]

Miles/Business Days Per Year = Total Mileage per day
5000/260=19.23

The math checks out for me.

The coolant temperature and the oil temperature are two different things and depending on the climate(which its cold in Michigan during this part of the year) and if that is 10-15 miles on the highway it could be developing moisture or fuel dilution, the only way to know would be to drain the oil on a cold day after driving home from work and pull a sample for analysis. I'd recommend an analysis in any situation that would be from a suspected wear problem or possible dilution issues.

 

[metroplex]

I do mostly city driving (stop and go, lots of it). It takes about 20-30 minutes for each trip. I may consider changing the oil and filter twice a year.

 

[SPITMAN]

On the low (<10,000KM annually) milage vehicles in my fleet that get annual oil changes I make sure that the change is scheduled for the late spring. This allows for removal of the higher winter contamination -- water and fuel. Also, use the largest oil filter that applies to you application. I also use a good quality oil, either GC or XD3. No problems have been experienced to date with this approach.

 

[Islandvic]

What's up Metro!?

Sounds similar to my '00 Silverado 5.3. It only has 25k miles on it.

Since day one, it has had one year OCI's or when the OLM lights up, whichever comes first.

At first I was using Fram filters and either Valvoline A/C or Pennz in 10-30 and 5-30 flavors.

Last year I used M1 10-30 and Bosch Premium filter. It took 11 months for the OLM to light up. I reset it last month and will change it this month with 6qts M1 EP 10-30 and M1 filter (only $17 from PepBoys Coupons and WalMart Shuffle).

My oil comes out dark but not smelling burnt or sludge like and thick.

For your Vic, I would trust the FL820S for a full year. If you contunue to use the GC, or any other premium oil, IMO, 1 year OCI's will be fine driven under 6k miles.

What does CV.net say. I havent checked it out lately, will have to go cruise it this weekend.

Good luck.

How is your PCV valve?

 

[metroplex]

IslandVic, the PCV is fairly new. I make sure to change it maybe once every 1-3 years. I haven't asked anyone on CVN about this!

 

[Big Jim]

In my opinion, your annual oil change interval would be appropriate if you use synthetic oil. If you are using conventional dino oil, you should do it every six months.

 

[CBODY67]

The earlier 4.6L Ford V-8s did not have a whole lot of low-end torque, but then it's also a (approx) 250CID engine. I rented a Grand Marquis back then and it could not get the rear tires to spin, even in dirt with the traction control turned off and torquing it up against the brake. Not exceptional fuel economy on the road either. Newer models run much better and get better fuel economy!

As long as you're using a quality OEM-spec filter (the "S" in the Motorcraft filter nomenclature means that the ADBV is silicone rubber) and a high quality syn oil, things sound pretty good. IF the car was being used in more short-trip use, it would be a different situation.

In a higher mileage engine situation, one theory that I started using is that . . . when the oil gets one quart down in something like 2500 miles, the rings should still be sealing reasonably well and the oil should not be totally black, so add another quart and change it when it gets "one quart down" again. From a "contamination from combustion items getting past the rings" orientation, that seems reasonable for an engine that sees a decent amount of extended freeway use and would still not exceed the max manufacturer's change interval, generally.

I know that many people will look at other factors in oil life, some are highly valid too, but for the everyday engine user, I would suspect that contamination would be an issue that the normal vehicle owner could relate to. Some of the contamination issues can be controlled with a fully functioning PCV system, but other items would not. Contamination can generally be detected by the color of the oil and the smell, by observations. These would be things that could send signals that, perhaps, it's time to change the oil depending upon use and generally accepted mileage criteria and how they might relate to internal engine conditions.

When Chrysler first went to the 5yr/50K mile warranties (circa 1963), their maintenance schedule called for 4000 mile oil changes and the filter every other time. That filter change item was a little "different", even back then and considering that Ford went to a 6000 mile oil & filter change recommendation in that same time frame, but it stayed around for many years. But, as the service manager noted, they recommended the filter be changed every oil change as it was like taking a bath and not putting on clean socks afterward. And we know how much filter and media technology has advanced in 40+ years.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

[ March 05, 2006, 11:57 AM: Message edited by: CBODY67 ]

 

[metroplex]

The latest 4.6 2V/4V, and 5.4 2V/4V engines are still gutless and are fuel hogs. Ford's answer to this is the 3V 4.6/5.4, which still does not have adequate low end torque for heavier vehicles.

 

[John_E]

quote:

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Originally posted by metroplex:
I do mostly city driving (stop and go, lots of it). It takes about 20-30 minutes for each trip. I may consider changing the oil and filter twice a year.

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That's my formula: 6 months or 3k mi / 5k km, whichever comes first. Synthetic for the 1.8T, dino for everything else.