Kirkland Oil & shorter oil change intervals

GREAT post

That’s because when we are young, we fall pray to marketing. Marketing is a science. It’s a psychology getting into the human brain and they have it down perfectly now.
How to set the right triggers with the Internet and social media. They have individuals now figured out to the individual using the electronic device such as a cell phone or computer on what type of advertising to target.

I’m with you. Late model vehicles and a boat purchased in pristine condition.
Typically I look during an economic downturn or health event like Covid in which I purchased a 2017 Chevrolet Traverse, loaded with the much-needed 5100 pound factory tow package.
We also purchased our chaparral sometime around that point in the middle of the winter.

Here we are years later and both of these i
we can sell for at or above our original purchase price and they are in pristine condition.

I have been dabbling around for our old 2012 Mazda with 95k still in mint condition used as a second vehicle for around town by my wife.
Anyway I’m considering having the US taxpayer pick up a good amount of the cost on a used EV to replace that locally used car. Just considering as you know when you play the game like this there is never a rush until you just know it’s the right time.
I’ve had the same thought - I’m in my early 50’s. Think I’m going to just buy an older Silverado - 2010-2013 and have fun replacing everything and rebuilding the engine with bolt ons and maybe twin turbos. Someone more experienced can do the transmission. I’ll keep the ‘22 Silverado for trips or what not and not put as many miles on it.
 
Thanks for the feedback on the oil.

My goal is to retire @ 60. I’ve got no calculator that supports buying new vehicles at these prices that helps me get to an early retirement.

My preferred used vehicle philosophy is to buy well maintained, (Toyota/Honda), no accidents, from the south (no rust) and from private sellers where I can ask them more about the history of maintenance with the car. I don’t mind paying a slight “premium” for these types of vehicles.

I also been fortunate to have company vehicles for most of my working career.

Kind of funny, the older I get, the less I care about having anything new….and certainly do not want a payment. When I was young and didn’t have any saving I always daydreamed about a new car, and now that I am in my 40’s and could buy any car I want, I’m more excited to be debt-free. With banks paying 5.5% Interest on money market accounts….hard to give to those greedy car dealerships my hard earned money.
I’ve been trying to figure out why I can’t or shouldn’t get a $92k car. I see them left and right being driven by lots of men women cops etc (Chevy Tahoe).

Yesterday I actually logged in to Soc sec and it’s significant 62 vs 67 (I’d have to pull the statement off the pc to get the actual number but 62 was in the 2,000’s and 67 was in the 3,000’s).

So here’s my question. How does $100k with tax and tags change what year I retire at? I told my buddy who is a Dave Ramsey follower if I get that car my son will get less so it’s like buying the car with his money (he’s 10). My buddy said he doesn’t see it that way. He says to get the car and he believes DR would tell me to get it as well.

Where is the correlation between retirement age and the cost of a new car? It would seem like the new car has more to do with expenses than it does with retirement. I have no debt which is why I would consider spending 6 figures on a car. It “is” a lot of money but it’s a Chevy not even a
caddy. My .02. And I would plan on keeping indefinitely 20 years etc

Edit Ps on the original topic I too got the 2 5qt for $29.99 Kirkland 5w30 and I plan to go 6,500 on the 2006 Lexus. I took their 5k interval and decided to add 1,500 miles. It hasn’t got an OLM like the other 2 cars
 
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I’ve been reading a lot of BITOG posts & watched a lot of YouTube videos over the years and I am starting to wonder if someone would be better off buying a good quality synthetic @ Costco (Kirkland-Warren) and pairing it with a factory oil filter and lowering the oil change interval from 5K to 3k.

I’ve been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Fram Ultras or factory filters for the past 3-4 years at 5K OCI, but have been thinking it might be better for the engine and money wise to change my approach.
Where is the formula establishing the oil drain interval vs oil filter properties?

Or, “What difference does the oil filter make?” Lots of anal fixation on oil filter particle size but how big does a particle have to be to hurt?

I don’t understand how some of you can stand not to change oil and filter every time you fill with fuel.
 
Appreciate everyone’s feedback. Pulled the trigger and bought the Kirkland oil that’s on sale.

After tax & free shipping I got the full synthetic 0w-20 for $13.72/ gallon. Thankfully all of my vehicles can take the same 0w-20.

Now I need to go filter hunting.
 
I use the Kirkland oil in my 2012 Honda Civic and usually change it at 5,000 miles. I have used many different synthetics in the vehicle and the Kirkland seems to work just fine. I recently bought a couple jugs of Mobil 1 oil for about the same price as Kirkland but will be using that in my Ford F-150. My go to oil is Kirkland synthetic however random Walmart trips will score a different name brand synthetic for the same price. The Corvette almost always gets the Mobile 1 even though I don't beat on it.
 
I think 5k is doable in a 4-5 qt oil capacity with decent operation, no dusty area.
I'm on the verge of going to the new Supertech 20K HM Synthetic oil 5w30 and using the leftover Redline to use it up and beef up the hths. Gonna go 5k oci, siphon out a few qts and run it another 4-5k and then do oil flush and have oil and filter changed with a CRC intake valve wash prior.
 
The last analysis I did was on my Cruze that was bought used with 103k on it. The 1.4L turbo had a couple of short changes (3K) due to uncertain service history. I then ran a 5k with the Kirkland 5W30 and a Champ (identical to AC, I compared them and about $2.75 ea from Rockauto) filter. This car was a daily driver for us and we are both retired, lots of short hops. The Blackstone analysis came back good and I would have no reservations running this oil for 7K (The OLM on the car times out around 7500Miles)

In an abundance of caution (OCD) at around 120k I replaced the oil line to the turbo just to make sure it wasnt restricted from any neglect. It was clear and unobstructed. I knew this car had been cared for but I wasnt sure at exactly what level. Seems to me some of the issues with this model of engine are from serious neglect.
I did the same at around 85k miles on my 1.4 Trax due to the doom on the net. It was a clear as the new one.
 
I would certainly take the Kirkland synthetic to 5K or even 6K and use an ST filter for $3.84 currently.

As far as Social Security goes... a US Senator recently said SS is going broke and won't be around in a few years which is disgraceful when we give BILLIONS away to other countries. I'm 65 and haven't taken it yet because I want my wife to get more when I kick the bucket (my pension dies with me). She's a few months older than me and just started taking it.
 
Just wanted to attach this VOA for the Kirkland 0w-20 for those that search this topic in the future

1719272089358.webp
 
I have used Kirkland FS for 10K OCIs on multiple vehicles. Why is there so much hesitation about running Kirkland to standard manufacturer OCIs?
I've run all the cheap store brands 7k+ in my life. They're fine oils to run what your owner's manual recommends.
 
The add pack looks to be on the weaker side, especially TBN, but for 5K drains this won't matter.
On 5K drains I'd be happy to rock one of these value priced store brands.
I also can't argue with the maintenance practices of someone who has nearly 400K on a DI Accord.
 
The add pack looks to be on the weaker side, especially TBN, but for 5K drains this won't matter.
On 5K drains I'd be happy to rock one of these value priced store brands.
I also can't argue with the maintenance practices of someone who has nearly 400K on a DI Accord.

What is weak about the add pack?
What do you consider a high TBN? Its well known SP non euro oil TBNs are not as high as past years, and its been written about and explained countless times why.
 
Hello all will I know this is an older post but I will chime in, I have decided to pull the plug on M1 and all of the expensive oils since my local Walmart is not having rollback prices any longer. I just noticed that Costco was having a two jigger 10 quarts for $36 offering my viscosity grade in full synthetic. I do short oil changes because of the congested traffic we have and constant idling.
So I am stalking up and switching to Kirkland and sticking with a short change interval. Yep going to buy the Kirkland brand now and perhaps a bag of peanuts at the same time! Thanks all for your oil analysis as well
 
Hello all will I know this is an older post but I will chime in, I have decided to pull the plug on M1 and all of the expensive oils since my local Walmart is not having rollback prices any longer. I just noticed that Costco was having a two jigger 10 quarts for $36 offering my viscosity grade in full synthetic. I do short oil changes because of the congested traffic we have and constant idling.
So I am stalking up and switching to Kirkland and sticking with a short change interval. Yep going to buy the Kirkland brand now and perhaps a bag of peanuts at the same time! Thanks all for your oil analysis as well
Good call. Kirkland is a great oil that punches above its weigh class. UOAs always come back looking great. How long will your intervals be?
 
Good call. Kirkland is a great oil that punches above its weigh class. UOAs always come back looking great. How long will your intervals be?
A UOA is not a tool for comparative oil quality regardless of whether an oil "punches above its weight class", whatever that means.

Kirkland oil is no better than any of the other similar Group III base synthetics on the market. Not saying anything negative, just no better.
 
I’ve been reading a lot of BITOG posts & watched a lot of YouTube videos over the years and I am starting to wonder if someone would be better off buying a good quality synthetic @ Costco (Kirkland-Warren) and pairing it with a factory oil filter and lowering the oil change interval from 5K to 3k.

I’ve been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Fram Ultras or factory filters for the past 3-4 years at 5K OCI, but have been thinking it might be better for the engine and money wise to change my approach.
Kirkland/Super Tech Synthetic is Dexos 1 Gen 3 approved, and at a 5,000 mile OCI should do equally as well as any other brand.
I like the generous amounts of phosphorous and zinc anti-wear additives in that oil.

When I was younger, I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Amsoil at 4,000 mile OCI with the expensive Mobil 1 oil filters.
It really had no benefit whatsoever. I also over maintained those vehicles by doing a ton of preventative maintenance.

I don't even own those vehicles any more. I would have been wiser just doing adequate low cost maintenance. I would have had an identical outcome.
 
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Kirkland/Super Tech Synthetic is Dexos 1 Gen 3 approved, and at a 5,000 mile OCI should do equally as well as any other brand.
I like the generous amounts of phosphorous and zinc anti-wear additives in that oil.

When I was younger, I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Amsoil at 4,000 mile OCI with the expensive Mobil 1 oil filters.
It really had no benefit whatsoever. I also over maintained those vehicles by doing a ton of preventative maintenance.

I don't even own those vehicles any more. I would have been wiser just doing adequate low cost maintenance. I would have had an identical outcome.
Great post, I completely agree.
 
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