I am ready to fire up a remanufactured engine, The original engine manual for the 1996 Dodge Dakota 5.2 l 4x4 stared that mopr had an additive for break in, No one I have taked to knows what I am talking about, the remn engine came with a booklet that said to use a break in oil or oil additive. Any Suggestions?
Break in oil?
- Thread starter greg7637
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There is this stuff, though I don't know anything about it, or just how much different it is from any other oil.
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html
I have always fired up the rebuilds with a good dino 10W30. The biggest thing is ensuring moly assembly lube on the cam lobes and bearings and then breaking in the cam by running the engine at about 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes. Pre-lube the engine by spinning the oil pump for a few minutes - don't recall dodge's approach, most of the small-blocks I've done allow you to pre-lube by removing the distributor and powering the oil pump shaft (various fittings, square sockets, extensions, old distributor drives with the gear removed...whatever fits...) with an electric drill to ensure that the first start isn't dry.
That cam step is required by most cam manufacturers anytime you replace the cam/lifters to break them in properly.
I assume it's a new cam in this? I don't recall if you've got roller lifters in that year...they don't need the break in that flat tappet cams do...
In fact, if I were doing a rebuild for someone else, I would do the pre-lube and cam break in to ensure that it's been done correctly in order to warranty the work...any chance they already did those steps?
I haven't heard of a break-in additive...but I am sure some other BITOGer has...
That cam step is required by most cam manufacturers anytime you replace the cam/lifters to break them in properly.
I assume it's a new cam in this? I don't recall if you've got roller lifters in that year...they don't need the break in that flat tappet cams do...
In fact, if I were doing a rebuild for someone else, I would do the pre-lube and cam break in to ensure that it's been done correctly in order to warranty the work...any chance they already did those steps?
I haven't heard of a break-in additive...but I am sure some other BITOGer has...
Thanks for the info, Roller cams in the reman, but if they ahd done the breakin would they recommend a break in oil additive?
Thank you for the come back, I have seen the royal purple ads, just dont know what is the best option! Some else mentioned Lucas break in additive but from reading some of the boards I dont know if I want to go that way, I had also used the lucas oil additive in my old engine and the main bearing went out due to sludge build up, but I dont know what caused the build up
Originally Posted By: greg7637
Thanks for the info, Roller cams in the reman, but if they ahd done the breakin would they recommend a break in oil additive?
Yeah - they probably would...the 20 minute mid RPM run breaks in a cam to the lifters on a flat-tappet motor...but the rings, etc. still need a while more to seat. If the rings don't seat, you'll get high oil consumption that will never go away...
It's funny though, that they recommend a break in oil, which according to RP has more ZDDP to reduce wear, while others recommend not using synthetic, because it reduces wear too much!
I think you're OK with a good quality Dino in recommended viscosity. In a rebuild, I am a fan of running it for an hour, change the oil and filter, fill with a good dino again, run it for 500 miles, then go with whatever your permanent fill is going to be.
It's a bit cautious...but rebuilds aren't always as clean or close tolerance as factory engines, so I take the extra step to ensure that only clean oil is circulating in the rebuilt engine...I had over 100K (225K total) on the last rebuild I did (an Olds 350) - and I even re-used the orginal pistons (they mic'd out OK...) with only a cylinder hone needed, and all new rings, bearings, and a new cam and lifters. Heads were re-done with new valves and springs.
And all that engine ever ran on was dino - in a 10W30 or 10W40 (in summer)...and it was an OHV V-8 much like your Dodge...with the exception of the cam and fuel delivery/ignition systems...but internally, it's the same architecture and similar materials...
That said, I would follow the rebuilder's recommendation, so that if there's a problem, you can show that you've complied with the terms of the warranty...
Thanks for the info, Roller cams in the reman, but if they ahd done the breakin would they recommend a break in oil additive?
Yeah - they probably would...the 20 minute mid RPM run breaks in a cam to the lifters on a flat-tappet motor...but the rings, etc. still need a while more to seat. If the rings don't seat, you'll get high oil consumption that will never go away...
It's funny though, that they recommend a break in oil, which according to RP has more ZDDP to reduce wear, while others recommend not using synthetic, because it reduces wear too much!
I think you're OK with a good quality Dino in recommended viscosity. In a rebuild, I am a fan of running it for an hour, change the oil and filter, fill with a good dino again, run it for 500 miles, then go with whatever your permanent fill is going to be.
It's a bit cautious...but rebuilds aren't always as clean or close tolerance as factory engines, so I take the extra step to ensure that only clean oil is circulating in the rebuilt engine...I had over 100K (225K total) on the last rebuild I did (an Olds 350) - and I even re-used the orginal pistons (they mic'd out OK...) with only a cylinder hone needed, and all new rings, bearings, and a new cam and lifters. Heads were re-done with new valves and springs.
And all that engine ever ran on was dino - in a 10W30 or 10W40 (in summer)...and it was an OHV V-8 much like your Dodge...with the exception of the cam and fuel delivery/ignition systems...but internally, it's the same architecture and similar materials...
That said, I would follow the rebuilder's recommendation, so that if there's a problem, you can show that you've complied with the terms of the warranty...
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GM dealers have an oil additive that works well for break ins.
Forgot the exact name.
Forgot the exact name.
Originally Posted By: greg7637
I am ready to fire up a remanufactured engine, The original engine manual for the 1996 Dodge Dakota 5.2 l 4x4 stared that mopr had an additive for break in, No one I have taked to knows what I am talking about, the remn engine came with a booklet that said to use a break in oil or oil additive. Any Suggestions?
I'd PM one of the oil sponsor reps on this board and get a straight answer from them. Lot of your time/cash involved on this rebuild to overlook something that is directly called for.
They know their products and the competition as well. They will be frank in a private setting moreso than in a public forum.
I am ready to fire up a remanufactured engine, The original engine manual for the 1996 Dodge Dakota 5.2 l 4x4 stared that mopr had an additive for break in, No one I have taked to knows what I am talking about, the remn engine came with a booklet that said to use a break in oil or oil additive. Any Suggestions?
I'd PM one of the oil sponsor reps on this board and get a straight answer from them. Lot of your time/cash involved on this rebuild to overlook something that is directly called for.
They know their products and the competition as well. They will be frank in a private setting moreso than in a public forum.
The only brake-in issues for you are the rings. With a roller cam, it isn't an issue. If modern rings and bore finishes were used, which they likely were, you don't need anything special there either, IMO and a syn or mineral would be fine. Other than a shorter OCI to get out the break-in materials, nothing special is needed. A break-in additive, or oil, wouldn't hurt, of course, but it won't help and I don't think, pay for itself. You could use a 10W30 HEDO, like Rotella-T Triple Protection or T5 semi-syn, as the first fill. Both have about double the ZDDP of a SM gas engine oil so they would cover you without any additional expense.
The GM additive is called EOS, I believe and contains a ton of ZDDP.
GM EOS on Google Shopping
that link should help.
GM EOS on Google Shopping
that link should help.
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Doesn't this engine have roller lifters? If it does you don't need any extra ZDDP for break in.
According to Marshall, they recommend the following procedure for their "Rebuilt" long blocks:
http://info.rockauto.com/Marshall/PremiumEngineWarrantySM104rev03-08.pdf
Quote:
Break-in Procedures
Because of the manufacturing techniques and the quality of products used in Marshall Engines, very few special
requirements apply to break-in, however the following is recommended:
1. Use grade and viscosity of motor oil recommended by original engine manufacturer.
2. Do not use synthetic or non-detergent oils.
3. Avoid Lugging.
4. Avoid extended speed in excess of 55 mph for the first 500 miles.
5. Do not allow engine to overheat.
Maintenance
Readjust valves after bringing engine to operating temperature the first time.
Retorque head-bolts after bringing engine to operating temperature the first time.
Change oil and filter and check coolant levels after 500 miles.
Carefully monitor oil and coolant levels for first 2,000 miles.
Keep an accurate record of all services performed.
But yea, it's odd, I never heard of "break in oil" until I was introduced to Royal Purple
http://info.rockauto.com/Marshall/PremiumEngineWarrantySM104rev03-08.pdf
Quote:
Break-in Procedures
Because of the manufacturing techniques and the quality of products used in Marshall Engines, very few special
requirements apply to break-in, however the following is recommended:
1. Use grade and viscosity of motor oil recommended by original engine manufacturer.
2. Do not use synthetic or non-detergent oils.
3. Avoid Lugging.
4. Avoid extended speed in excess of 55 mph for the first 500 miles.
5. Do not allow engine to overheat.
Maintenance
Readjust valves after bringing engine to operating temperature the first time.
Retorque head-bolts after bringing engine to operating temperature the first time.
Change oil and filter and check coolant levels after 500 miles.
Carefully monitor oil and coolant levels for first 2,000 miles.
Keep an accurate record of all services performed.
But yea, it's odd, I never heard of "break in oil" until I was introduced to Royal Purple
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