Since this poster is spanking new, maybe clarifying a few things:
1. Your oil needs additives, your engine needs additives. Oil is an engineered product and additives are what makes the oil work at various temperatures, what provide cold flow ability, what allow contaminants to be held in suspension. When you buy oil, you cannot get additional utility by adding more "oil" and thereby having fewer "additives." If you are buying "oil," as a modern-day consumer, it is more correct to think of the oil as one item that is comprises base oils, and additives. You need your additives.
2. The engine in question operates at low RPM and generally speaking in an unstressed situation in this application. (Correct me if you are towing heavy equipment regularly). I would look it up, but I am thinking that your sump holds eight plus quarts. Even if you are going for incredibly frequent OCI's, 5,000 miles would be an absolute minimum.
3. SuperTech oil is great stuff, but assuredly not for the reasons that you mention. Supertech from WalMart, Amazon Basics - if still available, and Kirkland synthetic all come from the same blender (generally as that could vary) and always bring a very solid oil, comparable to QS full synthetic, Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline and many other "cheaper" synthetics. Kirkland Costco has a sale and will sell you two jugs for approx. $30 a few times a year. That's $15 for five quarts. The very similar Quaker State Full Syn is usually $22-23 on Walmart. That is what Supertech oil is all about. It's also always available in as much time as it takes to drive to Walmart.
I appreciate the impetus to provide excellent maintenance to this very capable vehicle, and respect the thought about oil, but the OP lays bear some pretty big gaps in knowledge that won't help in understanding.... I will admit that there will never, ever be an issue with using Supertech, in-spec, on 3,000 Intervals.