BEST CHOICES FOR HYUNDAI SANTA FE THETA II 2.4 GDI

Yeah from all the Facebook groups and Hyundai/Kia forums that I follow, it really appears Hyundai got a handle on the issue starting with 2017 models. I’ve only read of a few blown 2017 models, and I have yet to hear of a 2018 or newer have a blown engine. With 2017 and 2018’s being 4 and 3 years old now respectively, people would surely be complaining online by now if their engines have blown.

good news is that they are taking care of their customers. So far I've experienced the best customer service of any cars. Even before the lawsuit, they were replacing engines ...
 
The Theta II 2.4 Recommends 5W-20 actually. But allows for 5W-30/10W-30. I use both 5W-20/5W-30 and I use synthetic every time.
*Most owners of the Theta II 2.4L non - turbo Hyundai / Kia engines have gravitated to using synthetic 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 rated (or newer spec.) synthetic oil with a good quality oil filter and a 5,000 mile OCI max OCI . The rod bearings are suspect in this engine plus with fuel dilution often present you are afforded with a bit pf an insurance policy for the oil shearing down a grade by using 5W30 synthetic . This is the routine I use with my '17 Sonata 2.4L Theta II and at 36K miles the engine appears happy with the choice . **Two really good synthetic oils for the 2.4 L Theta II are : 1) Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W30 and 2) Quaker State Ultimate Durability synthetic 5W30 oils (in that order) ... Both are fantastic synthetic oils with great add packs providing lower NOACK oils with low ash , low amount of viscosity improvement adders . Both oils contain Titanium and other additional wear additives (cleaning as well) for very low wear and excellent engine hygiene (what you want in a engine with suspect rod bearing issues) .
 
The Theta II 2.4 Recommends 5W-20 actually. But allows for 5W-30/10W-30. I use both 5W-20/5W-30 and I use synthetic every time.
*Another CAFE based 5W20 oil suggestion by the Hyundai / Kia factories ... If you go to a Hyundai / Kia dealer for an oil change you will not get 5W20 weight oil - instead you will get 5W30 weight oil to help with rod bearing issues (although Hyundai and Kia both say it is for "streamlining oil inventory)" .
 
*Most owners of the Theta II 2.4L non - turbo Hyundai / Kia engines have gravitated to using synthetic 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 rated (or newer spec.) synthetic oil with a good quality oil filter and a 5,000 mile OCI max OCI . The rod bearings are suspect in this engine plus with fuel dilution often present you are afforded with a bit pf an insurance policy for the oil shearing down a grade by using 5W30 synthetic . This is the routine I use with my '17 Sonata 2.4L Theta II and at 36K miles the engine appears happy with the choice . **Two really good synthetic oils for the 2.4 L Theta II are : 1) Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W30 and 2) Quaker State Ultimate Durability synthetic 5W30 oils (in that order) ... Both are fantastic synthetic oils with great add packs providing lower NOACK oils with low ash , low amount of viscosity improvement adders . Both oils contain Titanium and other additional wear additives (cleaning as well) for very low wear and excellent engine hygiene (what you want in a engine with suspect rod bearing issues) .
You nailed it with this comment. Please allow me to add Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30 to that list with a low amount of VI and a very high flash point of around 240~245 celsius (ASTM 93). Based on this I assume that the NOACK value is below 10.
 
I would use PP 5W-30 and the OE filter (great quality and correct pressure relief) and change at 5,000 miles OCI.
Had a 2013 Sonata 2.4L until it was totaled.
*While the OEM filter is a quality construction with the most ideal pressure relief - the filter media is not as good or robust as the wire framed Fram Ultra (as an example) filter media ... Still , for severe schedule duty the OEM filter is probably good enough .
 
Agreed, that or you can get Castrol Edge 5w30 LL on line at Walmart for cheap. Both of those are thick Euro 5w30s and super clean oils, good choice since Hyundai allows 5w30 in the manual. I would still change at 5k on a Hyundai though.
*How well do these Euro oils play with higher American sulfated gas levels ?
 
*How well do these Euro oils play with higher American sulfated gas levels ?
The full SAPS Euro oils play really well with them as the additives won't be depleted as fast and TBN retention is really. That's not to say that top tier ILSAC oils are bad.

*While the OEM filter is a quality construction with the most ideal pressure relief - the filter media is not as good or robust as the wire framed Fram Ultra (as an example) filter media ... Still , for severe schedule duty the OEM filter is probably good enough .

The PBL14461 is twice as big as the OEM Hyundai filter and it's built like a tank. I like it a lot.
 
The full SAPS Euro oils play really well with them as the additives won't be depleted as fast and TBN retention is really. That's not to say that top tier ILSAC oils are bad.



The PBL14461 is twice as big as the OEM Hyundai filter and it's built like a tank. I like it a lot.
*Are key characteristics the same with the PBL14461 versus Hyundai OEM filter such as oil pressure relief vale setting , flow rate , etc. ? I have no current issues with FRAM Ultra #9688 that I am aware of .
 
*While the OEM filter is a quality construction with the most ideal pressure relief - the filter media is not as good or robust as the wire framed Fram Ultra (as an example) filter media ... Still , for severe schedule duty the OEM filter is probably good enough .
Chris. . . . do you have the filtering specs for the OEM filter? If so, I'd like to see them. Your source that they have inferior filtering ability?
 
I've seen a few comments in this thread that the 2.4L H/K engines have excess fuel dilution--that has NOT been my experience (backed up with UOAs). I maintain a 2.0L TGDI and 2.4L N/A engines, with UOAs on both. In both engines, only trace amounts of fuel have been detected. Both of these engines are heavily short-tripped and idle a lot in the winter (warming up), which should put them at risk for fuel dilution, yet I'm not seeing it. I get the feeling that fuel dilution in the Hyundai engines seem to be more myth than reality.
 
I've seen plenty with fuel dilution as high as 5%. So, driving style/location/weather could be determining factors.
Sonata/Optima being lighter than a SantaFe would not need to be driven as aggressively for equivalent performance. For example, when I drove the SantaFe 2.4, it needed a seriously heavier foot than a Sonata with the same powertrain to deal with the same traffic patterns. That alone could warm 'er up quicker and enough to skew results some and cook off some fuel, or prevent build up.
 
I've seen plenty with fuel dilution as high as 5%. So, driving style/location/weather could be determining factors.
Sonata/Optima being lighter than a SantaFe would not need to be driven as aggressively for equivalent performance. For example, when I drove the SantaFe 2.4, it needed a seriously heavier foot than a Sonata with the same powertrain to deal with the same traffic patterns. That alone could warm 'er up quicker and enough to skew results some and cook off some fuel, or prevent build up.
Why Hyundai programs all their engines to run rich is beyond me. I get why they do it for Turbo GDI engines, and that's so people can run cheap gasoline in them, but the rest of them, I don't know. The 3.3L V6 GDI isn't even a high compression engine, but it dilutes oil with fuel like there is no tomorrow. I guess they're built to blow, lol.
 
*Are key characteristics the same with the PBL14461 versus Hyundai OEM filter such as oil pressure relief vale setting , flow rate , etc. ? I have no current issues with FRAM Ultra #9688 that I am aware of .

In Ascent Filtration Testing's recent demonstration the subject Fram Ultra and Purolator Boss had a near identical flow rate, I would submit to you that the PBL14461 and comparable Fram Ultra offering (9688 or 3593a) would be similar as well in flow rate.

PBL14461 bypass setting is 12-18, Fram Ultra XG9688 and XG3593a are both 13psi so a near dead heat there as well.

 
In Ascent Filtration Testing's recent demonstration the subject Fram Ultra and Purolator Boss had a near identical flow rate, I would submit to you that the PBL14461 and comparable Fram Ultra offering (9688 or 3593a) would be similar as well in flow rate.

PBL14461 bypass setting is 12-18, Fram Ultra XG9688 and XG3593a are both 13psi so a near dead heat there as well.


What about small particle filtration at 20 microns? The Purolator BOSS is a pretty big mystery in that regard. I use these filters though (look at my signature) because they're built like tanks. Otherwise, the spun micro-glass in the FRAM ULTRA is far superior to the plastic media in the Purolator BOSS.
 
What about small particle filtration at 20 microns? The Purolator BOSS is a pretty big mystery in that regard. I use these filters though (look at my signature) because they're built like tanks. Otherwise, the spun micro-glass in the FRAM ULTRA is far superior to the plastic media in the Purolator BOSS.


Where do you get the idea that the media in the Boss filters is plastic?
 
Okay, I'm sorry, I'll try to be more scientific about it: polyurethane.



That’s not correct either. Here is an excerpt from Purolator.

“PurolatorBOSS® Premium Oil Filters are the next generation in oil filtration, delivering maximum engine protection. PurolatorBOSS features exclusive SmartFUSION Technology™ with fully integrated, polymer reinforced filter media for extended mileage and performance. It's engineered to work well with all oil types and is the ideal match for full synthetic oils and synthetic blends.”

Polymer reinforced is not polyurethane nor is it plastic.

 
That’s not correct either. Here is an excerpt from Purolator.

“PurolatorBOSS® Premium Oil Filters are the next generation in oil filtration, delivering maximum engine protection. PurolatorBOSS features exclusive SmartFUSION Technology™ with fully integrated, polymer reinforced filter media for extended mileage and performance. It's engineered to work well with all oil types and is the ideal match for full synthetic oils and synthetic blends.”

Polymer reinforced is not polyurethane nor is it plastic.

I'm sorry, I got them mixed up polyester with polyurethane when I remembered the following video that I saw a while back. The media is polyester, so still a form of plastic:

 
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