Best Readily Available 5W30 Synthetic for GDI Engines ?

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By now you would think there would be enough research , real life examinations , etc. to determine best readily available 5W30 synthetic oils to combat intake valve deposits which are still an issue with GDI engines . My Hyundai 2017 2.4L (non - turbo) GDI engine recommends 5W20 on the oil cap (absolutely because of CAFE) and now recommends 5W30 for this engine . I bounce between : M1 5W30 EP , Valvoline Advanced & EP 5W30 and even GSUD all in 5W30 5W30 all from my past SN+ , GF5 , D1 / Gen 2 synthetic oil stash running each no more than a 5K mile / 6 month OCI . What (if anything) do newer GF6 / SP D1 / Gen 3 synthetic 5W30 oils address with respect to GDI engines ?
 
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What (if anything) do newer GF6 / SP D1 / Gen 3 synthetic 5W30 oils address with respect to GDI engines ?

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More good info is available here.
 
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There are no oils that can significantly mitigate the inherent flaws of GDI engines. Based on the discussions in the past on this topic, it's whole oil and not vapors coming in contact with the valves, so low Noack isn't necessarily a sure bet. I think oils with top notch base oils that are less prone to coking and have strong oxidation resistance are the only things I can think of. All of the oils you mentioned are good at that.

I'm curious if esters can help. HPL states they can and Valvoline Modern Engine was unique in that it possibly contained some special ester.
 
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prolly lots of factors in carbon deposits + FEW want to pay the cost of higher quality oils with costly esters etc!!
 
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The land of USA-made Subies!
By now you would think there would be enough research , real life examinations , etc. to determine best readily available 5W30 synthetic oils to combat intake valve deposits which are still an issue with GDI engines . My Hyundai 2017 2.4L (non - turbo) GDI engine recommends 5W20 on the oil cap (absolutely because of CAFE) and now recommends 5W30 for this engine . I bounce between : M1 5W30 EP , Valvoline Advanced & EP 5W30 and even GSUD all in 5W30 5W30 all from my past SN+ , GF5 , D1 / Gen 2 synthetic oil stash running each no more than a 5K mile / 6 month OCI . What (if anything) do newer GF6 / SP D1 / Gen 3 synthetic 5W30 oils address with respect to GDI engines ?
HPL SuperCar. Shipped same day on my order, will be here tomorrow. You asked. 😎
 
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By now you would think there would be enough research , real life examinations , etc. to determine best readily available 5W30 synthetic oils to combat intake valve deposits which are still an issue with GDI engines . My Hyundai 2017 2.4L (non - turbo) GDI engine recommends 5W20 on the oil cap (absolutely because of CAFE) and now recommends 5W30 for this engine . I bounce between : M1 5W30 EP , Valvoline Advanced & EP 5W30 and even GSUD all in 5W30 5W30 all from my past SN+ , GF5 , D1 / Gen 2 synthetic oil stash running each no more than a 5K mile / 6 month OCI . What (if anything) do newer GF6 / SP D1 / Gen 3 synthetic 5W30 oils address with respect to GDI engines ?
PP 5w30
 
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I say run QSFS 5w30. Add a catch can. Take the money you will save NOT buying HPL and do a IVD cleaning every 5-10,000 miles.
I like the STP one. Can do it by yourself.
That's about all you can do with a GDI only engine.....which I have too. 🙄
 
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You’re doing everything right. D1G2 or G3 oils are more than adequate for US GDI or t-GDI engines and are generally what I prefer. Having said that, as others alluded to, even doing the “right” thing won’t overcome bad engineering.
 
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It does seem that a catch can is the number one thing to help any DI engine intake valves.
Catch can is useless until their is a valid study to prove otherwise. The PDF below is worth reading. There hasn't been anything to contradict it.
Waiting on SAE papers that contradict the below. Waiting on ANY catchcan company to show ANY testing of their products. Contents of catch can is not an issue. Oil age is!



Test result : Effect of blow by gas

By passing the positive crankcase ventilation lines
Blowby gas port at the intake port was sealed by caps
No improvement in IVD formation
Blowby gas is considered less important factor in carbon deposit formation
Positive crankcase ventilation(Blowby) was not related to carbon deposit formation
 
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My daughters 2.4 in her Sportage started running really rough at 80,000 miles. It would also hesitate really bad when hitting the accelerator. She was convinced it was the transmission. I did a spray can of the CRC DI intake valve cleaner and changed the spark plugs. After that it runs great again. I also changed the PCV valve. It does use a little oil, but it’s down to about 1 quart every 3-4k now.
 
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Besides changing the oil at 3000 miles the other thing is the plugs. I would change both the plugs and the coils at 50,000 miles. I do this by myself and got Motorcraft parts off of RockAuto.
 
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My daughters 2.4 in her Sportage started running really rough at 80,000 miles. It would also hesitate really bad when hitting the accelerator. She was convinced it was the transmission. I did a spray can of the CRC DI intake valve cleaner and changed the spark plugs. After that it runs great again. I also changed the PCV valve. It does use a little oil, but it’s down to about 1 quart every 3-4k now.
That's the GDI monster. Change at 5k and maybe use the HPL 30EC. Prior to that, clean the throttle body with a pea based cleaned and a pea based fuel ⛽ additive.
 
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My daughters 2.4 in her Sportage started running really rough at 80,000 miles. It would also hesitate really bad when hitting the accelerator. She was convinced it was the transmission. I did a spray can of the CRC DI intake valve cleaner and changed the spark plugs. After that it runs great again. I also changed the PCV valve. It does use a little oil, but it’s down to about 1 quart every 3-4k now.
So was it the plugs or IVD which were causing running issues?
 
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