ooops...
Are synthetics really worth the extra bucks?
- Thread starter damanwitdaplan
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Been thinking this over awhile. We did switch to Shell gas from Sam's Club gas about the time I went M1 but I really cannot remember exactly when. Maybe breaking in with the GTX accounts for a lower average too? That's about as far as I can take it. If anything the wife probably pushed the speed limit from 75 to more like 80-85 as she got used to the drive. (Her drive times home dropped...) Maybe it was more fuel efficient at a slightly higher speed? I even thought maybe I rounded down to 31 in my "memory" and rounded up from 32.6 or 8 or something....but in that case I still know and believe there was at least 1 to 1.5 better mpg's. I believe my posts going back a few years state a MPG increase. That's about as honest as I can be as a witness against myself.
But, despite what I think about MPG oncrease...are you saying there are no fuel savings that can be attributed to using a synthetic oil?
so how about a synthetic blend...still cheap but u get the best of both worlds...anyone know what the best blend out there is?
I dont do blends, because a pan full of oil is only as good as its weakest molecule. I think it's a waste, even if it is cheaper.
I believe I saw some super cheap TropArtic synth blend for $1.49/qt at wal-mart. Wally-world only had like 2 quarts of that stuff left. Probably sold pretty fast. Talk about cheap when you are used to $6/qt for Amsoil/M1/GC.
If I had to do everything all over again I'd go with conventional or an above blend so I could change my oil every 3,000 mi and not feel bad.
If $$$ is an issue - What about Wally'World's SuperTech full synthetic - 5 quarts for $14. Still, for not much more - PP for $18 and Mobil 1 for $23.
I've recorded a good 1-2mpg increase with synthetic oil and synthetic in the transmission (manual). Still, with all the variables (wind direction, gas, tire psi, traffic) - it is pretty hard to be certain about one's MPG.
If I had to do everything all over again I'd go with conventional or an above blend so I could change my oil every 3,000 mi and not feel bad.
If $$$ is an issue - What about Wally'World's SuperTech full synthetic - 5 quarts for $14. Still, for not much more - PP for $18 and Mobil 1 for $23.
I've recorded a good 1-2mpg increase with synthetic oil and synthetic in the transmission (manual). Still, with all the variables (wind direction, gas, tire psi, traffic) - it is pretty hard to be certain about one's MPG.
thought about the cheap walfart supertech syn but i read its TBN aint so hot. never toy with TBN.
a name brand blend like motorcraft or mobil seems to fit the bill even though its priced similarly to ST
CBD...dino still has its strongpoints as evidenced by all the uoa's out there on havoline and castrol gtx. nothing new there...just ask Bill of Utah.
lastly...toying with using delo 400 in my benz since 15w-40 is close enough to 10w-40 specified for the engine. cost less than 2 greenbacks at regular price at AA and has quite a reputation with truckers.
anybody think thats a better idea than the synthetic blends?
i'm obsessed...
but whatever...we all are if we're on Bitog!!
a name brand blend like motorcraft or mobil seems to fit the bill even though its priced similarly to ST
CBD...dino still has its strongpoints as evidenced by all the uoa's out there on havoline and castrol gtx. nothing new there...just ask Bill of Utah.
lastly...toying with using delo 400 in my benz since 15w-40 is close enough to 10w-40 specified for the engine. cost less than 2 greenbacks at regular price at AA and has quite a reputation with truckers.
anybody think thats a better idea than the synthetic blends?
i'm obsessed...
Theres nothing wrong with walmart synthetic, if they made it in 5w-20 i'd use it in a second. TBN isnt the best way to judge an oil because it can deplete at different rates, depending on additives. What I mean is that just because two oils say they have a tbn of 8, that doesn't mean that they'll both deplete at the same rate. When i first joined bitog, starting tbn was a big deal to me. Now i only care about what the tbn is after the oil has been used. FWIW of course..
i guess what i'm really asking is...between a synthetic blend (motorcraft for example), walmart synthetic and delo 400 which would u pick? all cheap, with proven performance and good uoa's
and please, none of the "anyone of them will do" answers!
and please, none of the "anyone of them will do" answers!
My experiences and participation on this board over the last couple of years have given me a more 'holistic' view of this issue and car maintenance in general.
I am a slave to logical consistency for the most part. So, if I'm going to run a syn oil supposedly to get that 'extra peace of mind', a spotless engine at 200K or whatever, then I'm going to feel the need to do everything else more often and more expensively - no point in having a pristine engine in a tired car, right? So, 105K mile sparkplugs, nope. 120K mile/10 year coolant, sorry. 60K/4yr or more transmission fluid, nice try. 3 years on brake fluid, better make it two. Power Steering Fluid, definitely suck it out. Wiper blades, yeah they're still good but better swap em out. Worry about rust. Worry about upholstery. Worry about fuel system issues. Worry about batteries. Worry worry.
It's not 'cheap insurance' anymore, from a financial or psychological standpoint, is it?
So, I change my regular oil and do other maintenance per the OLM (or 2x per year on the CRV, up to 10K per change). I fix stuff as soon as I notice a problem. I inspect under the hood and check the tires every weekend. I don't drive like a knucklehead. I'm surely ahead of at least 90% of the motoring public.
If I drove a LOT of miles (more than 20K/yr), I'd consider the M1 EP 5W-20 when it comes out, but only for the convenience/pollution reduction reason. As it stands, I average 12K a year or less, so I'm doing 1.5 - 2 changes per year with Motorcraft 5W-20. A 'long drain' syn limited to 1 year doesn't buy me much in my situation.
I am a slave to logical consistency for the most part. So, if I'm going to run a syn oil supposedly to get that 'extra peace of mind', a spotless engine at 200K or whatever, then I'm going to feel the need to do everything else more often and more expensively - no point in having a pristine engine in a tired car, right? So, 105K mile sparkplugs, nope. 120K mile/10 year coolant, sorry. 60K/4yr or more transmission fluid, nice try. 3 years on brake fluid, better make it two. Power Steering Fluid, definitely suck it out. Wiper blades, yeah they're still good but better swap em out. Worry about rust. Worry about upholstery. Worry about fuel system issues. Worry about batteries. Worry worry.
It's not 'cheap insurance' anymore, from a financial or psychological standpoint, is it?
So, I change my regular oil and do other maintenance per the OLM (or 2x per year on the CRV, up to 10K per change). I fix stuff as soon as I notice a problem. I inspect under the hood and check the tires every weekend. I don't drive like a knucklehead. I'm surely ahead of at least 90% of the motoring public.
If I drove a LOT of miles (more than 20K/yr), I'd consider the M1 EP 5W-20 when it comes out, but only for the convenience/pollution reduction reason. As it stands, I average 12K a year or less, so I'm doing 1.5 - 2 changes per year with Motorcraft 5W-20. A 'long drain' syn limited to 1 year doesn't buy me much in my situation.
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i guess what i'm really asking is...between a synthetic blend (motorcraft for example), walmart synthetic and delo 400 which would u pick? all cheap, with proven performance and good uoa's
and please, none of the "anyone of them will do" answers!
Walmart synthetic, hands down. It has shown to produce some very, very impressive uoa's this past year. HDEO's have a beefier add pack, but that isn't always a good thing. I believe it can cause damage to your cat, deposits on your spark plugs, and i'm probably forgetting a few things. Not to mention, as long as you stick to a reasonable oci, there really is no reason to use a hdeo in a passenger car in my opinion.
If you do oil changes for family like I do and hate the thought of them going to grimmy lube, synthetics are worth it. Let's face it most people don't obsess about oil changes like we do
(It's a shocker I know.) It gives me piece of mind knowing that if they are a little, or a lot, slow about the OCI. Chances are the Engine won't be affected as much as if you were doing a dino. That's my 2 cents.
ST is excellent oil. I've used it. I also have gotten (repeat that in BOLD) GOTTEN better gas mileage at any time in any driving condition with synthetic oil than with conventional. I told the guys once at AZ... if you gave me your oil, for free and synthetic was 6.00 a quart, given I get X% better gas mileage, I would buy the synthetic and you can keep the free oil. Use it for a chainsaw blade.. whatever.
Nothing at all wrong with Wal-Mart Super Tech Synthetic.. I do think it comes from Nebraska, BTW.
Nothing at all wrong with Wal-Mart Super Tech Synthetic.. I do think it comes from Nebraska, BTW.
Just went to Walmart, the 5 quart jug for Mobil 1 EP 5w30 cost me $30.00. This same oil last year was around $23. What the heck is going on??? I am contemplating PP.
That's only $6 a quart...
Mobil needs to make some $$
How long do you run the oil?
PP is Group III they say, like Castrol Syntec.
Take care, Bill
Quote:
That's only $6 a quart...
Mobil needs to make some $$
How long do you run the oil?
PP is Group III they say, like Castrol Syntec.
Take care, Bill
(flame suit on) I only keep it for 5000 miles due to warranty reasons. Yes PP is group III but i dont think i have seen 1 bad uoa with this oil. The more i read up on PP, the more it impresses me and to boot it can be had for $20.
What is this based this on? If this were true it wouldn't do any good to ever change your oil since a half quart of used up worn out weak oil remains in the engine...
It's no different than drinking bottled water for medical reasons, to avoid all the chemicals and ________ in tap water...if you decide to 'save money' and mix your expensive bottled water 50/50 with tap water, you've done yourself no good. You're still consuming ________.
Would you mix a $200 bottle of wine with a bottle of Boones Farm to save money? If you would, then you will never understand my point of view.
If the oil gurus on this board are correct and full synthetic oil is 'good' for 10K+ miles and I'm changing mine well before that, then it stands to reason that I have no 'worn out, weak oil' remaining in my engine after an oil change.
Would you mix a $200 bottle of wine with a bottle of Boones Farm to save money? If you would, then you will never understand my point of view.
If the oil gurus on this board are correct and full synthetic oil is 'good' for 10K+ miles and I'm changing mine well before that, then it stands to reason that I have no 'worn out, weak oil' remaining in my engine after an oil change.
So it's just your opinion based on your views on wine and water?
What about the user who "saves money" by running their synthetic oil to a reasonable interval of say 10K miles. (or say conventional to 5K miles) Should they just not bother changing since "a pan full of oil is only as good as its weakest molecule..."?
What about the user who "saves money" by running their synthetic oil to a reasonable interval of say 10K miles. (or say conventional to 5K miles) Should they just not bother changing since "a pan full of oil is only as good as its weakest molecule..."?
in the end i do think that pouring in fresh engine oil more often as u do with dino must keep the engine cleaner and with less contaminants. one oil change a year must result in "dirtier" oil. i don't mean the particle count per se but i'm speaking of chemical contaminants/oil degradation...
from personal experience, i owned a brand new civic for 9 years and ran nothing but amsoil oil and filters. i stuck to the recommendation of an oci of 25k or one year and did a filter change every 6 months...and what do u think happened? it started burning a quart of oil a week at only 120k and needed a rebuild. big disappointment for my first new car and one with a bullet-proof reputation for reliability at that.
i have never done long oci's since with no regrets.
from personal experience, i owned a brand new civic for 9 years and ran nothing but amsoil oil and filters. i stuck to the recommendation of an oci of 25k or one year and did a filter change every 6 months...and what do u think happened? it started burning a quart of oil a week at only 120k and needed a rebuild. big disappointment for my first new car and one with a bullet-proof reputation for reliability at that.
i have never done long oci's since with no regrets.
Quote:
That's only $6 a quart...
Mobil needs to make some $$
How long do you run the oil?
PP is Group III they say, like Castrol Syntec.
Take care, Bill
Mobil1 EP is good for 15,000 miles.
PP is indeed Group III, but it's cheaper than SYNTEC, especially with the PepBoys rebate bringing it to $2 a quart...
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