So the Motul X-clean EFE should be fine in my '21 Veloster N or should I go out of the way to find an oil that has the API SP spec from the manual?
API ratings in relation to Dexos2?
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Hyundai are sticklers for following the manual in regards to their 10 year warranty FYI
Amsoil SS meets specs only because Amsoil says it does. It does NOT however, actually have licenses for those specifications, because Amsoil does not pay for that certification.
While similar, and I think you should be fine with Amsoil, you open a whole can of worms here saying “Amsoil meets specs”.
The key factor will be the calcium levels as to whether it will meet the LSPI requirements. SN+ and SP have calcium levels reduced to around 5 or 6 hundred ppm whereas SN oils typically had higher levels.
According to this VOA I found in a different thread, the EFE oil has quite high calcium. So if LSPI is important I would steer clear of this oil
According to this VOA I found in a different thread, the EFE oil has quite high calcium. So if LSPI is important I would steer clear of this oil
So how do I know what oil actually meets specs? I'll probably switch away from the Motul because of the high calcium in the above post but I'd be switching to Amsoil SS because it says it meets the SP spec and for warranty purposes it's probably best to stay as close to recommendation.Amsoil SS meets specs only because Amsoil says it does. It does NOT however, actually have licenses for those specifications, because Amsoil does not pay for that certification.
While similar, and I think you should be fine with Amsoil, you open a whole can of worms here saying “Amsoil meets specs”.
Another oil I was looking at was M1 extended performance but I'm not sure if it's actually any good as I'm still wrapping my head around everything.
I'm assuming based on what I've seen on YouTube and in wear tests Amsoil SS is a great oil?
We only have the 5 year up here in Canada, I contacted the dealer and they said motul was fine warranty wise but you're right that I'm probably better safe than sorry when all is said and done.
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To avoid LSPI, use premium top tier fuel. Consider a yearly fuel treatment to clean anything not addressed with your fuel brands.
To avoid LSPI, use a safe and sane shorter than normal oil change interval, or the manual's severe maintenance service interval.
If GDI only, learn how to do regular yearly or 10k-15k mile intake valve cleanings.
If in budget, get a real FMIC.
I'd wager that the oil selection is less of an issue since automaker tuning seemed to be the main problem which was addressed by most automakers, followed owner's foolish neglect which will never be addressed.
What engine family? If theta-2, use ANY 5w40. It'll need all the HTHS help it can get and LSPI isn't the issue.
To avoid LSPI, use a safe and sane shorter than normal oil change interval, or the manual's severe maintenance service interval.
If GDI only, learn how to do regular yearly or 10k-15k mile intake valve cleanings.
If in budget, get a real FMIC.
I'd wager that the oil selection is less of an issue since automaker tuning seemed to be the main problem which was addressed by most automakers, followed owner's foolish neglect which will never be addressed.
What engine family? If theta-2, use ANY 5w40. It'll need all the HTHS help it can get and LSPI isn't the issue.
I only run the highest octane Shell v power available and I change the oil before 5000 miles.
The N Cars use a variation of the Theta 2 but with very little in common
Probing Hyundai's Veloster N Performance Powertrain
Get an inside look at the heart of Hyundai's Veloster N, the turbocharged Theta II-i engine.
MB229.52 is your key here! API is absolute BS that does LSPI testing on an engine that actually doesn’t have LSPI issues.
All those Euro approvals are MUCH more stringent than anything API.
Since your manual says C2, just make sure you get something like EFE for warranty purposes. But shoot for MB229.52, VW504.00/507.00, BMW LL04.
Other good option is Mobil1 ESP 0/5W30.
Yeah sounds like the X-Clean EFE one been using works since it's OEM APPROVALS are BMW LL-04, MERCEDES-BENZ MB-APPROVAL 229.52, OPEL VAUXHALL OV 040 1547 - D30, VW 505 00 505 01 and Dexos2
I've also seen a few UOA of it in the VN engine and it seems to hold up well and doesn't shear.
Generally I like C2/3 oils that have VW504.00/507.00 as that specification is extremely stringent.
Is that engine prone to LSPI or you just worry?
There hasn't been any real information about LSPI or complaints about it on any N forums/groups I'm on and it's relatively low compression (9.5:1) but being direct injection is still something I'm worried about.
Do you have an oil in mind to replace the Motul X-clean EFE 5w30? I've been running it since 40km (factory fill is a garbage synthetic blend that shears extremely quickly according to Blackstone) but all the new information is a lot to take in and making it hard to choose an oil
better is the enemy of good enough which means you might as well just buy some off the shelf oil that actually meets the specs and can back them up in writing.Amsoil SS meets specs only because Amsoil says it does. It does NOT however, actually have licenses for those specifications, because Amsoil does not pay for that certification.
While similar, and I think you should be fine with Amsoil, you open a whole can of worms here saying “Amsoil meets specs”.
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Little in common? Same engineering, same factories, same internal suppliers, same same same... It has nothing in common with the previous theta2's except everything. Motortrend is so useless.
4999 is before 5000 and means nothing. Your goal should be ~3000 miles as a start. That is how you'll prevent LSPI, reduce IV deposits, and prevent excessive oil consumption from coked up piston rings and grooves.
Consider UOA from a real lab to see the ending viscosity and fuel dilution. This will help pick a starting viscosity of oil.
And, get the best oil filter that'll screw on. The more crud that is filtered, the less that can build up everywhere.
I wrote that wrong, I change it before 5000km not miles. Hard to keep track when everyone is typing miles instead of km
It's also not the same factory, the Theta II we got in the older cars was built in America, the N engine is built in Korea
Either way I'm no closer to deciding what oil to use
It's also not the same factory, the Theta II we got in the older cars was built in America, the N engine is built in Korea
Either way I'm no closer to deciding what oil to use
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5k-6k km is an excellent interval.
Its a Hyundai. Its a theta2. Its a TGDI. .... Any 5w40! I could care less where its built.
Its a Hyundai. Its a theta2. Its a TGDI. .... Any 5w40! I could care less where its built.
Any recommendations for a 5W40? The motul X-Clean EFE only comes in 5w30 and the 5w40 X-clean is C3 not C2 so might have issues with warranty.
I'm having trouble finding group IV+ 5w40 that matches the API SP/ILSAC GF-6 and C2 manual recommendations.
I'm seeing some liquimoly that match it
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If you worry about the manual, then stick with their grade recommendation too
Whatever Hyundai recommends isn't going to save your engine. A recommendation isn't a requirement.
What you use depends on your unknown location. I would take any 5w40 from walmart/napa/autozone/oreilly/carquest/advance and not worry about ANY of the API or ACEA.
Whatever Hyundai recommends isn't going to save your engine. A recommendation isn't a requirement.
What you use depends on your unknown location. I would take any 5w40 from walmart/napa/autozone/oreilly/carquest/advance and not worry about ANY of the API or ACEA.
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