I would say it does, at least in my experience.If any remains eight years down the road when its spark plug time.
I would say it does, at least in my experience.If any remains eight years down the road when its spark plug time.
You're supposed to twist the boots first before trying to pull them straight offThat's what I have noticed. Ungreased boots can get stuck really good on the ceramic spark plug insulator. With the insulator having a film of dielectric grease on it, the boot comes off smoothly and goes on easily. The addition of a thin film of grease will certainly make for a better seal against moisture ingress than the boot alone.
If they are really stuck that will just twist them in half. My Tiguan was assembled without grease on the boots and I had to buy the VW tool to remove the coils. VW issued service information to add the grease to the boots to prevent that from happening in the future.You're supposed to twist the boots first before trying to pull them straight off
Twist until cracks appear all you want. I'm a physically weak specimen! Decrepit even. I'm an old man, get off my back. Im also not a glutton for punishment and am very much into prevention.You're supposed to twist the boots first before trying to pull them straight off
Me too. I weight 125 pounds at most lolI'm a physically weak specimen! Decrepit even. I'm an old man, get off my back.![]()
I weigh only 195 right now. I also have shrunk 1/4" over the past 28 years. I'm basically fading away.Me too. I weight 125 pounds at most lol
I already mentioned fragments of antiseize, metal compounds dropping into combustion chamber, when removing the plug.Why not use it? I hurts absolutely nothing, and adding a little insurance to making them easier to remove is a good thing...you don't want to strip out threads in an aluminum head...
Yeah alittle gravel down the cylinder unlikey to hurt anything.I doubt if the metal in anti seize is going to cause any wear issues if falls into the combustion chamber. Most would be vaporized. Nickle might make it through.
Sure, start comparing it to gravel, rocks, metal shavings and your fears will be validated.Yeah alittle gravel down the cylinder unlikey to hurt anything.![]()
I doubt if the metal in anti seize is going to cause any wear issues if falls into the combustion chamber. Most would be vaporized. Nickle might make it through.
Yeah alittle gravel down the cylinder unlikey to hurt anything.![]()
Agreed. I am not exactly sure why, but for some reason we often think we’re connected online and therefore we know best. Even better than the mfg and engineers who design products. This was really beaten to death on a BMW forum where a member had access to a really expensive torque wrench from work and when plugs broke on the way in, he went as far as calibrating the wrench. Anti seize was the reason.Dielectric grease is an insulator, so that’s a very, very, terrible, horrendous idea.
If you must use it, be sure to adjust your torque target to account for the decreased friction
One has to realize. Using a perfectly operational and calibrated torque wrench, one can go beyond the click with little effort at 90 or 140 ft lbs dry.Came across this in the Denso spark plug manual. Seems like the biggest risk with antiseize is over-tightening. So yeah, I think the use of anti-seize is fine as long as you account for it
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One has to realize. Using a perfectly operational and calibrated torque wrench, one can go beyond the click with little effort at 90 or 140 ft lbs dry.
Now imagine something that’s 17 ft lbs and anti seize is applied. Not too many people own a torque wrench that’s accurate around 10 ft lbs etc. Torque wrenches are only calibtrated down to 20% of the max of the range.
In other words, big opportunity for human error. At least the guy on the bmw forum who snapped plugs using anti seize when not recommended admitted it was his action that caused the damage. At first he blamed the plugs, then the work torque wrench. Why can’t we learn from him, I guess it would be too easy.
As you point out, there are numerous ways to make mistakes. But too much anti-seize and over-torquing fasteners are the fault of the operator.One has to realize. Using a perfectly operational and calibrated torque wrench, one can go beyond the click with little effort at 90 or 140 ft lbs dry.
Now imagine something that’s 17 ft lbs and anti seize is applied. Not too many people own a torque wrench that’s accurate around 10 ft lbs etc. Torque wrenches are only calibtrated down to 20% of the max of the range.
In other words, big opportunity for human error. At least the guy on the bmw forum who snapped plugs using anti seize when not recommended admitted it was his action that caused the damage. At first he blamed the plugs, then the work torque wrench. Why can’t we learn from him, I guess it would be too easy.