Anti-seize for spark plugs

[bdcardinal]

I have asked a Powertrain Engineer for SVT and our Field Service Engineer about this subject and both say that unless it is in the Service Manual, or there is a TSB saying to use it, that it is not to be used.

The TSB for the 3V motors says to use it on the barrel of the spark plug, not the threads.

 

[tom slick]

Ursae has been around here long enough that I'm sure he's seen the regurgitated chatter that comes up anytime the word anti-seize is whispered.

Needless to say, using anti-sieze on spark plugs will cause:
broken sparkplugs
intact spark plugs upon removal
easier plug removal
striping the threads out of the heads
less thread wear
premature plug failure
extended plug life
over-torquing
under-torquing
correct-torquing
voiding your warranty
poor mileage
increased mileage
non-changing mileage
bad UOAs
improved UOAs
disbarment from the "I Only Follow OEM Society" (IOFOS) and their subcommittee "Brotherhood Of I Only Follow TSB" (BOIOFT)
acceptance into the "Fraternal Order Of I Know Better Than The Factory" (FOOIKBTTF) and their local "Automotive Engineers Are Idiots And Ruled By Bean Counters Club" (AEAIARBCC)
warts
wart removal
itchiness
soothing
dry mouth
thirst quenching
dermatitis
moisturized skin
flat tires
over-inflated tires
under-inflated tires
non-leaking tires
over-heating
over-cooling
oil-hoarding

and worst of all
over sensitivity to the very thought that someone somewhere might install plugs using anti-seize but paradoxically cringing at the thought that plugs may be installed dry.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: tom slick
Ursae has been around here long enough that I'm sure he's seen the regurgitated chatter that comes up anytime the word anti-seize is whispered.

[...]

and worst of all
over sensitivity to the very thought that someone somewhere might install plugs using anti-seize but paradoxically cringing at the thought that plugs may be installed dry.

 

[JZiggy]

Hilarious! I use anti-seize on my plugs and I love that they always come back out again. Nothing gives you that sinking feeling like a stuck spark plug...

 

[demarpaint]

I've been using it on plugs for decades, that's how I was taught. The key is to carefully apply it to the threads and keep it away from the electrode area. I don't see any problem if its used properly and with common sense. The last thing I want is a plug welded into the head when a dab of anti-seize was all it takes to avoid that.

 

[Eddie]

All the poor guy asked was which antisieze to use and he get a lectures and sermons. ))

 

[Ursae_Majoris]

Thank you. Now I know what to use for a wart where sun don't shine!
Will it help with measles too?

 

[Ursae_Majoris]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
All the poor guy asked was which antisieze to use and he get a lectures and sermons. ))

I am going to use AS, since I've dealt with hard to remove plugs before. I just wanted to know which AS to use, since I've seen copper, nickel, and now silver recommended.

Looks like consensus is copper or silver, based on responses by those who actually use AS.

Thank y'all for a lovely discussion.
If I am still around in 10 years and still have my Axiom, I will revive this thread and let you know how it went.

For a split second I thought about using AS on one side and installing plugs dry on another and testing, but my sanity returned.
Unless BITOG pays to heli-coil the "dry" head, AS going is going in.

 

[doitmyself]

Last time this discussion came up I promised I would call Permatex. Here's what they said today.

All three will work. Plug temps. can get quite high, almost near 1600 F (Is this true??).. The silver is o.k., but close to the 1,600 limit. The copper is better because it has both higher temp. rating AND better conductivity. The Nickle is best because it has highest temp. rating and still has good conductivity.

Why not use the Nickel? Why isn't plug use listed on the TDS? He mentioned that for "non" high performance engines
it might be viewed as over kill and it tends to not be available in smaller package sizes, costs, etc..

So, Nickel - Copper - Silver in that order, with the Copper being the best "practical" choice.

Regarding lug nuts, they used to recommend it in their literature. He said they still "recommend" it in theory, but due to today's climate (bad application practices AND liability) they can no longer endorse it publicly.

 

[mechtech2]

Lots of plugs come out just fine.
But some do not, and preventative AS would have helped.
Who know when and which?
We don't.
So a little is good. A few seconds and a few cents of AS.

 

[Vikas]

Have you guys played with anti-seize where you can test its effectiveness? I have with Permatex silver. I used it for a gas burner stove screw. It definitely did NOT work. In less than a month of burner usage, the screw was as hard to come out as it was without the AS. Full discolsure:- The AS tube is at least 10 years old (or may be 20 years).

 

[nleksan]

You forgot "May cause dry mouth, upset stomach, nausea, constipation, diarrhea, intense debatitis, incurable opinionitis (extremely contagious), irrational fear-mongering, and erectile dysfunction".

 

[Ursae_Majoris]

Thank you, thank you.

 

[tom slick]

Cures fits, warts, freckles
coughs, colds, runny nose
Guaranteed not rip, run or snag
Make conception a wonder and childbirth a pleasure

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Last time this discussion came up I promised I would call Permatex. Here's what they said today.

All three will work. Plug temps. can get quite high, almost near 1600 F (Is this true??).. The silver is o.k., but close to the 1,600 limit. The copper is better because it has both higher temp. rating AND better conductivity. The Nickle is best because it has highest temp. rating and still has good conductivity.

Why not use the Nickel? Why isn't plug use listed on the TDS? He mentioned that for "non" high performance engines
it might be viewed as over kill and it tends to not be available in smaller package sizes, costs, etc..

So, Nickel - Copper - Silver in that order, with the Copper being the best "practical" choice.

Regarding lug nuts, they used to recommend it in their literature. He said they still "recommend" it in theory, but due to today's climate (bad application practices AND liability) they can no longer endorse it publicly.


The kind I recently used(Permatex 133A) states it is:

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants.

the msds:

linky

 

[sleddriver]

When I used up my tube of permatex aluminum, all I found was copper. Been using it for about 8 yrs now. No problems in Al head Volvo motor. Doesn't take much. I do torque plugs to spec - ~ 10% to account for the goop.

 

[mechtech2]

The plug threads do not get up to 1,600 F on the threads -never. That is for the tip of the insulator in rare occasions.
600-1000 is about normal running tip temp, which is always hotter than the threads.

 

[Kira]

Hello, My first Volvo V70's plugs screeched and howled as I removed them from the aluminum head. The car has seen nothing but the 3 prong plug bearing the Volvo name. I apply a bit of anti-seize as does "everyone" on the various Volvo boards. We get no more screeching whilst removing plugs. The great and powerful Oz has spoken. Kira PS I love you guys

 

[garlicbreadman]

antiseize rubberizes over time and if you put too much, it can fall into the combustion chamber when you remove it. No harm though..

i always put a small amount of silver anti seize and torque it down. never hand torque spark plugs...dont know why so many mechanics do.

 

[antiqueshell]

Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, My first Volvo V70's plugs screeched and howled as I removed them from the aluminum head. The car has seen nothing but the 3 prong plug bearing the Volvo name. I apply a bit of anti-seize as does "everyone" on the various Volvo boards. We get no more screeching whilst removing plugs. The great and powerful Oz has spoken. Kira PS I love you guys


I found the same experience on my VW Golf 1996 2L.

Always been maintained exactly according to the manufacturer including plugs and torque values but still creaking as the plugs are removed.