Changing Spark Plugs and Lubrication

Apr 28, 2022
Michigan, USA
Been changing spark plugs for over forty years. First motorcycles, then on both cars and motorcycles. I have never lubricated anything relating to spark plugs up to now.

Will be changing my later model Beemer with new NGK plugs when the weather warms up, as now beyond the 60,000 miles suggested spark plug change, although the vehicle is running well. There are two places for potential lubrication to enable easy service the next time - the threads and the coils that attach to the plugs.

After reviewing several of the videos, my question is should I lubricate the threads and/or coils, and what with? I have hi-temp. copper anti-seize (for threads?) and both wet and dry silicone spray (for coils?). Some have suggested NOT lubricating NGK threads. Some have suggested lubricating the coils, so they are easier to extract when lifting them off the plugs the next time, as they tend to stick.

Want to be sure I am doing it right! Intend to keep the car for as long as possible, so anticipate at least another spark plug change after this round. Thank you in advance for your feedback.
NGK most likely says use nothing on the threads. They have a magic coating....

At the other end of the spectrum, I watched a video once where the guy coated his threads with about a half-tube of anti-seize. Each plug. The entirety of the threads had a thick coating of it from end to end. That is too much!
What does BMW say ? Honda uses NGK plugs and says to use anti-sieze while NGK says not to. Who should a Honda owner/mechanic follow ? What I would do is use it or not use it and keep it to myself 👊🏻
As far as i know you are supposed to put dielectric grease in the ridges of the spark plug. I saw a video on spark plugs and how they are designed. The ridged area is there to increase the length of the insulator without making the plug longer. Therefore making sure the electricity can’t travel down the porcelain. By adding dielectric grease into the groves it helps the electricity not jump the groove gaps so they said.
On spark plugs, I apply a little bit of Permatex silver anti-seize to the threads. But the method I use is what's important. I use an acid brush. I can more easily control the amount being applied with the acid brush. If I have too much on the brush, I will then swipe the brush across a newspaper to remove some of the anti-seize. I never get any anti-seize on the white ceramic insulator. If I get some anti-seize on the wrench flats, I'll remove that with a Q-tip. My same method applies to oxygen sensors. The acid brush is key.
I use a copper-based anti-seize on plugs. I put a ring dab (about this big *) on the threads and then use a clean paper towel to force the anti-seize into the threads. You want just a very thin coating. As for the coils, I've never used anything on the boots.
I never use lubricant on plugs, just a smidge of dielectric grease where metal and ceramic meet in the middle of the plug, old plugs usually have a brown ring in that place. Nothing goes on or inside coil.
I think using antiseize for aluminum makes sense; conventional antiseize can have copper in it which can cause galvanic corrosion in an aluminum cylinder head.