Changing Spark Plugs and Lubrication

[RaymondP]

Been changing spark plugs for over forty years. First motorcycles, then on both cars and motorcycles. I have never lubricated anything relating to spark plugs up to now.

Will be changing my later model Beemer with new NGK plugs when the weather warms up, as now beyond the 60,000 miles suggested spark plug change, although the vehicle is running well. There are two places for potential lubrication to enable easy service the next time - the threads and the coils that attach to the plugs.

After reviewing several of the videos, my question is should I lubricate the threads and/or coils, and what with? I have hi-temp. copper anti-seize (for threads?) and both wet and dry silicone spray (for coils?). Some have suggested NOT lubricating NGK threads. Some have suggested lubricating the coils, so they are easier to extract when lifting them off the plugs the next time, as they tend to stick.

Want to be sure I am doing it right! Intend to keep the car for as long as possible, so anticipate at least another spark plug change after this round. Thank you in advance for your feedback.

 

[Eddie]

Review what NGK recommends. TaDa

 

[PF52]

NGK most likely says use nothing on the threads. They have a magic coating....

At the other end of the spectrum, I watched a video once where the guy coated his threads with about a half-tube of anti-seize. Each plug. The entirety of the threads had a thick coating of it from end to end. That is too much!

 

[redhat]

On the other end of the coin... what are y'all thinking about with the other end of the plug. A little silicone paste/dielectric grease where the plug wire goes on the plug?

 

[Hall]

What does BMW say ? Honda uses NGK plugs and says to use anti-sieze while NGK says not to. Who should a Honda owner/mechanic follow ? What I would do is use it or not use it and keep it to myself

 

[JoelB]

The plugs i go back and forth on. I'm inclined to use a small amount of antisieze but if the manufacturer specifically says not to I would likely follow that. I do like some dielectric grease on the inside of the coil boot to help them come off in the future.

 

[spasm3]

I use a tiny tiny dab of antiseize on spark plug threads, even ngk.
I use some dielectric grease only on the inside of the tip of the spark plug boot.

 

[joegreen]

As far as i know you are supposed to put dielectric grease in the ridges of the spark plug. I saw a video on spark plugs and how they are designed. The ridged area is there to increase the length of the insulator without making the plug longer. Therefore making sure the electricity can’t travel down the porcelain. By adding dielectric grease into the groves it helps the electricity not jump the groove gaps so they said.

 

[John_Conrad]

On the other end of the coin... what are y'all thinking about with the other end of the plug. A little silicone paste/dielectric grease where the plug wire goes on the plug?

 

[Bailes1992]

I've always used a ceramic grease on the threads of spark plugs. Only a tiny drop thinly smeared around the threads.

This is the stuff I've always used...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/febi-bilstein-26712-Grease-injectors/dp/B0068NKZEE/ref=asc_df_B0068NKZEE/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310770513297&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10029419292091959812&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007413&hvtargid=pla-332438235109&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

[Propflux01]

I use nickel never seize on all my plugs. Just a tad will do. If my boots are stuck during removal, then I put a tad of dielectric on the plug body as @joegreen described.

 

[Soft Cars]

On spark plugs, I apply a little bit of Permatex silver anti-seize to the threads. But the method I use is what's important. I use an acid brush. I can more easily control the amount being applied with the acid brush. If I have too much on the brush, I will then swipe the brush across a newspaper to remove some of the anti-seize. I never get any anti-seize on the white ceramic insulator. If I get some anti-seize on the wrench flats, I'll remove that with a Q-tip. My same method applies to oxygen sensors. The acid brush is key.

 

[Number_35]

You're in the rust belt - I would use a little bit of anti-seize on the plug threads (regardless of what NGK says) and reduce the torque slightly.

And an unreserved Yes to the use of silicone grease on the insulator to facilitate future removal of the rubber boot.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Most so called anti seize when cooked on threads becomes like locktite.

 

[Marcozi]

I use a copper-based anti-seize on plugs. I put a ring dab (about this big *) on the threads and then use a clean paper towel to force the anti-seize into the threads. You want just a very thin coating. As for the coils, I've never used anything on the boots.

 

[dubber09]

I never use lubricant on plugs, just a smidge of dielectric grease where metal and ceramic meet in the middle of the plug, old plugs usually have a brown ring in that place. Nothing goes on or inside coil.

 

[Number_35]

Most so called anti seize when cooked on threads becomes like locktite.

And yet, replacement O2 sensors always some with anti-seize.

 

[KrisZ]

How about extracting them and see how they come out? There is no one size fits all. Stuck plugs or coils depend a lot on climate and conditions the vehicle is operated in.

If everything comes out no/little problems, I would use nothing. If you encounter problems, then anti seize is probably not a bad idea.

 

[LouC]

I think using antiseize for aluminum makes sense; conventional antiseize can have copper in it which can cause galvanic corrosion in an aluminum cylinder head.

 

[vetteryan]

No anti-seize on NGK plugs. Torque specs will be off when you tighten them.