Changing Spark Plugs and Lubrication

[dave940]

And yet, replacement O2 sensors always some with anti-seize.

Several years ago, I worked in an O2 sensor assembly plant. The last step before shipping was to apply either Never-seez or "Nile Coat" to the threads. I doubt that the auto manufacturers cleaned it off before installing them.

 

[kschachn]

Several years ago, I worked in an O2 sensor assembly plant. The last step before shipping was to apply either Never-seez or "Nile Coat" to the threads. I doubt that the auto manufacturers cleaned it off before installing them.

Interesting, you applied the anti-seize on the sensor threads prior to shipping?

 

[dave940]

Interesting, you applied the anti-seize on the sensor threads prior to shipping?

It was automated, NGK. The type of anti-seize was specified by the customer. Nearly everything went to the auto manufacturers. It was an art to take them off the assembly line and pack them in crates without getting anti-seize all over yourself or the crates. Mind-numbing, noisy job, especially in the first stages of assembly. They blared music over the loudspeakers as a solution. I wore earplugs (not supplied by management). After several months of this, I found another job.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Been changing spark plugs for over forty years. First motorcycles, then on both cars and motorcycles. I have never lubricated anything relating to spark plugs up to now.

...

Want to be sure I am doing it right! Intend to keep the car for as long as possible, so anticipate at least another spark plug change after this round. Thank you in advance for your feedback.

Pro tip. NEVER apply anti-seize on plug threads unless they are back conversion coated AND susceptible to water splash/spray. Torque on non-gasketed plug should be reduced by manufacturer's rec amount.

NEVER EVER use Silicone sprays around a Lambda controlled engine - it ruins the 02 sensors.

A tiny bit of dielectric grease wiped around the spark plug insulator ribs will inhibit water/ moisture ingress
and allow easier removal of COP stems or wire boots.

Keep the plug insulators clinically clean and dirt/grunge free.

This mean Bra-kleen the rubber insert in you spark plug socket prior to use.

- Ancient NIASE Master

 

[DGXR]

I have always used a VERY small amount of anti-seize on spark plug threads. Just above the 2nd thread from the electrode end because you do NOT want that stuff getting into the combustion chamber.
Silicone spray or silicone grease between the plug and the spark plug boot (coil boot) is a good idea -- this will keep the two from bonding together after hundreds of heat/cool cycles and will prevent moisture entry to this important electrical connection.
Also I agree with the above statement about keeping all silicone products away from all engine sensors. Just keep your work area clean and don't spray anything toward the engine, shouldn't be a problem.

 

[nthach]

Several years ago, I worked in an O2 sensor assembly plant. The last step before shipping was to apply either Never-seez or "Nile Coat" to the threads. I doubt that the auto manufacturers cleaned it off before installing them.

Yep, Bosch sensors always come with Never-Seez on the threads. Denso ones come with a small pack of C5-A or Cu7439 in the box.

Ford wants anti-seize on the plug shell of the HT 3V plugs. My SOP, unless OE(Honda) wants it or it’s a black oxide shell, no anti-seize.

 

[GSCJR]

I use a tiny tiny dab of antiseize on spark plug threads, even ngk.
I use some dielectric grease only on the inside of the tip of the spark plug boot.

Thisis what I've done for over 25 years, without incident. Furthermore, I find torque wrenches don't work for me, so I do it by feel.

 

[kschachn]

Thisis what I've done for over 25 years, without incident. Furthermore, I find torque wrenches don't work for me, so I do it by feel.

I use the torque angle that’s usually on the box.

 

[GSCJR]

I use the torque angle that’s usually on the box.

That works too

 

[nthach]

I use the torque angle that’s usually on the box.

If in doubt, 1/8 turn for taper seats and 1/4-1/2 turn for gasketed seats is my rule of thumb.

 

[FZ1]

Been changing spark plugs for over forty years. First motorcycles, then on both cars and motorcycles. I have never lubricated anything relating to spark plugs up to now.

Will be changing my later model Beemer with new NGK plugs when the weather warms up, as now beyond the 60,000 miles suggested spark plug change, although the vehicle is running well. There are two places for potential lubrication to enable easy service the next time - the threads and the coils that attach to the plugs.

After reviewing several of the videos, my question is should I lubricate the threads and/or coils, and what with? I have hi-temp. copper anti-seize (for threads?) and both wet and dry silicone spray (for coils?). Some have suggested NOT lubricating NGK threads. Some have suggested lubricating the coils, so they are easier to extract when lifting them off the plugs the next time, as they tend to stick.

Want to be sure I am doing it right! Intend to keep the car for as long as possible, so anticipate at least another spark plug change after this round. Thank you in advance for your feedback.

Tiny, very tiny, bit of anti seize. Don't over torque the plugs, as the anti sieze can reduce the torque required to tighten, properly.

 

[FCD]

I've never used anti seize, never torqued a spark plug to spec either , never had any issues!
Mind you i've mostly had older cars where the plugs are easy to remove and i like checking them when i'm bored on my days off so they don't have a huge chance of seizing.

 

[kschachn]

I've never used anti seize, never torqued a spark plug to spec either , never had any issues!
Mind you i've mostly had older cars where the plugs are easy to remove and i like checking them when i'm bored on my days off so they don't have a huge chance of seizing.

I didn't either for a long time, even for plugs that had been in the head for 100,000 miles. Until this last time that I replaced them in my old ECHO. Those were stuck enough that I was afraid of stripping the head, but they came out eventually. I'm back to using a bit of anti-seize now, even on the ones that don't require it. Using the torque angle spec on the box eliminates any torque value changes due to the lubricant.

 

[John_Conrad]

always clean around the spark plug hole before you begin removing the spark plug. That prevents debris from falling into the cylinder once the spark plug is out. And, it allows the new spark plug to start threading smoothly.

Blow the crud out of the area with compressed air before loosening the spark plug.

 

[Mainia]

Interesting, you applied the anti-seize on the sensor threads prior to shipping?

I just replaced both Hyundai F/A OX sensors before and after the CAT and the both came with applied aluminum anti-seIze. One with a plastic ring thread cover, the other had a special folded wax brown paper that pinned the sensor in place so the anti- seize would stay in place and not rubbing all over the sensor head.

 

[ammolab]

Keep the plug insulators clinically clean and dirt/grunge free.

This mean Bra-kleen the rubber insert in you spark plug socket prior to use.

- Ancient NIASE Master

Brake Kleen on rubber?…..the stuff that says before use “protect rubber and plastic” right on the label?….

 

[Chevyc10]

On the other end of the coin... what are y'all thinking about with the other end of the plug. A little silicone paste/dielectric grease where the plug wire goes on the plug?

Apply dielectric grease to spark plug wire boots, inside where spark plug-ceramic touch boot. I use Q-tip, little dab will do i.

 

[Nesterenko]

Using the torque angle spec on the box eliminates any torque value changes due to the lubricant.

Why does the lubricant not change the torque value with this method?

 

[kschachn]

Why does the lubricant not change the torque value with this method?

It’s just an angle, not an actual torque.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

The plugs i go back and forth on. I'm inclined to use a small amount of antisieze but if the manufacturer specifically says not to I would likely follow that. I do like some dielectric grease on the inside of the coil boot to help them come off in the future.

NGK specifically says not to.. During my phone call with them to verify a plugs authenticity, they specifically told me they have a plating that is designed for them to "go on dry." He corrected me as well.. Plating, not coating.

Option #2 is Technical Support at same number. That one works as well.

NGK CUSTOMER SERVICE
1-877-473-6767, dial #3
hours: 8:30am – 5:00pm
Monday-Friday EDT

Fake NGK plugs on Amazon

I like rockauto for filters and other things I can bulk up on wipers etc. for actual parts maybe.. depends on the part their price vs local etc.

bobistheoilguy.com

NGK also reminds me that their plugs have a special plating and the tech told me that they are made to be put in dry, FWIW. No anti sieze. I'll just leave that there, but that is the school of thought I am subscribing to on the matter. (They also told me they should be torqued to between 18 to 22 ft/lbs.)

So. I'm in the "They go on dry" camp.