Another 0w16 Post, but....

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In a perfect world having you oil already at operating temp at start up would be ideal/perfect. 0W is nothing to be feared. Overkill for AZ sure but would still be a good thing (keeping you nearer operating cst than anything else).

Now the 16 weight/grade of this oil is the part I dont like, 99% probably just for CAFE !
 
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All of which is true in a general sense but does not apply for this user. The winter rating will be irrelevant for his conditions.

And just FYI none of the numbers are a “weight”.
I understand fully the grade #'s.

I will also point out, multi-visc oil have a ton of non-lube molecules in it, which makes the oil chameleon. The wider the spread the more non-lube crud is in the oil.

Oils w/o the "crud" visc modifiers are better:
1) they cool better (yes, adding the long-chained polymers "visc mods" makes it harder for heat to transfer in/out of the oil), engine oil pri goal is lube, 2nd is cooling.
2) they do not degrade as much with use, so less oil changes = more $$ for beer.
 
Probably not. Can anyone point to examples where super thin viscosities are for maximum protection and not for CAFE purposes?

Probably not.
I am not saying 0w16 would make it fail, how would I know, I just got the 2020. What I do know is, I can choose a perhaps better oil for my specific use/env that might get me more longevity w/o caring about mpg's.
 
2. Use whatever your little heart desires and be your own warranty if it breaks.

Using whatever viscosity "your little heart desires" does not automatically void the warranty, unless it was some extream viscosity that the manufacturer could prove caused the breakage. Remember, oil viscosities in most owners manuals are "recommendations".
 
I think the one-oil-fits-all is not the best model to use. But that's how OEM's roll.
 
I am not saying 0w16 would make it fail, how would I know, I just got the 2020. What I do know is, I can choose a perhaps better oil for my specific use/env that might get me more longevity w/o caring about mpg's.

0w-16 will not make anything fail. The vehicle will most certainly perform adequately at least until the warranty is up. However, 0w-16 is definitely not the first choice for maxiumum protection and longevity. A lifetime of 5w-30 in warm cliamates for example would almost certainly provide better protection and less wear, while losing maybe 0.1-0.2 mpg.
 
That 2.5 engine has a lot of SkyActiv technology in it. I wouldn’t worry about running a quality 0w16 in that motor.
 
Can you even buy straight 20 anymore, I was looking the other day and I think the only stuff I could find was Non-detergent.
Not sure. Maybe RP or Redline or Ams?
Oddly SAE30 synth is very expensive. Stuff that is not available probably is only for a niche few, thus no need to make it.
 
Not sure. Maybe RP or Redline or Ams?
Oddly SAE30 synth is very expensive. Stuff that is not available probably is only for a niche few, thus no need to make it.
When you get into Synth I think that you can pretty much achieve 10W30 without any VII or with very little VII content so they don't bother with packaging a straight 30 since it would pretty much be 10w30
 
A 0w16 running in a small hot engine when it's ~107-110F outside, looks like pee water.

This is why I think the OEM's should not spec out a visc grade for use, but should rather just spec out a oil lube rating(s) as acceptable, and then perhaps highlight a oil grade that provides best fuel economy.
And this is why we do engineering analysis and optimization to determine what is appropriate instead of someone's opinion of which bodily fluid a lubricant approximates.

Comments like this make BITOG a lesser place and appeal to the lowest common denominator.
 
And this is why we do engineering analysis and optimization to determine what is appropriate instead of someone's opinion of which bodily fluid a lubricant approximates.

Comments like this make BITOG a lesser place and appeal to the lowest common denominator.
Not so fast. The 0w16 was developed solely for "efficiency" purposes. It's not some magical lube that's better then the rest. Two realms to analyze, efficiency and lubrication. A good mix of the two is good, but I am not so interested in getting +0.001 mpg's. A SAE20 is likely better than a 0w16 for my specific use/env.

Pull up the film strength of a sae20 vs a 0w16 at say 250F, what do you get?
 
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Your vehicle will never see 250f oil temps so it doesn't really matter.

I don't even think there any any API certified monogrades anymore anyway.
 
Your vehicle will never see 250f oil temps so it doesn't really matter.

I don't even think there any any API certified monogrades anymore anyway.
?? The bottom side of a piston never gets to 250F ?

RP has 30/40/50 API mono's
 
Your vehicle will never see 250f oil temps so it doesn't really matter.

I don't even think there any any API certified monogrades anymore anyway.
I wouldn't say never. My Ram 5.7L sees oil temps between 215-225F under normal driving conditions. It would not surprise me if oil got 10-20F hotter while towing. And this is with a 7 quart sump.

It would not surprise me if a RAV4 sump saw oil temps in the same range.
 
If you don't want to use 0w16, then don't use it 😝
I also don't think 0w16 will cause any problems. Toyotas usually aren't picky with oil, and some of them can run on canola oil :D

Napa Synthetic is on sale this month for $3.39, and you can use 0w20, 5w30, or any other grade they offer :)
Unfortunately, they don't have the house brand in 0w16 yet

Those who are OK with 0w16 might be able to get it at a great price at Walmart, where some stores are putting it on clearance.
 
I wouldn't say never. My Ram 5.7L sees oil temps between 215-225F under normal driving conditions. It would not surprise me if oil got 10-20F hotter while towing. And this is with a 7 quart sump.

It would not surprise me if a RAV4 sump saw oil temps in the same range.

OP has a four cylinder Camry
 
RAV4/Camry, same thing. I would expect a 4-cyl engine with a 4.5-5 qt sump to have higher oil temps than a V8 with a 7 qt sump.

Not many vehicles on the road (ie none) that have oil operating temp more than about 230 in normal conditions. Even that is somewhat rare, most are 210-215 range.
 
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