This leads me to another thought,
whats better the ACD or the ASE???
whats better the ACD or the ASE???
Amsoil 10W-30/SAE 30(ACD)???
- Thread starter daman
- Start date
- Status
while oils are often blended for particular characteristics, i'd have to go with the ACD, i mean you wouldn't run ASE in a big diesel engine would you and that's pretty severe service for an oil.
I stick with the ACD recommendation, unless for some reason the equipment runs on the cool side with a coldish plug. ACD will also deal with condensate (storage) cycles better.
ASE is tempting though. I may get some in to try out here in the cool (wet) PNW.
ASE is tempting though. I may get some in to try out here in the cool (wet) PNW.
Thanks Pablo, no she runs HOT.
as does all air
cooled 4 strokers do..
cooled 4 strokers do..
JHZR2
Staff member
yep, the reason I chose acd was due to the supposedly superior corroson protection... especially relevant if you change the oil at the end of the season, run it out of gas, and let it sit until next spring.
JMH
JMH
This is a timely quote for me because I'm ready to store the lawnmower in a few weeks.
Is this the best approach incidentally? I always changed the oil before storage, but I had usually filled the tank with the proper mix of fuel and stabilizer before storage.
Is it better to run it dry? I guess gas can't varnish if there's none in the tank and carb....
Metal tank: fill and stabilize.
Plastic tank: stabilize the carb, then drain.
Plastic tank: stabilize the carb, then drain.
Thanks dwendt44,
I'd appreciate understanding this, so here's my stab at the rationale applied above:
1. a carb should always be filled with stabilized gas (does this protect the gaskets/seals or something?);
2. The metal tank will rust if left empty;
3. A plastic tank won't rust, and a full gas tank just collects condensation(?).
My John Deere JX75 has a plastic tank, so I'll run it dry, do an oil change, then add a little stabilized gas, run it for a minute or two then shut it down and drain the gas tank. Is this a good approach?
Is there any need for "fogging oil" in the cylinder? Winters are cold here, but pretty dry (humidity-wise).
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
I'd appreciate understanding this, so here's my stab at the rationale applied above:
1. a carb should always be filled with stabilized gas (does this protect the gaskets/seals or something?);
2. The metal tank will rust if left empty;
3. A plastic tank won't rust, and a full gas tank just collects condensation(?).
My John Deere JX75 has a plastic tank, so I'll run it dry, do an oil change, then add a little stabilized gas, run it for a minute or two then shut it down and drain the gas tank. Is this a good approach?
Is there any need for "fogging oil" in the cylinder? Winters are cold here, but pretty dry (humidity-wise).
Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this.
I see a lot of people write and talk about this but it just doesn't make sense to me. All carb gaskets and seals are gas resistant to the point of being gas proof. That's why they're there, to keep gas from being leaked. If the gaskets/seals aren't going to absorb gas then what is going to dry out if there is no gas present?
My small engine cylinder index is 20. Everything but my twin cylinder Kohler 28 EFI and my generator are emptied of fuel and run dry at the end of every season. The oil is changed (in those that have oil), they're greased, cleaned, air filters changed, fuel filters changed and they're forgotten about until the Spring. In the Spring I put fuel in them, prime them and pull the starter rope. They start every time on the second or third pull.
Regardless of whether you run the carb out of gas or stabilize the fuel the worst thing you could do is nothing.
I fix small engines on the side and when a trimmer or blower comes in in the Spring that won't start and it's full of fuel I tell the person to expect to have to buy a carb. I really don't even like stabilizing a full tank of fuel and then putting the tool away for the winter unless there is a way to stop the flow of gas to the carb. Stabilizers should be able to keep the gas from going bad but it won't stop the gas from evaporating and that's where the problems begin. Gas evaps from the carb and as it goes down in the bowl (fuel pump in 2 strokes)where it leaves a little varnish behind. Since the tank is full of fuel the evaped gas is replenished with more fuel and the cycle continues until all of the gas is gone and the carb is junk.
What group is the ACD base stock in???
daman,
To my knowledge the ACD is Group IV/V base stock. I'll let the other Amsoil dealers verify if I'm incorrect, but the only oils that are not Group IV/V basestock from Amsoil are their XL and diesel blend oils. At least that is what I have gathered on this site.
To my knowledge the ACD is Group IV/V base stock. I'll let the other Amsoil dealers verify if I'm incorrect, but the only oils that are not Group IV/V basestock from Amsoil are their XL and diesel blend oils. At least that is what I have gathered on this site.
Thats what i thought,thanks!!!
- Status
Similar threads
