Am I wasting money with Amsoil/Schaeffers?

How many miles do they have on them and how long have you been doing this?
05 Ranger - 87k (2.5k a year)
00 4Runner - 260k (5-6k a year)
97 B2500 - 176k ( (4 Sale) 100 miles in the last 4 years (and last oil change))
93 F150 - 256k (1.2k a year)
I used to change their oil every year. My goal is to change their oil at 5-6k miles so the 4Runner gets a yearly. The Ranger gets a 2 year oil change and the F150 three years (might extend that). Been doing this for the past 5 years and the oil comes out looking as good as when I poured it in. None of them burn or leak any oil between OCI's.
 
$80 oil change on a Taurus? It's your money though!
Yeah, way overkill. Had a Taurus that went over 200k. Changed the oil with whatever was cheaper/on sale. Usually some synthetic blend which was what Motorcraft 5w20 was. Sometimes 5w30 when it was free like G-oil. Mostly changed it around 5-6k. Even went up to 8k once on synthetic blend. Engine was fine at the end, the transmission went and the car was only worth a little over 1k at the time and the transmission failure was going to cost me at least 1k to replace the torque converter so I got rid of it. Oil changes typically costed me $20-$30, but sometimes as low as $2 which was the cost of the filter. A decade ago there used to be some really good sales every few years.
 
In the end,we all spend money and our time differently,it doesn't make anything more right or wrong,we all do things differently.

What a boring world it would be if we all did the same thing as everyone else day in day out.

And then you can also overthink things. I do lots of the same boring things every day. Brush my teeth, workout, cross the street, eat, pay bills, change the oil....
 
I liken this discussion to cereal. Let’s take Fruit Loops or the store-brand (pick your grocery store) “Fruity-Os”. They are for all intensive purposes the same. They taste almost the same. They both have x/y/z ingredients. They both make a turd. Fruity-Os cost less. But in the end, I may like paying a few bucks more to have Fruit Loops and you may not give a flip and buy Fruity-Os. At some level, we all choose things based on different parameters and cost and quality are certainly top-tier in that discussion but not the end-all-be-all. Sometimes a name, a package design, or even sponsorship or where you buy it may sway a decision and who the hell am I to judge how you spend your money? Now some will say that this is a bunk discussion b/c Fruity-Os are actually better by a number of technical measures so they are clearly both better and cheaper but none of that will change that I like how Fruit Loops taste better so that’s what I buy. Folks get to say I’m dumb, I get to enjoy by bowl of Fruit Loops.
 
If you tend to keep a car until the wheels fall off then use the good stuff. If you dump cars every 5 or 6 years or less and put under 100K miles on them before replacing the vehicle, then you're wasting money putting top tier oil and fluids in the vehicle.

Spend some time here reading experiences of others, and study a bunch of UOA reports that are shared here. When you are done you will realize there is no data to support that belief. There are all kinds of people here that use the cheapest oil they can find, oils like Havoiline, Super Tech and other store brands. And at the end of the road, they put as many miles on their cars as those who use Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Castrol, or Shell in their crankcase. Cars with 250,000 miles and still going.

Many here on BITOG don't like to hear that. they turn a blind eye to these reports. But the evidence is here. Plenty of it. Hard to ignore if a person is open minded to what is shared here.
 
Spend some time here reading experiences of others, and study a bunch of UOA reports that are shared here. When you are done you will realize there is no data to support that belief. There are all kinds of people here that use the cheapest oil they can find, oils like Havoiline, Super Tech and other store brands. And at the end of the road, they put as many miles on their cars as those who use Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Castrol, or Shell in their crankcase. Cars with 250,000 miles and still going.

Many here on BITOG don't like to hear that. they turn a blind eye to these reports. But the evidence is here. Plenty of it. Hard to ignore if a person is open minded to what is shared here.
Have you ran the Kirkland 15k and posted UOA ?
 
Spend some time here reading experiences of others, and study a bunch of UOA reports that are shared here. When you are done you will realize there is no data to support that belief.

Many here on BITOG don't like to hear that. they turn a blind eye to these reports. But the evidence is here. Plenty of it. Hard to ignore if a person is open minded to what is shared here.

Thanks for the input but this is my replacement account I've been here since before Bob sold the board. ALS.
I lost my password and couldn't get back in since my Email changed from when I signed up.

My comment was my OPINION and how I would deal with it. I know that others on the board have different opinions and more expierence with oil than I do.

Thanks.
 
Have you ran the Kirkland 15k and posted UOA ?

No I'm on my first oil change with the Kirkland. I've never went over about 10k mile oci interval on the Outback. but generally stay close to 7500 mile oci. A number of my UOA have said to venture further, but I haven't done it. You can call me chicken.

Thanks for the input but this is my replacement account I've been here since before Bob sold the board. ALS.
I lost my password and couldn't get back in since my Email changed from when I signed up.

My comment was my OPINION and how I would deal with it. I know that others on the board have different opinions and more expierence with oil than I do.

Thanks.

Thanks for the explanation. Now that I have reread your post, along with your reply, I understand better.
 
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I don't think the Taurus needs an 80 dollar oil change.

The Diesel truck has a high dollar engine that may be worth putting good oil in. The VW is picky about oil but you will be well served just meeting VW spec.
My mom bought her 2010 Taurus new and gave to my sister at 240k miles roughly. The water pump failed a year after that and it got sold to a technician I used to work with for $600 with no rust. He spent $100 just for the special tools to do it, 16 hours labor plus the parts and nearly gave up and sold it as is. It's now running again, but I found it interesting that the chains and guides were completely worn out after only 240k miles. The coolant hadn't been leaking long enough to cause that wear apparently. This car had conventional bulk oil (mostly Pennzoil) every 3k miles, all highway driving. It makes me wonder if spending a bit more on synthetic and running it a bit longer might have been better for the chains in the long run. So many people claim all cars will go to the junkyard with a good engine, so why spend any extra on better oil? As someone who keeps my vehicles for 30 plus years, I don't agree with that mentality.
 
There are LML Duramax engines with over 1 million miles on them and they did not use Amsoil or Schaeffers,

True enough, and diesels are generally longer lasting than gas engines.

But I answered about the Ford 5.4 gas V8, and the videos I referenced are for that engine so as to make an apples to apples comparison.
 
I have used Amsoil gear oil for 10 years in all of my axles because I believe it is arguably the best on the market. Speaking for me, Amsoil engine oil would not get a second glance, (nor would any of the other boutique oils).

I have ran extended OCIs and normal OCIs with popular off the shelf oils and have not seen a need to look at other more expensive oils. However, I can relate to anyone wanting to use the "best", so I would say to @John9721 use whatever makes you happy.
 
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I think of it like this. I need a 25 foot ladder to get on the roof of my two story house. I could spend more and get a 40 foot ladder. Is the 40 foot ladder better than the 25 foot ladder? Do I benefit from the extra 15 feet?

I find the lowest cost oils that meet the specs for the cars in my signature. That's 5w30 Dexos1 gen 2 for the truck, and 5w30 A5/B5 for the car. No need for anything extra.
The ladder analogy doesn't make sense. What does the length of the ladder have to do with oil quality? If we were talking about the material the ladder is made of and comparing that, then that makes more sense.
 
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