Pretty sure all the marketing material on Amsoil is about the signature series which is a great botique oil but I don't think there's much out there on XL and OE which seem to be meant to compete with the stuff you can get off the shelves at Walmart or even the Autoparts store for a good deal less money.
Am I wasting money with Amsoil/Schaeffers?
- Thread starter John9721
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I don't think anyone is questioning the quality of Amsoil, just the value. For those that want a premium brand, Amsoil is a good choice.
So, I just talked to my cousin this weekend. He lives in south Florida, Fort Myers area. He is an electrician, residential and light commercial.
He bought a 1997 F-250 HD, 7.3L, brand new. It pulls a trailer 99.5% of the time. Currently has 463,000 miles on it , engine has never been touched. Has run Rotella T4 dino since day one.
He bought a 1997 F-250 HD, 7.3L, brand new. It pulls a trailer 99.5% of the time. Currently has 463,000 miles on it , engine has never been touched. Has run Rotella T4 dino since day one.
The only waste of money would be doing short OCIs.
130k-ish on M1. Ok sure. I won't bore you with the full 15 minute version, but how about a million miles on Schaeffer? Check out the Youtube videos.
The point here is to use the appropriate interval for the oil you are using.
As shown over and over, just about any oil is good for 5,000 miles in a port injected NA engine.
Where Amsoil and Schaeffer shine is in an extended interval situation.
For the post about T6 15w-40 monthly, imagine the savings had they used Schaeffer's every other month or longer.
For the BMW poster saying 18k on any approved oil, have you seen the sludged up BMW pics? Better get a UOA at that distance.
130k-ish on M1. Ok sure. I won't bore you with the full 15 minute version, but how about a million miles on Schaeffer? Check out the Youtube videos.
The point here is to use the appropriate interval for the oil you are using.
As shown over and over, just about any oil is good for 5,000 miles in a port injected NA engine.
Where Amsoil and Schaeffer shine is in an extended interval situation.
For the post about T6 15w-40 monthly, imagine the savings had they used Schaeffer's every other month or longer.
For the BMW poster saying 18k on any approved oil, have you seen the sludged up BMW pics? Better get a UOA at that distance.
Probably, we’re all splitting hairs here unless you’re running some crazy heavy duty equipment, tracking the hell out of car, or are running some crazy exotic space ship with 9 drain plugs. If it helps you sleep at night then it’s worth the money Since its cheaper per month than retail cost of most prescription sleep aids.
That’s for you to decide.. if you enjoy sticking with that purchase run it to your hearts desires. However there’s many synthetics out there that will definitely meet your demands and you can support local business. I say that because I don’t see Schaefer or amsoil locally. I personally like to shop my local NAPA and very fond of their full synthetic. Otherwise I’d use Mobil 1 or super tech from Walmart.
You did not mention your oil change intervals. If you are not going the limit on the Amsoil than IMO a waste of $$. I was a dealer for many years with Amsoil (primarily for the discounts, I did not resell it) but back then there were not many alternatives if one wanted a synthetic. Now, I use mostly Pennzoil PUP, or Mobil 1 ESP. An oil change with these after the rebate is around $25. Amsoil is a great oil, just overpriced. I do use their ATF and Gear oil if I have a need but engine oil, for me just overpriced. Today's engines with reasonable oil change intervals will outlast the rest of the vehicle.
I prefer expensive food and drink to expensive engine oil.
I was using synthetic on my oil burning 212,000km 05 highlander, then I realised it was an 05 oil burning highlander and I have started using 40-50 grade $15-20 oil with a $3-4 filter.
I suppose I'd be more adventurous if it did not burn oil but it's a 3.3L N/A V6 with port injection, used to haul little ****s to school and take me to work. It doesn't need euro spec oil.
I vote for using oil depending on the engine. Yes the Jetta will need euro oil and the powerstroke would do well with higher end oil. Not sure about the Taurus, is it N/A or Ecoboost turbo? I am fairly certain that Fram ultra synthetic filters are $10 or less on Rockauto. You can probably use Castrol or Mobil for a cheaper OCI too. As other's are saying, whatever gives you the warm fuzzies
I suppose I'd be more adventurous if it did not burn oil but it's a 3.3L N/A V6 with port injection, used to haul little ****s to school and take me to work. It doesn't need euro spec oil.
I vote for using oil depending on the engine. Yes the Jetta will need euro oil and the powerstroke would do well with higher end oil. Not sure about the Taurus, is it N/A or Ecoboost turbo? I am fairly certain that Fram ultra synthetic filters are $10 or less on Rockauto. You can probably use Castrol or Mobil for a cheaper OCI too. As other's are saying, whatever gives you the warm fuzzies
In my many decades of driving and doing my own oil changes until recently , I have used everything from Quaker State conventional to PP and Mobil 1 . I have mixed brands and weights and even used the evil Fram orange filters . NEVER have I had any oil related issues with any of my cars and trucks . My OCI's have never been shorter than 4k and are usually around 5-6 k . The point of all this ? Most of you are overly anal about your oil and filters but it's your vehicles and your money so rock on . 
Evil Fram orange filters? OooookayIn my many decades of driving and doing my own oil changes until recently , I have used everything from Quaker State conventional to PP and Mobil 1 . I have mixed brands and weights and even used the evil Fram orange filters . NEVER have I had any oil related issues with any of my cars and trucks . My OCI's have never been shorter than 4k and are usually around 5-6 k . The point of all this ? Most of you are overly anal about your oil and filters but it's your vehicles and your money so rock on .
In my many decades of driving and doing my own oil changes until recently , I have used everything from Quaker State conventional to PP and Mobil 1 . I have mixed brands and weights and even used the evil Fram orange filters . NEVER have I had any oil related issues with any of my cars and trucks . My OCI's have never been shorter than 4k and are usually around 5-6 k . The point of all this ? Most of you are overly anal about your oil and filters but it's your vehicles and your money so rock on .
People spend more money on random things for their vehicles, than a few dollars extra for a quart of oil. Got a buddy that buys a $8 air spencer every month for his car which equates to nearly $100 annually, and he would tell you without hesitation that it is worth it.
I'd rather there be a community that expects the best out of motor oils, as supply will generally meet demand. So props to any company that try's to innovate their oils beyond the industry standards. Hopefully people supports those companies as well.
Motor Oils, definitely a weird sub-genre within the automotive community to be interested in. But whatever floats our boats.
I retired at 49 and im 63 at present. I own a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 2k miles and a 2014 Mustang 5.0 with 42k miles and a 2018 Dodge Challenger 5.7 with 13k miles plus a 1978 Kawasaki KZ 650 with 10k miles and a 1980 Yamaha XT 500 with 11k miles. I would be in above average bracket and can buy just about most anything I want. I use QS syn in the Dodge and will in the Jeep when it comes time to change it. Mustang gets Mobil 1 and changed every 5k. Ive done 3 oil changes in the Dodge so far.....I could buy RP but will it make any diff in performance......no. I cant see any sense in wasting money when the QS and Mobil 1 going to do the job for less. In the bikes I use Dinolube...older Japanese bikes dont like thin oils. I use Valvoline motorcycle oil 10w 40 in both bikes and change it 2-3 times a year....or when i get bored.
Of course I do all my own work....I enjoy working on cars and motorcycles.
Of course I do all my own work....I enjoy working on cars and motorcycles.
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Probably don't need it but I use a "boutique oil" in one of my vehicles. I run Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 in my 2011 Tundra with the 5.7L. It is not cheap as it does require 8 quarts but I only change it 1x a year. I buy the Amsoil from a preferred dealer that lives near me and buy it buy the gallon.....2 gallon jugs is $79.50 if my memory serves me right. Local dealer charges 20 dollars less and I worry that they don't do the job right. I do some towing and hauling but honestly, any name brand oil would probably work.
My other two vehicles are still under warranty, so I just use a name brand synthetic changed at the factory recommended interval.
My other two vehicles are still under warranty, so I just use a name brand synthetic changed at the factory recommended interval.
When I had to do the servicing runs on the g car fleet for my agencies field office, I talked to the GSA manager who said they have never had a lubrication related failure across the whole govt., running the cheapest oil (re-refined oil is required if available) rated for the application. Of course, no modified or exotic vehicles.
I'm using SuperTech and change the oil 1x a year. Or 1x every 2 years depending on mileage (don't drive much).
I'm sure the Amsoil is overkill but it is not that much more than what the dealer charges for bulk synthetic. I also have the peace of mind knowing the job was done correctly and with quality materials.
If you tend to keep a car until the wheels fall off then use the good stuff. If you dump cars every 5 or 6 years or less and put under 100K miles on them before replacing the vehicle, then you're wasting money putting top tier oil and fluids in the vehicle.
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