A Case For Not Going 10,000 Miles on an OCI

Extrapolation of a sketchy maintenance history of a "commercial vehicle with high idle hours" to other vehicles is disingenuous at best.

This is BITOG; there is enough information here to indicate what usage patterns and engines have no issues with very long OCI.

Will continue to do 15K OCI in my prius and 10K in my yaris.
Judging by how our 1NZFE looks with 5K OCI i'd be terrified to do 10K.
 
Meanwhile the suspension is falling apart, the tires wear funny, the transmission makes weird noises and the quarter panels are rusted out...
True. My experience is It’s other things that take us out of our cars.

Usually cosmetic things, truth be told, but there are guys who also neglect every other mechanical thing except for oil changes.
 
You know what? The PITN of '16 Camry oil changes is the filter. If I just drained the oil at 5K and the filter at 10K... I don't mind paying twice as much for oil, if it keeps the rings free.
 
Not sure if I will watch the video later, but I am coming up on 230k on a 2AR-FE. Must be the type of driving? no oil burning here. Mostly 10k oci but as time has gone on I have started doing 5k after a winter’s run.

It sure is started to feel old though.
 
Meanwhile the suspension is falling apart, the tires wear funny, the transmission makes weird noises and the quarter panels are rusted out...
Suspension is something you often expect to replace before 200K. Engines and transmissions can easily get to that number, or even higher with PROPER maintenance. Rust isn't much of a concern in the southern states, so it's worth doing oil changes in a timely manner to have a healthy engine when you make it to 200K. There are plenty of cars running around down here with 200K+ miles that drive like a new one.
 
We had the earlier 2.4L in our Rav 4 and it burned oil at 50K regardless of strict maintenance with good oil (Mobil Clean 5000) and factory filters. It was a long stroke engine base on 1AZFE. High piston speed.

Ring/piston design issue I would guess.
 
Those "few bucks" really add up over the life of a car, though. Say you have a car specced for 10k oil changes, but you do it every 5k with Mobil 1 or some similar synthetic oil and a decent filter instead. Over 300k miles, that's an extra 30 oil changes - you've done 60 instead of 30. At a ballpark of, say, $40 per change (for M1 and a filter with tax), we're talking an extra $1200 over the life of the car, a not-insignificant sum.

If you change at 3k, as some people still do, you've changed the oil and filter 100 times instead of 30 times the book called for, an additional cost of $2800 over changing it on factory spec. Would I rather have a 300k mile car that had 10k M1 changes as per the book (with that engine probably in excellent working order), plus an extra $1200-2800, or the same car with slightly cleaner engine internals (perhaps) and have several fewer thousand dollars? In the $2800 example, that car with 300k miles on it is not necessarily even worth $2800, so I'm not sure that it's really "such a good deal" to change the oil unnecessarily early for the life of a car (that $2800 could pay for a rebuilt transmission, or another major repair to keep the old car on the road, or be the down payment on the next car...)

This math gets even more extreme if you pay someone to change the oil, as many/most people seem to do. 3k vs 10k oil changes over 300k with a cost of $100 (ballpark for synthetic at Jiffy Lube and many dealers) adds up to an extra $7000 over the life of the car. Is that 300k mile car going to be worth $7000 more because of its over-maintained history? Is there any evidence that it'll even run better or be in better mechanical condition than if the owner just followed the book?

Now, there are examples of sludgers and engines that beat the oil up, but for a garden variety engine speccing 10k oil changes under normal conditions, that's really all that's needed most of the time, assuming you use quality oil, etc. (That is, the people who designed the car probably know far better than people saying things like "This oil is turning light brown and has 2800 miles on it, so I'll change it!")

The point of all that math is that the incremental "few bucks" (scare quotes mine) add up over the lifetime of a car, and changing oil early for the "warm fuzzies" may not be the most financially-savvy move out there, as it could cost a few thousand plus over the lifetime of any given car.
I change my oil every 5k or six months whichever comes first at around $20 - $25 bucks a pop. That’s with Mobil 1 (utilizing rebates) and a Toyota filter. In my case, I’m never going to save enough on oil changes to pay for one engine rebuild. Again, to each their own.
 
I had an 86 Ram that I went way overboard on maintenance, as I was young and had the car bug. I sold it when I moved to CA due to my modifications, and dad not letting me use his address to keep it registered in IL. The kid I sold it to destroyed it in less than a year, and then it became the local junk mans truck. All that maintenance on my part was wasted money.

On the other end, I worked for a place where vehicle maintenance was a winter project only. Trucks had 200,000 plus miles on them. They looked bad, but still ran decently and didn’t really use much oil.

I learned that I could do a bit less maintenance than I had been. The only truck I saw a problem with was a Ford 2.7Ecoboost that the driver never changed the oil in. When we fired him, the truck had 32,000 miles and became an oil burner at around 90,000 miles (1qt every 1500-2000 miles).

It’s your car, do what you want. My conditions tend to lead to changes between 6000 and 7500 miles, or about once per year, generally before it gets too cold.
 
Dude obviously has a video camera, why am I seeing a bunch of pictures in a slide show - could not finish. Frankly that should be grounds for a flogging.

As for the case for no 10K OCI, I would say it is more a case of why not to buy a Toyota POS. If GM or Ford put out as many sludgers and smokers as Toyota y'all would have a lynch mob headed for Detroit but Toyota builds utter garbage and it is the greatest thing since sliced bread....

The only other one one that could probably get away with it and still have a love fest around here is Honda...

A don't get it.

/Rant
 
People still confusing lack of maintenance with properly extended OCI's are just largely ignorant people. Yes I get with some oils and some engines 12K miles MAY not be possible, but that's not what are talking about is it?

This thread needs more @dnewton3 . He knows. :) (y)
Keyword is properly. Most users fail to perform the proper testing, or the proper testing is not economical. Perhaps a particle count in addition to an UOA is warranted sometimes.

Ultimately it comes down to a $$$ issue. And for many vehicles, a full safety/maintenance inspection every 5K or so is probably a good idea....especially once the vehicle gets older.
 
Have not been to Europe lately, however up to 15 years ago, when I would lease a Renault (sometimes a Peugeot), the owners manual always said to change oil every 30,000 km. That’s about 18750 miles. Of course they use real Synthetic, not the stuff we get.
 
Have not been to Europe lately, however up to 15 years ago, when I would lease a Renault (sometimes a Peugeot), the owners manual always said to change oil every 30,000 km. That’s about 18750 miles. Of course they use real Synthetic, not the stuff we get.
they used a3/b4 and c3 oils you can find at walmart lol
 
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He has published other videos talking specifically about passenger cars, 4 cyl priuses & camries having stuck rings when going for 10K OCIs, so this video alone doesn't represent his whole case against long OCIs. He's even reporting recent camries running 0w16 developing this problem when run for 10K OCIs.

I'm not saying I do 5K OCIs for all my cars--just clarifying his position.
Granted However, the OP has indicated this is a case against 10K (title of thread) I don't believe it is.
 
To each their own but I’ve never understood why anyone would push an OCI to 10k or more. Risking a very expensive repair to save a few bucks on an oil change? It’s false economy.
I fully agree it blows my mind!! Why?? Are they seriously to tight to spend the extra few bucks to change the oil??? meanwhile having enough money saved to retire years ago. Lol I have noticed the more money some of these guys have the tighter they become. There is no way I’d go 10 thousand miles let alone some going 15 thousand plus. I always keep a eye on how the oil looks at 3,000 miles and usually change it then but have went to 5,000 before In the winter because it was to cold for me. Is it the money making them want to stretch it out 15-20 thousand miles or that they just don’t like having to do it? I figure a lot of people on this forum do their own oil changes. My opinion on this is just that, my opinion and means nothing to anyone but myself. For these guys going 10 thousand plus it really doesn’t matter to them being they usually get rid of the car before 100 thousand miles anyway leaving it to us to clean er up. Lol
 
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We had the earlier 2.4L in our Rav 4 and it burned oil at 50K regardless of strict maintenance with good oil (Mobil Clean 5000) and factory filters. It was a long stroke engine base on 1AZFE. High piston speed.

Ring/piston design issue I would guess.
Drain hole on the piston IIRC. 96mm stroke. 2AR FE is 98mm and does not suffer the same malady.
 
Dude obviously has a video camera, why am I seeing a bunch of pictures in a slide show - could not finish. Frankly that should be grounds for a flogging.

As for the case for no 10K OCI, I would say it is more a case of why not to buy a Toyota POS. If GM or Ford put out as many sludgers and smokers as Toyota y'all would have a lynch mob headed for Detroit but Toyota builds utter garbage and it is the greatest thing since sliced bread....

The only other one one that could probably get away with it and still have a love fest around here is Honda...

A don't get it.

/Rant
I’ve seen some stupid posts on here but this ranks right up there. 🤣
 
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What I find interesting, is the fact that the engine itself is very clean inside. And actually it being a 2016, with that kind of mileage, I would think that would make a good point you COULD push changes out a bit, as its obviously drove alot. I wonder at what mileage it started to burn oil.....
 
To each their own but I’ve never understood why anyone would push an OCI to 10k or more. Risking a very expensive repair to save a few bucks on an oil change? It’s false economy.
Exactly. Even if you use an expensive oil like Redline or Amsoil and change it every 3k at 300,000 miles you've spent ~$6000. New engines can easily cost that much installed or even more. I see no reason to push past 5k unless doing a UOA, but then again, for the cost of the analysis you could've just changed the oil so why bother?
 
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