300V is racing oil. It is not suitable for street driving.Wow that's a lot of 034 Motorsport upgrades. I had their Stage 1 for a minute but it caused cold start issues and Customer Support was brutal. Not sure if it was ChatGPT responding to my emails or what. Won't make that mistake again (though the tune was nice).
Believe it or not, Audi-recommended Castrol Euro is just fine. That being said, you could throw some Motul in there - 300V or 8100 x-cess. Liquimoly is great too, just make sure it's the one that is 502/505 approved (Leichtauf High Tech?)
While you're in there, switch to Motul for the transmission, too.
What did Stage 3 end up costing you, if you don't mind me asking? Also, sorry that you're stuck with 91 octane![]()
Hello,
Pardon me if this has already been answered somewhere. I have a 2018 Audi S5 Sportback Prestige with 3.0L turbo DI engine. I have a larger TTE810 turbo on it along with quite a few other modifications and I run E85 blended with 91 to get an E60 blend. I am tuned with 034 Motorsport and they say the car should have about 650 wheel HP and 615 ft;lbs wheel torque both of which is about double the stock numbers. 034 recommends using the heavier 5w40 spec oil from the older SQ5, which is a VW 502-00/505-00 spec, in order to cope with the additional stress of added power. Their shop recommends LiquiMoly, but I am not sure exactly which LiquiMoly formulation.
For the last ~20k miles I have been working through my stockpile of OEM Audi 0w20, which I believe is the VW 508-00 spec, but now I am out and I want to find a better oil to use.
I really don't remember much from the old days when I lurked on BITOG, but a quick search tells me that I want high HTHS, not low SAPs, and low Noack.
The LiquiMoly options I am seeing are (they all have the same 3.5mPas HTHS):
- Leichtauf High Tech SAE 5W40 SKU:2332 - 10.0% Noack (CEC-L-40-A-93)
- Molygen New Generation SE 5W40 SKU:20232 - 10.0% Noack (DIN 51581) - Why different Noack spec?
- Synthoil Premium SAE 5W40 SKU:2041 - 12.9% Noack (CEC-L-40-A-93)
- Top Tec 4100 SAE 5W40 SKU:2330 - 9.5% Noack (CEC-L-40-A-93) - Low SAPs
I read from a 2017 BITOG post by user "edyvw" that for a DI engine I want a lower Noack such as Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 with its 5.6% Noack
Please help me find a good oil. Ideally one that is readily available and wont break the bank.
300V is racing oil. It won’t do good in street driving.I would be surprised if all 4 of these have the same HTHS. I was under the impression that Molygen had lower HTHS then its peers.
I would agree that 0w40/5w40 is a better choice for you, and considering you are running high alcohol fuel, you want something that can withstand some level of fuel dulition, even if you change every 5k miles. If this was mine, I would either go fancy with Motul 300V (short oci) or HPL (long oci), or go with something good value such as PUP or Mobil 1 European. If you are living in the USA, I don`t think LM is really a good value proposition.
SuperCar 0w40?You want minimum 5W40.
Considering tune, WHP, HPL BAS 5W40 or HPL Euro 5W40 if you want something special.
Ordinary, Motul X-Cess, Pennzoil, Mobil 1.
Sure, why not. You mean HPL?SuperCar 0w40?
For clarity - HPL Super Car?SuperCar 0w40?
Of course.Sure, why not. You mean HPL?
Bcs. Mobil1 has Supercar. That is why I asked.Of course.
I figured I’ve been called an HPL fanboy enough times on here that it would be taken for granted that’s what I meant. Apologies for the confusion.Bcs. Mobil1 has Supercar. That is why I asked.
Long enough to have reached fan man statusI figured I’ve been called an HPL fanboy enough times on here that it would be taken for granted that’s what I meant. Apologies for the confusion.![]()
Used to be. The current forumatlion is more street friendly300V is racing oil. It won’t do good in street driving.
Friendlier than last? Perhaps. Friendly? No.Used to be. The current forumatlion is more street friendly
Sounds like you know something I don`t. I can imagine the deposit part, but surprised on the evaporation loss.Friendlier than last? Perhaps. Friendly? No.
We did some testing here, there are still a lot of deposits and high evaporation loss. I used that on street and returned excellent UOA. But, that doesn’t show whole picture.
Actually they have dual oil, Power. Motul always has API certification for dual oils.Sounds like you know something I don`t. I can imagine the deposit part, but surprised on the evaporation loss.
Motul`s technical team explanation to me was that it is a much better version of 8100 line, and perfectly good for 3 to 5k miles OCI on a street/track dual use vehicle.
Sounds like you know something I don`t. I can imagine the deposit part, but surprised on the evaporation loss.
Motul`s technical team explanation to me was that it is a much better version of 8100 line, and perfectly good for 3 to 5k miles OCI on a street/track dual use vehicle.
Thank you verymuch for sharing that. I have to say this very puzzling for me. His findings are definitely against my apriori, and even though his testing method is not perfect, it is very sensible, and empirically looks reliable enough since he is also testing against a known reference sample.
This is still pure racing oil. I don't think they advertise on bottles that are street-friendly. I will check tomorrow in the garage.Thank you verymuch for sharing that. I have to say this very puzzling for me. His findings are definitely against my apriori, and even though his testing method is not perfect, it is very sensible, and empirically looks reliable enough since he is also testing against a known reference sample.
The thing that does not make sense to me is, the previous formulation they used had a noack that is half of what JAG is calculating here. Just the sanity check wise, it really does sound wrong to me that their noack doubled moving from a racing focused formulation to a street friendly formulation. Espeically also given that they emphasize this formula being catalytic converter friendly, there must be something we are missing here. But given this, if I were the OP, I would definitely go with HPL supercar over 300V. Especially also considering they cost pretty much the same
I don't think i have ever seen an oil bottle saying the oil is street friendly, no matter the brand/product line.This is still pure racing oil. I don't think they advertise on bottles that are street-friendly. I will check tomorrow in the garage.
Like I said, it might be friendlier than the previous, more ester-heavy version (I actually still have that, need to use it), but it isn't dual oil like Power is, or HPL BAS.
It returned excellent UOA for me. Strictly street driving. I wanted to do only the street to check it. Oxidation was in check:
OK, here is one interesting (I think) UOA.
Oil is Motul 300V 5W40, designed for racing purposes, and this is a current (new) formula with a bit less ester content than before (more PAO).
Specification is KV100 13.5cst and HTHS is 4.1cP.
Car was NOT tracked. Blackstone got used to me sending them samples having dual track/daily time, but not this time. I just did not have time to track. But, I was really interested in how this oil does in a strictly daily regime, considering it is racing oil.
Clearly, as this is simple UOA, not everything can be identified, but oxidation is in check...
- edyvw
- Replies: 64
- Forum: Used Oil Analysis - Gasoline
I highly doubt Noack is that high, but it is high nevertheless.