5w-20 in 100 degree heat? Will it protect?

[Hootbro]

Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will shear out of grade In. Hot temps a lot of worn out hondss motors up here in NYC. 10w30 is the way to go. Very shear stable


Interesting as the main design point of 5W-20 is that it is shear stable for it's given weight.

I would imagine any oil in NYC type driving probably should be measured in engine hours and not miles driven. I suspect many are doing 5K in NYC would be the equivalent of 10K in any other area.

 

[chiks]

Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will shear out of grade In. Hot temps a lot of worn out hondss motors up here in NYC. 10w30 is the way to go. Very shear stable


How many worn out Mazda motors? or Ford motors?

These two have been using the 5w-20 grade since 2003.

 

[Brons2]

I'm running 5w20 right now in both of the vehicles listed in my profile. No problems and good UOA. Average high temps in the upper 90s in July and August.

Last summer we had a record number of days over 100F in a single year, I think it happened 94 times or something like that. Vehicles fine with 5w20. Folks, if your car specs 5w20, it will work fine.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will shear out of grade In. Hot temps a lot of worn out hondss motors up here in NYC. 10w30 is the way to go. Very shear stable


You just provided false information again. Do you take enjoyment in this?

 

[oldmaninsc]

Originally Posted By: oldmaninsc
Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will not protect in 100 degrees. Climates

Really? First - do you have any proof of this?



Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will shear out of grade In. Hot temps a lot of worn out hondss motors up here in NYC. 10w30 is the way to go. Very shear stable


Repeating the same garbage isn't proof!

I think it's safe to say the deserts of the southwest have a LOT more 100+ degree days than New York does. L.A. has the worst traffic in the nation. Yet I'm not seeing all the cars that are using 5W-20 dying along the roads! I wonder why that is?

 

[antiqueshell]

If you are down south or out west where you don't get temps constantly below freezing I'd go with a 10w-30 after my warranty ran out. It is true that 10w-30 is very shear stable and I'd prefer to have the 30w aspect for 100 F and above temps that can be a regular occurrence. But until that warranty runs out USE ONLY what the manufacturer specifies.

 

[Zako2]

Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
If you are down south or out west where you don't get temps constantly below freezing I'd go with a 10w-30 after my warranty ran out. It is true that 10w-30 is very shear stable and I'd prefer to have the 30w aspect for 100 F and above temps that can be a regular occurrence. But until that warranty runs out USE ONLY what the manufacturer specifies.


I am sure 10W30 would work fine in +90% of cases, but I would have preferred a quality synthetic 5W20 or 0W20. Both should be shear stable but without compromising cold start flow. As a bonus, I will enjoy all the other benefits of using a synthetic vs conventional oil.

 

[dave1251]

Not in my vehicles I am out west and 20 grade is more than accurate.

 

[dave1251]

Only when I can buy synthetic for less than conventional do I consider that synthetic provides anything a well formulation conventional can not.

 

[Zako2]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Only when I can buy synthetic for less than conventional do I consider that synthetic provides anything a well formulation conventional can not.


The cost of using synthetic vs conventional seems about the same. Two 5 quart jugs of Mobil Super 5000 ($15 at my wal-mart) and two cheap filters cost about the same as 5 quarts of Mobil 1 (26 at my walmart) and a better oil filter. M1 should be good for roughly twice as many miles/hours of engine operation as MS5K. So really, there is not much cost difference in using synthetic vs conventional, and this makes a lot of sense to me. Think of the arbitrage opportunities if the pricing was different. If conventional oil change cost less than $10, few people would buy synthetic at the current prices. If synthetic oil change cost less than $20, few people would buy conventional at the current prices.

 

[dave1251]

Well I am sorry but I have been getting good service out of conventional with over 7K OCI's. With comparable wear #'s, oxidation, the only place that a "synthetic" has outperformed conventional is slightly better TBN retention. Another factor you should consider a 5 quart jug will only give me about a 70% of a full pan. So I can get a complete oil change for less than 7 quarts of Mobil One and I doubt that I can obtain a 14-15K OCI on Mobil One and I may not be able to get a 15K OCI on M-1EP.

 

[rcy]

Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will shear out of grade In. Hot temps a lot of worn out hondss motors up here in NYC. 10w30 is the way to go. Very shear stable


Bahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.....

No really....

Bahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.....

I guess my mom's 2002 Honda Accord (240 000km), my friend's 2004 Honda Accord (290 000km), my 2006 Lexus RX400h hybrid (190 000km) and my 2006 Acura MDX (210 000km) were made to run on 0w10 then (or whatever the 5w20 and 0w20 that have been in the vehicles shears to according to you).

By the way, where I live (southern Ontario) we experience basically the same weather as New York.

 

[ckmarsh]

My owners manual for my ford said to use "synthetic oil i think i will go by the book on my truck syn 5 qt jug is just 26$

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: chiks
Originally Posted By: Ram01
5W20 will shear out of grade In. Hot temps a lot of worn out hondss motors up here in NYC. 10w30 is the way to go. Very shear stable


How many worn out Mazda motors? or Ford motors?

These two have been using the 5w-20 grade since 2003.


My 2002 was actually originally spec'd for 5W20.

Sounds like a Hondss problem since my Ford is doing fine with 5W20 in a warmer climate than NY. Lots of 100+ and high 90s days this year and the truck hasn't skipped a beat on 5W20. Not exactly light footed driving either.

 

[Zako2]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Well I am sorry but I have been getting good service out of conventional with over 7K OCI's.


If you regularly get good service out of conventional over 7K OCI, which does not contradict the recent OCI recommendations of some manufacturer's (e.g. Ford), then the car is probably seeing lots of cruising as opposed to stop and go. This should be easy on oil and synthetic could be extended beyond 10,000 miles as well. In either case, I would not feel comfortable with pushing synthetic this long or conventional to 7,000 miles without taking UOAs.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: ckmarsh
My owners manual for my ford said to use "synthetic oil i think i will go by the book on my truck syn 5 qt jug is just 26$


I assure you for your 4.6 mountaineer Ford did not spec synthetic.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: Zako2
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Well I am sorry but I have been getting good service out of conventional with over 7K OCI's.


If you regularly get good service out of conventional over 7K OCI, which does not contradict the recent OCI recommendations of some manufacturer's (e.g. Ford), then the car is probably seeing lots of cruising as opposed to stop and go. This should be easy on oil and synthetic could be extended beyond 10,000 miles as well. In either case, I would not feel comfortable with pushing synthetic this long or conventional to 7,000 miles without taking UOAs.


Have you seen my UOA? Fuel dilution was terrible for a non DI engine. Plenty of stop and go, towing and enough driving off road.

 

[ckmarsh]

Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: ckmarsh
My owners manual for my ford said to use "synthetic oil i think i will go by the book on my truck syn 5 qt jug is just 26$


I assure you for your 4.6 mountaineer Ford did not spec synthetic.

2006 Mercury Mariner syn or smi syn no dino i dont really care i get motor oil free all i buy is the filter but i really dont care what people use its just car oil all name brands are fine.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: ckmarsh
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: ckmarsh
My owners manual for my ford said to use "synthetic oil i think i will go by the book on my truck syn 5 qt jug is just 26$


I assure you for your 4.6 mountaineer Ford did not spec synthetic.

2006 Mercury Mariner syn or smi syn no dino i dont really care i get motor oil free all i buy is the filter but i really dont care what people use its just car oil all name brands are fine.


It does not say syn or semi syn.

Use SAE 5W-20 engine oil.
Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American
Petroleum Institute (API). An oil with this trademark symbol conforms
to the current engine and emission system protection standards and fuel
economy requirements of the International Lubricant Standardization and
Approval Committee (ILSAC), comprised of U.S. and Japanese
automobile manufacturers.
To protect your engine’s warranty use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 or an equivalent 5W-20 oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C930-A. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine.
Do not use supplemental engine oil additives, cleaners or other engine treatments. They are unnecessary and could lead to engine damage that is not covered by Ford warranty.
Change your engine oil and filter according to the appropriate schedule
listed in scheduled maintenance information.
2006 Mariner (mrn)
Owners Guide (post-2002-fmt)
USA (fus)

 

[lt1man]

Come on now, of course the oil will protect. If it didn't, Hyundai wouldn't recommend it!