5w-30 QSUD 2006 Range rover 6,000 OCI

[l322spouse]

Hello all, I drive a vehicle I could find very few UOA's for, so I decided to get myself one done. It is a 2006 Range Rover with a jaguar 4.4 v-8 with an oil capacity of 8 quarts. There are some posts for the newer 5.0 V-8, but that's a newer direct injection variant. I used an OEM Mann 713/29 oil filter, which is a synthetic blend filter media. This oil saw temperatures of 80 degrees to 0 degrees F, and there was some towing up to 5,500 pounds as well. The oil was quaker state ultimate durability 5w-30. No oil was added during this interval. I see that my chromium level is above average. It may be piston rings, but I feel as though it could be piston rings and cylinder liners together. The liners are cast in cast iron, and maybe it is cast iron with some chromium for wear resistance? With a shim buck OHC valvetrain, I wonder if there is any chromium up top as well?

 

[fantastic]

Well, the Fe (Iron) wear level is not high at all so I don't think it's your iron cylinder walls. From what I know the Chromium is sourced from piston rings. It appears you have darn near a quarter of a million miles on this rover so there is some additional wear going on in the other places which is not unexpected. There's going to be some extra wear with that kind of mileage, along with your towing, depending on the engine & environment. The iron & Al (aluminum) wear is low which is a good sign. The rest are just a bit elevated but nothing terrible. You could try going to a 5w-40 & retest. Thanks for sharing.

 

[l322spouse]

Well, the Fe (Iron) wear level is not high at all so I don't think it's your iron cylinder walls. From what I know the Chromium is sourced from piston rings. It appears you have darn near a quarter of a million miles on this rover so there is some additional wear going on in the other places which is not unexpected. There's going to be some extra wear with that kind of mileage, along with your towing, depending on the engine & environment. The iron & Al (aluminum) wear is low which is a good sign. The rest are just a bit elevated but nothing terrible. You could try going to a 5w-40 & retest. Thanks for sharing.

Not only am I nearing a quarter million miles, but I got it with 146,000 miles on it, and the 2 owners before me racked up the miles around New York City and Washington DC, so the hours on this engine may be a LOT. It's a quiet engine though. I will keep an eye on the oil level to see if it drops any, the oil change after that one was the first time I had ever seen it fall below the min mark on the dipstick, but I know for a fact the PCV valve was stuck open and there was fresh oil in the PCV hose to manifold, so that's been replaced.

 

[fantastic]

Sounds like you're getting your moneys worth out of it. I've always liked those H2o or whatever those sporty looking rover SUVs are. The oil burning may be that it's starting to get past the rings due to the mileage or from towing. As long as you're not needing to add oil every 500 miles then I'd say run it.

 

[ripcord]

Whoa! A Range Rover that made it to 250k miles!

 

[l322spouse]

Sounds like you're getting your moneys worth out of it. I've always liked those H2o or whatever those sporty looking rover SUVs are. The oil burning may be that it's starting to get past the rings due to the mileage or from towing. As long as you're not needing to add oil every 500 miles then I'd say run it.

If you mean HSE that's just high standard equipment, and their way of saying.....well they just put that on their luxury models, I guess. If my rings do wear and reduce my compression, maybe I'll be able to start using lower octane fuel at least!

 

[l322spouse]

Whoa! A Range Rover that made it to 250k miles!

View attachment 188560

The key is to get a model year that uses drivetrain components that have been around awhile to iron out issues. The aj-v8 came out in 1996, and the 4.4 model didn't add much new tech, besides VVT I think. I do still have occasional interior luxury accessory issues, but the deepest work I think the engine has ever had was an intake manifold gasket, and an alternator. And micromanaging it's possible repairs probably helps too. The engine has 2 thermostats and with out watching oil temp with a scan tool you wouldn't know if you should change the oil thermostat or not. and frankly you wouldn't inherently know it has one for the oil to begin with.

 

[fantastic]

If you mean HSE that's just high standard equipment, and their way of saying.....well they just put that on their luxury models, I guess. If my rings do wear and reduce my compression, maybe I'll be able to start using lower octane fuel at least!

Well, maybe I'm mistaken if HSE is just a trim model. I didn't know what it stood for.

I like this body style
https://www.cars.com/research/land_rover-range_rover-2006/

I had to chuckle about the lower compression comment... too funny. So, your manual doesn't allow for lower than premium fuel? The Volvo I just picked up says 87 is ok but 91 is recommended for full power. I ran one tank of 91 then went to 87 but I'm not hard on it. The 98 eldorado had no exceptions about using only 91.

 

[l322spouse]

Well, maybe I'm mistaken if HSE is just a trim model. I didn't know what it stood for.

I like this body style
https://www.cars.com/research/land_rover-range_rover-2006/

I had to chuckle about the lower compression comment... too funny. So, your manual doesn't allow for lower than premium fuel? The Volvo I just picked up says 87 is ok but 91 is recommended for full power. I ran one tank of 91 then went to 87 but I'm not hard on it. The 98 eldorado had no exceptions about using only 91.

I had to look into it myself because it gets a little confusing, but HSE is a trim model at least on "The" range rover, which is what you linked to and what I have. It's designation is L322. The Range Rover is the highest level in the Range Rover product line, and all of the other ones have something else added to their name, like Range Rover sport, Range Rover Velar, etc. It is also called the Range Rover "fullsize." The other ones might not have an HSE trim level, I do not know. Originally there was only one Range Rover model among the Land Rover product line, than they added the sport, amd now I lost track of all the other ones. Now I think there are more Range Rovers than their other models combined

 

[wings&wheels]

I had to look into it myself because it gets a little confusing, but HSE is a trim model at least on "The" range rover, which is what you linked to and what I have. It's designation is L322. The Range Rover is the highest level in the Range Rover product line, and all of the other ones have something else added to their name, like Range Rover sport, Range Rover Velar, etc. It is also called the Range Rover "fullsize." The other ones might not have an HSE trim level, I do not know. Originally there was only one Range Rover model among the Land Rover product line, than they added the sport, amd now I lost track of all the other ones. Now I think there are more Range Rovers than their other models combined

Actually the proper acronym is "FFRR" for Full Fat Range Rover, or at least that's what the Offspring's high school friends refer to mine as. You learn something new every day

Nice vehicle BTW.

 

[FZ1]

Hello all, I drive a vehicle I could find very few UOA's for, so I decided to get myself one done. It is a 2006 Range Rover with a jaguar 4.4 v-8 with an oil capacity of 8 quarts. There are some posts for the newer 5.0 V-8, but that's a newer direct injection variant. I used an OEM Mann 713/29 oil filter, which is a synthetic blend filter media. This oil saw temperatures of 80 degrees to 0 degrees F, and there was some towing up to 5,500 pounds as well. The oil was quaker state ultimate durability 5w-30. No oil was added during this interval. I see that my chromium level is above average. It may be piston rings, but I feel as though it could be piston rings and cylinder liners together. The liners are cast in cast iron, and maybe it is cast iron with some chromium for wear resistance? With a shim buck OHC valvetrain, I wonder if there is any chromium up top as well?

Looks good. Vis and silicon good.

 

[l322spouse]

Looks good. Vis and silicon good.

What about the TBN? Part of my reason for doing the UOA actually, was to see if the oil could go the recommended change interval, which is 7,500 miles. It doesn't spec any kind of LongLife synthetic engine oil, so I figured any decent oil should be able to reach it. I've always wanted to think about extended drain intervals with fancy oils, but alas, no company makes anything but a synthetic blend oil filter for it, as far as I am aware, so 7,500 is the max I'd like to consider. I presume they treat the application as to niche to offer an assortment of oil filter grades

 

[l322spouse]

Actually the proper acronym is "FFRR" for Full Fat Range Rover, or at least that's what the Offspring's high school friends refer to mine as. You learn something new every day

Nice vehicle BTW.

haha, I actually forgot about that name for it, that's what they use on the range rover forum

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I would have bought a couple five quart jugs from Walmart at $21.11 x 2.
Intended for my two kids vehicles. Had the Calcium number been 1000 instead of 1500, I would have bit on this deal.
Shucks is all I can say.

Castrol EP, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil-1 EP keep their Calcium number at / right near 1000. Yes, I'll pay more for less.
Double yes!! Yes,Dad still buys both of the kid's oil changes. What's changed is Valvoline Oil Change Shop takes my oil and filter, then does all the work for $25 labor.

My aging body is finding it hard to change my own oil - on our two vehicles, these days. Valvoline Shop owner Bass will eventually do our two Hyunkia's. Handwriting's on my aching body's wall.

 

[fantastic]

What about the TBN? Part of my reason for doing the UOA actually, was to see if the oil could go the recommended change interval, which is 7,500 miles. It doesn't spec any kind of LongLife synthetic engine oil, so I figured any decent oil should be able to reach it. I've always wanted to think about extended drain intervals with fancy oils, but alas, no company makes anything but a synthetic blend oil filter for it, as far as I am aware, so 7,500 is the max I'd like to consider. I presume they treat the application as to niche to offer an assortment of oil filter grades

TBN is still in good shape. It would go more miles if you wanted to.

 

[ford250]

Looks good to me !! QS looking good

 

[Sonny88]

Moly looks good

 

[Popsy]

Chromium, Tin... somethings off (as already said actually)

 

[l322spouse]

Chromium, Tin... somethings off (as already said actually)

It seems like I should do an old school engine health check up with an oil pressure guage, compression check, etc.

 

[FZ1]

What about the TBN? Part of my reason for doing the UOA actually, was to see if the oil could go the recommended change interval, which is 7,500 miles. It doesn't spec any kind of LongLife synthetic engine oil, so I figured any decent oil should be able to reach it. I've always wanted to think about extended drain intervals with fancy oils, but alas, no company makes anything but a synthetic blend oil filter for it, as far as I am aware, so 7,500 is the max I'd like to consider. I presume they treat the application as to niche to offer an assortment of oil filter grades

TBN seems OK. 7500 is the max and I would ,keep it topped up with fresh oil. 02