4 cylinders 600hp 9000rpm, best protection?

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Motor is a EVO 1 4G63 fully rebuilt with forged internals ect.
Bearing clearences are opened up from stock to 0.002
Depending on what fuel is in it it will make between 500 - over 600whp, or over 150hp per cylinder and rev to 9000rpm. It will be used as a weekend street car mostly, with the odd trip to the drag strip. Oil temps should never exceed 250 degrees. The oil will be changed fairly often as i expect a bit of fuel dilution any blow by. I want to use whichever oil will give the best protection most importantly for the bearings as they take alot of load. What would you recomend and why?

Some oils ive considered so far are;

Delvac 15w 14

Motul 300v 10w 40
Redline 10w 40
Redline 40wt racing oil
Valvoline VR1 10w 40 http://www.valvoline.com.au/files/productpdfs/10.pdf

Is there any benefit going to a race oil or 50wt for my aplication?
 
Motul 300V would be my bet. The 10w40 works very well, but if you run it a bit hot with some over fueling maybe try the 15w-50...most of the scoobie boys here in SA use the latter and love it.
 
I'd be running some kind of ester based oil, which I think Motul is, but I am only familiar with Redline Oil as far as ester goes.
 
Motul 300V is diester, and Red Line is polyol ester. Both are also big on moly, which will probably be good in this application. In 10w-40, they are among the stoutest lubricants you can get.

I'd say there is definitely a benefit to an oil formulated with racing in mind. It will have better shear stability etc. Strict race oils are sort of a mixed bag, however; while Motul 300V 10w-40 is formulated for endurance racing and will have at least some additives suitable for street use, that is not the case for Red Line's race oils.

Regarding viscosity, I would stick with a 40-weight if possible. Going thicker has benefits but will also increase drag and internal temps.

I like the idea of a 10w-40 full syn. It'll have no polymeric VIIs and be formulated for some heavy stress, but still have good cold flow.

Of the oils in the short list, the Motul and Red Line 10w-40s would be my top picks.
 
Well, if you want over the counter oil you could probably use Rotella T Syn 5w40 or M1 TDT 5w40. Not sure what is available for purchase in Australia though. I would recommend Schaeffer oil if it was available where you live as well.
 
Indeed it is. I was going to recommend that but I noticed the OP is from Australia, so it would probably be prohibitively expensive; AFAIK, Motul and Red Line have distribution down there.
 
If 300V is diester then I would have a preference for Redline, as POEs are better in almost every area of performance at least in base form.

I would email Redline and ask what they recommend. Bearing forces are dependent on both combustion pressures and rpm, and with a large amount of boost and 9000rpm you have both. You will probably want a high-HTHS oil to control wear under those extreme pressures, but excess viscosity will limit flow (bypass), add heat, and add drag in the turbo. Redline will give you a good recommendation.
 
I've had the least amount of wear in my 600rwhp turbo car with a heavy conventional oil like 20-50 Superflow changed at 1,000 mile intervals. My dad has had similar results in his much more powerful turbo car too.

After reading on this board for a while, I'm going to give Redline 40wt a shot.

Not sure how this applies since mine is a low revving torque monster and yours is a high winding 4 cylinder.
 
Redline 10W40 and their 15W40 are excellent oils. M1 Silver Cap 15W50 not the Gold Cap EP version. M1 High Milage 10W40 has a nice additive package as well. Amsoil 20W50 and NEO's 20W50.

I would start with M1 15W50 after you have at least 500-1000 miles of break in on this engine. In the mean time I would use Delo400 15W40 and a can of GM EOS or STP Racers Edge added to it for the first 1000 miles. Then after the 1000 miles add the M1 15W50 and after 3000 miles take an oil sample but do not drain. This will be the refrence oil since I have personaly ran and used M1 Red cap 15W50 in a lot of Turbo Charged adn NOS equiped improts that I used to build for people. It will give you a point o refrence to judge all other oils buy since you will definately want to use UOA to pick the best oil for this engine. Th cost of the oil and the UOA is nothing compared to the price to replace the engine. Then I would start witht he most avialble and cost effective oils first and work my wy up to the more exotic and costly oils that ust be specialy ordered etc......

I would consider a sytem-1 reusable oil filter because these are biased towards flow and still good filtration.
 
Firstly thanks everyone for your replies, much appreciated.

Originally Posted By: Turbo_777
Motul 300V would be my bet. The 10w40 works very well, but if you run it a bit hot with some over fueling maybe try the 15w-50...most of the scoobie boys here in SA use the latter and love it.


I was initially leaning towards motul as i know one of their rep's, he can get me decent discounts on any of their products. Though i want which ever oil is best for the engine, not which is best value.

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Either of the Redline oils.....that's exactly what they're made for!


Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Motul 300V is diester, and Red Line is polyol ester. Both are also big on moly, which will probably be good in this application. In 10w-40, they are among the stoutest lubricants you can get.

I'd say there is definitely a benefit to an oil formulated with racing in mind. It will have better shear stability etc. Strict race oils are sort of a mixed bag, however; while Motul 300V 10w-40 is formulated for endurance racing and will have at least some additives suitable for street use, that is not the case for Red Line's race oils.

Regarding viscosity, I would stick with a 40-weight if possible. Going thicker has benefits but will also increase drag and internal temps.

I like the idea of a 10w-40 full syn. It'll have no polymeric VIIs and be formulated for some heavy stress, but still have good cold flow.

Of the oils in the short list, the Motul and Red Line 10w-40s would be my top picks.


How about running a 50/50 mix of redline 10w 40 with their 40wt or 50wt race oil? This would give the race oil some detergents that i need for the street. Thoughts?

Originally Posted By: coffee
Well, if you want over the counter oil you could probably use Rotella T Syn 5w40 or M1 TDT 5w40. Not sure what is available for purchase in Australia though. I would recommend Schaeffer oil if it was available where you live as well.


Both those oils arent easily available in Australia, Redline and Motul are however. Penrite is another one which i can get easily, unfortunatley i havent heard much about it.
Some info on Penrite here:
0w 50 http://www.penrite.com.au/files/HTU92EHCZC/SIN Engine Oil 0.pdf
15w 40 http://www.penrite.com.au/files/MSSN64XZ5N/SIN EngineOil 15 and 25.pdf
Anyone seen a VOA on these?


Originally Posted By: glennc
If 300V is diester then I would have a preference for Redline, as POEs are better in almost every area of performance at least in base form.

I would email Redline and ask what they recommend. Bearing forces are dependent on both combustion pressures and rpm, and with a large amount of boost and 9000rpm you have both. You will probably want a high-HTHS oil to control wear under those extreme pressures, but excess viscosity will limit flow (bypass), add heat, and add drag in the turbo. Redline will give you a good recommendation.


I will do that, thanks.

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I've had the least amount of wear in my 600rwhp turbo car with a heavy conventional oil like 20-50 Superflow changed at 1,000 mile intervals. My dad has had similar results in his much more powerful turbo car too.

After reading on this board for a while, I'm going to give Redline 40wt a shot.

Not sure how this applies since mine is a low revving torque monster and yours is a high winding 4 cylinder.


Least amout of wear compared to what?

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Redline 10W40 and their 15W40 are excellent oils. M1 Silver Cap 15W50 not the Gold Cap EP version. M1 High Milage 10W40 has a nice additive package as well. Amsoil 20W50 and NEO's 20W50.

I would start with M1 15W50 after you have at least 500-1000 miles of break in on this engine. In the mean time I would use Delo400 15W40 and a can of GM EOS or STP Racers Edge added to it for the first 1000 miles. Then after the 1000 miles add the M1 15W50 and after 3000 miles take an oil sample but do not drain. This will be the refrence oil since I have personaly ran and used M1 Red cap 15W50 in a lot of Turbo Charged adn NOS equiped improts that I used to build for people. It will give you a point o refrence to judge all other oils buy since you will definately want to use UOA to pick the best oil for this engine. Th cost of the oil and the UOA is nothing compared to the price to replace the engine. Then I would start witht he most avialble and cost effective oils first and work my wy up to the more exotic and costly oils that ust be specialy ordered etc......

I would consider a sytem-1 reusable oil filter because these are biased towards flow and still good filtration.


While on the topic of break in, i would like some advice on this proceedure. The motor has just been fully rebuilt and ready to go again, i was going to use Penrite run in oil for the initial fill and dyno tune. Is this a good choice? Should i try get something a bit thinner? click here http://www.penrite.com.au/files/FU464UBCLW/RUN-PIS.pdf
The motor will be bed in on the dyno on low boost and rpm, then the oil dumped but im unsure of what to use after this and for how long? Delo 14w 40 is not available easily, would Delvac 15w 40 be ok to use instead after the initial running in? Im very hesitant to use a semi syn straight away as my engine builder has said not to do this until 3000miles, but i dont want to put a poor quality conventional in either as the motor will still be making aprox 400hp on the run in tune. I know a very reputable engine builder that swears by the Delvac 15w 40, he says it is suitable for brand new engines and will not be too slipery to glaze bores ect. In fact he recomends to never switch to a full syn and says to use the delvac all the time. This is just one persons opinion but i found it interesting anyway. He has alot of engine experience with Targa winning subaru's.

Thoughts?
 
The guys at GM Tunersource all have great success with M1 5w30 in their 900 hp Ecotec engines.

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Drag-Racing/jason-whitfield

Quote:
# roduction Chevy Cobalt Coupe body and chassis
# SFI-certified roll cage by Pauly’s Race Car Chassis
# Front-wheel-drive
# Transverse-mounted ECOtec race engine

* 900hp
* 2.16L Inline 4 cylinder
* Turbo-charged (Precision Turbo) and intercooled
* Full Race Exhaust Manifold
* 2 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI Engine Management System
* Torco 118NOS racing fuel

# Race-modified 4T65 Hydra-matic transmission
# Konig wheels with Wanli tires
# Custom Candy Red paint by Jason Gamble at Gampro
# Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic Oil


According to Jason, turbo's hold up longer with M1 and tear downs show the engines to be wear free and very clean. fwiw.
 
Red Line. I use 10w-40 in my 1,000 rwhp SS camaro. Running a PTK custom turbo kit ( 76GTS, air to water intercooled, accel DFI)and have had great results using Red Line for the last two years.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
The guys at GM Tunersource all have great success with M1 5w30 in their 900 hp Ecotec engines.

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Drag-Racing/jason-whitfield

Quote:
# roduction Chevy Cobalt Coupe body and chassis
# SFI-certified roll cage by Pauly’s Race Car Chassis
# Front-wheel-drive
# Transverse-mounted ECOtec race engine

* 900hp
* 2.16L Inline 4 cylinder
* Turbo-charged (Precision Turbo) and intercooled
* Full Race Exhaust Manifold
* 2 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI Engine Management System
* Torco 118NOS racing fuel

# Race-modified 4T65 Hydra-matic transmission
# Konig wheels with Wanli tires
# Custom Candy Red paint by Jason Gamble at Gampro
# Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic Oil


According to Jason, turbo's hold up longer with M1 and tear downs show the engines to be wear free and very clean. fwiw.


buster; are you sure that they are not using M1R, and just claiming to use the regular old, off the shelf, not even extended performance, M1 in this monster??!
 
Yeah regular M1 5w30. I was surprised. Maybe those engines are easy on oil? M1 5w30 isn't as shear stable as needed, I would think for those engine mods. It works well for them though supposedly.
 
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