5.0L Lamborghini Gallardo oil comsumption Help!

[john_pifer]

Originally Posted By: spk2000
I have always heard straight piping without proper tuning can lead to premature engine failure. Knew a guy that did it to his Chevy Truck and around 25,000 miles engine was shot. Don't understand why but I know others have said the same.


Removing mufflers reduces backpressure, making the engine freer-flowing, which will make the air-fuel mixture leaner (more air for the available fuel). That makes more power but increases temperatures, all else equal. Taken to an extreme, this can cause engine damage, up to and including holes in pistons and other catastrophic damage.

Normally, fuelling needs to be adjusted to compensate for the increased airflow potential. But it depends on the application. On some engines, removing the mufflers might not lean out the mixture enough that fuelling needs to be adjusted. On some, it will.

 

[Tman220]

Originally Posted By: spk2000
I have always heard straight piping without proper tuning can lead to premature engine failure. Knew a guy that did it to his Chevy Truck and around 25,000 miles engine was shot. Don't understand why but I know others have said the same.

Completely unrelated, any modern engine from Chevy has a MAF that will compensate for changes in airflow. Pipes will not cause engine damage, and will not cause issues with exhaust valves like tends to be another myth often claimed

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: spk2000
I have always heard straight piping without proper tuning can lead to premature engine failure. Knew a guy that did it to his Chevy Truck and around 25,000 miles engine was shot. Don't understand why but I know others have said the same.


This was primarily to do with that practice on carbureted vehicles that couldn't adjust their A/F ratio to compensate. Fuel injected vehicles will adapt to it for the most part with the only potential issue being WOT, which, while generally a richer base table, may not be modified by the adaptives and would be a bit leaner than by design. In practice, having done it on a 5.0L SEFI Ford, there is still plenty of enrichment above and beyond stoichiometric in the WOT table for this to be a non-issue.

 

[02SE]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Perhaps run Castrol "TWS" 10w-60? It's the product BMW used to help alleviate their oil consumption issues and it is generally an excellent oil.


I ran the Castrol TWS in my S85 M6 initially. I found the Redline 10w60 to perform better.

 

[Serge]

Id try so 0w20 in it. Maybe save some cha ching on fuel. Also keep RPMs under 2,000. Hope that helps.

 

[CarbonSteel]

If stuck rings truly are the problem (due to carbon), then Berryman B-12 (if available) would be the cure. An overnight soak would dissolve most, if not all of the carbon.

 

[EricWalls]

I'll try an answer some questions here:
I Paid $85,000 USD. for the car. It's a Heck of a lot a car for the money I think. My only regret is it not being a true 6-speed. Its the E-gear paddle shift.
My daily driver is an 2002 E46 M3, so I'm familiar with the Castrol TWS 10W-60. But I believe it maybe relabeled as Castrol Edge "SuperCar" oil now. " The Castrol 10w-60 SuperCar is available at my local Autozone.

If my car did have stuck rings, or even any type of oil getting past the rings in the combustion camber, would a compression test show me that? or even a Leak down test (which ive never done before)


The Gallardo is very Much an Audi/VW product, not sure about the actual engine block, or transmission but the electronics, interior buttons and switches all have Audi part #'s for the most part.

Yes that's me in the video, I had been awake all day waiting for the car to arrive, it was late & freezing outside, I was overwhelmed with everything an didn't know what to really say to the camera, but I'm still glad to have it on video. I was so much in awe that I didn't take one picture on delivery day.

Lastly I know everyone has there "favorite" oil brands but as far as oil weight I'm torn between 10w-60 (large #'s spread will shear down?) or a Less aggressive 15w-50 oil that maybe more shear stable, as my car will only be driven in the warm summer months, an put into storage during the cold ohio winter's ,...……….how thick can the oil viscosity be for cold startup protection during the Ohio summers, 10w, 15w, 20w. I don't know

 

[EricWalls]

Originally Posted By: 02SE
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Perhaps run Castrol "TWS" 10w-60? It's the product BMW used to help alleviate their oil consumption issues and it is generally an excellent oil.


I ran the Castrol TWS in my S85 M6 initially. I found the Redline 10w60 to perform better.

Less oil consumption with the Redline? I daily drive an S54 M3 and I've never tried another oil in it other then Castrol 10w-60. Im anxious to here your benefits with the Redline!

 

[SatinSilver]

Are you in southern OH since I think I noticed a slight twang that Cincinnatians have. What line of work are you in? Thanks!

 

[EricWalls]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Very nice sounding engine. You can tell she just wants to go fast.

What does the manual recommend oil wise?

It states for the 5.0L engine to use 5w-40 for normal everyday use (doesn't specify synthetic or not) then goes on to recommend 20w-50 or 20w-60 for high temperature track driving or hard aggressive street driving.

 

[RooflessVW]

The Total Quartz 10W-60 I recommended drastically slowed oil consumption in a member's BMW.

A leakdown test will show you what is leaking compression, be it rings or valve seals. A dry/wet compression test will help show the state of your rings as well.

While the plugs are out I'd scope the bores for scoring as well.

 

[EricWalls]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Are you in southern OH since I think I noticed a slight twang that Cincinnatians have. What line of work are you in? Thanks!

Small little town called Chillicothe Ohio, about 40 miles from Columbus. Surrounded by cornfields & diesel trucks. Looking to move to PHX, Arizona the beginning of 2019 However I need to get this car sorted out first. These engines are $$$ if mine has any internal issues

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: EricWalls
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Very nice sounding engine. You can tell she just wants to go fast.

What does the manual recommend oil wise?

It states for the 5.0L engine to use 5w-40 for normal everyday use (doesn't specify synthetic or not) then goes on to recommend 20w-50 or 20w-60 for high temperature track driving or hard aggressive street driving.



To be more specific, I believe the spec is for VW 502/505 oils which would be synthetic. Mostly 5w40s and 0w40s.

 

[Mr Nice]

Nice car.

Kreen, then 10w40 Redline syn oil.

 

[02SE]

Originally Posted By: EricWalls
Originally Posted By: 02SE
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Perhaps run Castrol "TWS" 10w-60? It's the product BMW used to help alleviate their oil consumption issues and it is generally an excellent oil.


I ran the Castrol TWS in my S85 M6 initially. I found the Redline 10w60 to perform better.

Less oil consumption with the Redline? I daily drive an S54 M3 and I've never tried another oil in it other then Castrol 10w-60. Im anxious to here your benefits with the Redline!


While consumption wasn't bad on the TWS, there was some. So less oil consumption, better UOA wear numbers, and anecdotally, the engine just seems to run smoother.

 

[02SE]

Originally Posted By: EricWalls
My only regret is it not being a true 6-speed. Its the E-gear paddle shift.


Nice car BTW.

I understand where you're coming from with the desire for a manual trans. Both my M6 and Viper are 6-speed manuals. Yes, the paddle-shifted manual transmissions shift faster, but I just enjoy the connection with the cars manually shifting through the gears.

Although my BIL is trying to convince me to buy his PDK trans equipped car, which is a lot of fun too.

I'd just enjoy your car for what it is: One heck of a machine.

 

[fdcg27]

I had no idea that these things were still so expensive.
These cars seem not subject to the usual high depreciation one typically sees with high-end Euro cars.
This is a very attractive car. I would imagine that with open pipes your car makes an amazing and wonderful noise when run hard.
Really high oil consumption in a low hours/miles engine is usually although not always a coked ring problem and not caused by valve guide or seal wear.
I'd absolutely proceed on that assumption and make efforts to free up the rings.
The Valvoline oil someone suggested above is costly and would be very much so in enough quantity to fill this engine's dry sump system. Still, if its good enough for Cummins to actually recommend its use, it probably does work in cleaning hard carbon from rings. There are also well documented cases of people freeing coked up rings with Kreen, although none of them had Italian exoticar V-10s.
You also note correctly that tearing into this engine would involve $$$.
You have $85K in this car so it might be worth spending some time researching possible solutions and then implementing one. If all else fails, using a thicker oil in Southern OH during the warmer months should be no issue.
Incidentally, I know exactly where Chillicothe is and have been there. I recall two large state prisons, one of which used to be a federal joint, an OU branch and the Native American mounds.

 

[1JZ_E46]

I had good results with ATP AT-205 Re Seal. It is an advanced seal conditioner. I was smoking from valve stems seals and that has stopped. Stick with a quality A3/B4 “Euro” oil with all the manufacturer approvals (A40, LL-01, etc.) . You’re not going to solve leaky valve stems with thicker oil.

 

[ctechbob]

If it were stuck rings it would be an excellent experiment for that new Valvoline $73 a gallon stuff.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4791785/1


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4230571/Valvoline_Premium_Blue_Restore

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I had no idea that these things were still so expensive.
These cars seem not subject to the usual high depreciation one typically sees with high-end Euro cars.
This is a very attractive car. I would imagine that with open pipes your car makes an amazing and wonderful noise when run hard.
Really high oil consumption in a low hours/miles engine is usually although not always a coked ring problem and not caused by valve guide or seal wear.
I'd absolutely proceed on that assumption and make efforts to free up the rings.
The Valvoline oil someone suggested above is costly and would be very much so in enough quantity to fill this engine's dry sump system. Still, if its good enough for Cummins to actually recommend its use, it probably does work in cleaning hard carbon from rings. There are also well documented cases of people freeing coked up rings with Kreen, although none of them had Italian exoticar V-10s.
You also note correctly that tearing into this engine would involve $$$.
You have $85K in this car so it might be worth spending some time researching possible solutions and then implementing one. If all else fails, using a thicker oil in Southern OH during the warmer months should be no issue.
Incidentally, I know exactly where Chillicothe is and have been there. I recall two large state prisons, one of which used to be a federal joint, an OU branch and the Native American mounds.


The countach made it into almost exotic but affordable ranks down here...but has recently taken off.

I agree, if it were mine, I'd be exploring chemical means to get it to go.


Connect with Molakule, and see if he'd recommend LC20...
http://www.lcdinc.com/tests_dyson.php

Connect with Terry Dyson.

Explore those products, autoRx, and the Valvoline restore product.

Avoid a teardown...guys who are good at exotic makes are expensive. Hacks to address exotic makes mean problems down the track.