4 cylinders 600hp 9000rpm, best protection?

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I'd be picking Motul 300V, in the 10W40 flavour. The beauty is you can find it at any Autobarn store and some good auto part places.

300V is NOT the old school "di-ester" as some people have suggested. It is their new "Double Ester" which more info can be found here;

http://www.motul.com.au/fact_sheets/estel_oil.html

I use 300V 5W30 in my SR20DET engine which is making over 400 crank hp.
 
bump, can anyone give me some answers to the questions on the previous page?

Originally Posted By: 4banga
Firstly thanks everyone for your replies, much appreciated.

Originally Posted By: Turbo_777
Motul 300V would be my bet. The 10w40 works very well, but if you run it a bit hot with some over fueling maybe try the 15w-50...most of the scoobie boys here in SA use the latter and love it.


I was initially leaning towards motul as i know one of their rep's, he can get me decent discounts on any of their products. Though i want which ever oil is best for the engine, not which is best value.

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Either of the Redline oils.....that's exactly what they're made for!


Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Motul 300V is diester, and Red Line is polyol ester. Both are also big on moly, which will probably be good in this application. In 10w-40, they are among the stoutest lubricants you can get.

I'd say there is definitely a benefit to an oil formulated with racing in mind. It will have better shear stability etc. Strict race oils are sort of a mixed bag, however; while Motul 300V 10w-40 is formulated for endurance racing and will have at least some additives suitable for street use, that is not the case for Red Line's race oils.

Regarding viscosity, I would stick with a 40-weight if possible. Going thicker has benefits but will also increase drag and internal temps.

I like the idea of a 10w-40 full syn. It'll have no polymeric VIIs and be formulated for some heavy stress, but still have good cold flow.

Of the oils in the short list, the Motul and Red Line 10w-40s would be my top picks.


How about running a 50/50 mix of redline 10w 40 with their 40wt or 50wt race oil? This would give the race oil some detergents that i need for the street. Thoughts?

Originally Posted By: coffee
Well, if you want over the counter oil you could probably use Rotella T Syn 5w40 or M1 TDT 5w40. Not sure what is available for purchase in Australia though. I would recommend Schaeffer oil if it was available where you live as well.


Both those oils arent easily available in Australia, Redline and Motul are however. Penrite is another one which i can get easily, unfortunatley i havent heard much about it.
Some info on Penrite here:
0w 50 http://www.penrite.com.au/files/HTU92EHCZC/SIN Engine Oil 0.pdf
15w 40 http://www.penrite.com.au/files/MSSN64XZ5N/SIN EngineOil 15 and 25.pdf
Anyone seen a VOA on these?


Originally Posted By: glennc
If 300V is diester then I would have a preference for Redline, as POEs are better in almost every area of performance at least in base form.

I would email Redline and ask what they recommend. Bearing forces are dependent on both combustion pressures and rpm, and with a large amount of boost and 9000rpm you have both. You will probably want a high-HTHS oil to control wear under those extreme pressures, but excess viscosity will limit flow (bypass), add heat, and add drag in the turbo. Redline will give you a good recommendation.


I will do that, thanks.

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I've had the least amount of wear in my 600rwhp turbo car with a heavy conventional oil like 20-50 Superflow changed at 1,000 mile intervals. My dad has had similar results in his much more powerful turbo car too.

After reading on this board for a while, I'm going to give Redline 40wt a shot.

Not sure how this applies since mine is a low revving torque monster and yours is a high winding 4 cylinder.


Least amout of wear compared to what?

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
Redline 10W40 and their 15W40 are excellent oils. M1 Silver Cap 15W50 not the Gold Cap EP version. M1 High Milage 10W40 has a nice additive package as well. Amsoil 20W50 and NEO's 20W50.

I would start with M1 15W50 after you have at least 500-1000 miles of break in on this engine. In the mean time I would use Delo400 15W40 and a can of GM EOS or STP Racers Edge added to it for the first 1000 miles. Then after the 1000 miles add the M1 15W50 and after 3000 miles take an oil sample but do not drain. This will be the refrence oil since I have personaly ran and used M1 Red cap 15W50 in a lot of Turbo Charged adn NOS equiped improts that I used to build for people. It will give you a point o refrence to judge all other oils buy since you will definately want to use UOA to pick the best oil for this engine. Th cost of the oil and the UOA is nothing compared to the price to replace the engine. Then I would start witht he most avialble and cost effective oils first and work my wy up to the more exotic and costly oils that ust be specialy ordered etc......

I would consider a sytem-1 reusable oil filter because these are biased towards flow and still good filtration.


While on the topic of break in, i would like some advice on this proceedure. The motor has just been fully rebuilt and ready to go again, i was going to use Penrite run in oil for the initial fill and dyno tune. Is this a good choice? Should i try get something a bit thinner? click here http://www.penrite.com.au/files/FU464UBCLW/RUN-PIS.pdf
The motor will be bed in on the dyno on low boost and rpm, then the oil dumped but im unsure of what to use after this and for how long? Delo 14w 40 is not available easily, would Delvac 15w 40 be ok to use instead after the initial running in? Im very hesitant to use a semi syn straight away as my engine builder has said not to do this until 3000miles, but i dont want to put a poor quality conventional in either as the motor will still be making aprox 400hp on the run in tune. I know a very reputable engine builder that swears by the Delvac 15w 40, he says it is suitable for brand new engines and will not be too slipery to glaze bores ect. In fact he recomends to never switch to a full syn and says to use the delvac all the time. This is just one persons opinion but i found it interesting anyway. He has alot of engine experience with Targa winning subaru's.

Thoughts?
 
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On the topic of mixing oils, I don't think it'd be worth it. Either your engine needs a race oil or it doesn't.

In fact, if the street-safe oils can't handle your engine, it's probably not something you should be driving on the street anyway...



EDIT: I apologize for the mistake regarding 300V's base. Thanks for the catch.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
On the topic of mixing oils, I don't think it'd be worth it. Either your engine needs a race oil or it doesn't.


I agree.
IF you decide to use Red Line and feel the need to mix, I would stick with their multi grade street oils and mix 10W-40 with 20W-50.
The main question is do you need their straight weight race oils due to your exceptionally high revs and the possibility of foaming/aeration of detergent containing street oils???

'Experts'??
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
The main question is do you need their straight weight race oils due to your exceptionally high revs and the possibility of foaming/aeration of detergent containing street oils???

Good question.

To the OP, what's the rod/stroke ratio, and what's been done with the oiling system?
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
The main question is do you need their straight weight race oils due to your exceptionally high revs and the possibility of foaming/aeration of detergent containing street oils???

Good question.

To the OP, what's the rod/stroke ratio, and what's been done with the oiling system?


bore is 87(stock bore is 86), stroke is 88. The oiling system is stock, i dont think these engines suffer from any oiling problems with the stock setup. If anything they can suffer from too much oil pressure due to ballance shaft removal.



This is the email reply i got from REDLINE, looks like they didnt take my bigger than stock bearing clearences into account.

Jacob,

Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil, in your Lancer for all around
use with stock internal clearances I would recommend the 10W30.
Our Race oils are a broad viscosity, they don't contain the
detergents or other additives needed for an extended drain interval.
I wouldn't see an advantage for most street applications to mix our
motor oil with the Race Oil.

Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil


They still didnt really answer my question if the race oil will have any benefits for me.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
The guys at GM Tunersource all have great success with M1 5w30 in their 900 hp Ecotec engines.

http://tunersource.gmblogs.com/Drag-Racing/jason-whitfield

Quote:
# roduction Chevy Cobalt Coupe body and chassis
# SFI-certified roll cage by Pauly’s Race Car Chassis
# Front-wheel-drive
# Transverse-mounted ECOtec race engine

* 900hp
* 2.16L Inline 4 cylinder
* Turbo-charged (Precision Turbo) and intercooled
* Full Race Exhaust Manifold
* 2 injectors per cylinder with FAST XFI Engine Management System
* Torco 118NOS racing fuel

# Race-modified 4T65 Hydra-matic transmission
# Konig wheels with Wanli tires
# Custom Candy Red paint by Jason Gamble at Gampro
# Mobil 1 5w30 Synthetic Oil


According to Jason, turbo's hold up longer with M1 and tear downs show the engines to be wear free and very clean. fwiw.


Hi Buster,

Although I do think the M1 5-30 would work, I see the applications as quite different...one being a street racer/road car and the other a 1/4 drag car...the stress on the road car oil (in my view) would be quite a lot more as it has do deal with a host of additional issue than just 7, 8, 9...seconds worth of stress then get turned off and run again in an hour or two. Just my 2 cents...

Im still in favor of Motul 300v as its additive pack is not a strict 1 race type oil, maybe do a UOA at 5000km and take it from there.

cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Turbo_777
Although I do think the M1 5-30 would work, I see the applications as quite different...one being a street racer/road car and the other a 1/4 drag car...the stress on the road car oil (in my view) would be quite a lot more as it has do deal with a host of additional issue than just 7, 8, 9...seconds worth of stress then get turned off and run again in an hour or two.


True.

They also have the luxury/funds to change that M1 5W-30 in between each and every pass if they feel the need to, or if they have any concerns about; shear, dilution, etc.
 
Thats true. He did say however, they go 4 races on the same oil. They don't rely on oil analysis and only perform tear downs.
 
Originally Posted By: 4banga
bore is 87(stock bore is 86), stroke is 88.

The question was about the rod/stroke ratio, not the bore/stroke ratio. Do you know what that ratio is, or at least how long the rods are?


Originally Posted By: 4banga
The oiling system is stock, i dont think these engines suffer from any oiling problems with the stock setup. If anything they can suffer from too much oil pressure due to ballance shaft removal.

If the oiling system is stock and oil pressure tends to be on the high side when you remove the balance shafts, you don't want oil that's too much thicker than stock. A 10w-40 should be perfect.


Originally Posted By: 4banga
They still didnt really answer my question if the race oil will have any benefits for me.

It's pretty much a given that the race oils will protect better in the short term, especially with hard use. That's the benefit. The problem is that if you drive your car on the street, a race oil still might allow crud to build up no matter how often you change it.
 
Originally Posted By: 4banga
They still didnt really answer my question if the race oil will have any benefits for me.

Quote:

It's pretty much a given that the race oils will protect better in the short term, especially with hard use. That's the benefit. The problem is that if you drive your car on the street, a race oil still might allow crud to build up no matter how often you change it.


yes i understand this hence my question about mixing it 50/50.
I will probably go with the Redline 10w 40 or Motul 10w 40, most here agree this would be a good place to start.


While on the topic of break in, i would like some advice on this. The motor has just been fully rebuilt and ready to go again, i was going to use Penrite run in oil for the initial fill and dyno tune. Is this a good choice? Should i try get something a bit thinner? click here http://www.penrite.com.au/files/FU464UBCLW/RUN-PIS.pdf
The motor will be bed in on the dyno on low boost and rpm, then the oil dumped but im unsure of what to use after this and for how long? Delo 14w 40 is not available easily, would Delvac 15w 40 be ok to use instead after the initial running in? Im very hesitant to use a semi syn straight away as my engine builder has said not to do this until 3000miles, but i dont want to put a poor quality conventional in either as the motor will still be making aprox 400hp on the run in tune. I know a very reputable engine builder that swears by the Delvac 15w 40, he says it is suitable for brand new engines and will not be too slipery to glaze bores ect. In fact he recomends to never switch to a full syn and says to use the delvac all the time. This is just one persons opinion but i found it interesting anyway. He has alot of engine experience with Targa winning subaru's. Will the 15w 40 Delvac be ok to use to run my engine in?

Thoughts?

[/quote]
 
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Delvac 15W40 will be perfectly fine for engine run in. The extra ZDDP is a bonus. You can then use Delvac 1 5w40 afterwards if you wish!!
 
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