427w Oil Recommendation

Messages
16
I hate myself for even asking this, I just need y'all to know that ahead of time...oil recommendation time because I'm overthinking this. I have a lot of money in this engine and want nothing but the best possible protection for it.

I have a new Dart block 427 Windsor. It has a forged 2.75” main bearing crank, forged rods, and 4032 pistons. It is 10.8:1 compression, running 93 pump gas, and made 635hp last week on the engine dyno. RPMs will be staying under 7000 (and typically under 6500). This is a hydraulic roller cam engine. The engine builder recommended 5w-40 or 10w-40. Main bearing clearance of .0020-.0025 and rod bearings are .0025-.0028. I live in Arkansas, so not too bad with real cold temps. I don’t have any vacuum on the crankcase, but do have a filtered breather in each valve cover.

The car is track and AutoX primarily. I AutoCross one weekend a month (8 runs per day, 45 seconds or so for each run) and typically do 2 track days a year. The track days consist of around 6-8 20 minute sessions per day, 2 days in a row. They’re at Hallett Motor Racing Circuit in Oklahoma in June, so it gets to over 100* ambient while we’re running. I will occasionally take it for a drive or spirited cruise, maybe once or twice a month, but it’s fairly rare. I always let it warm up a little before taking off and I don't thrash on my engines while cold. I drive around for a bit before really getting on it.

My initial thought is to use a good quality oil like Royal Purple XPR or one of the Amsoil racing oils. But my concern is how much time the car spends sitting outside without being started. I need an oil that will prevent rust inside the engine while it’s sitting but still protect it adequately while it’s being driven hard on the track. I’m also open to using one oil for normal driving and AutoCross and changing over to something a little "racier" for good track day protection. I usually change the oil before the two track days (or before the AutoX the week before, depending on time), then change it afterward and pull the valve covers off and cut the oil filter to check things out.

What are y'alls thoughts here? Good synthetic oil for the street that can also handle some track abuse? Or good street oil and switch out for the road course? Recommendations on a specific brand/series of oil?

Sorry for the long message! This is a new engine after my old 351 cracked a piston. So I want to take very good care of it and protect my investment!
 

GimpyHSHS

Thread starter
Messages
16
It seems there's a lot of love for the Mobil 1 oils on here from the other threads I perused and what people have recommended so far here. What is the basis for that? I'm not doubting here by any means, just curious because it seems that a lot of people are Royal Purple and Amsoil folks elsewhere. There's Mobil 1 folks, too, of course, but not as many it seems like on other sites.

I don't have an issue running the 0W-40 vs the 5W-40. It doesn't get real cold here, but I can't see it hurting anything. I am considering an oil cooler and Accusump down the road, Accusump mainly to give it oil pressure before cranking since it sits so much, but also for when I put more rubber on it.

How about oil filters? Don't really want to overkill there, is there a good filter that is the go-to for use with synthetic oil on a higher RPM engine? Is there even a concern about flow, etc, using a standard filter vs a "racing" filter? I used Wix 51515R on the old engine. I use FL-1A on my truck.
 

OVERKILL

$100 Site Donor 2021
Messages
46,489
Location
Ontario, Canada
It seems there's a lot of love for the Mobil 1 oils on here from the other threads I perused and what people have recommended so far here. What is the basis for that? I'm not doubting here by any means, just curious because it seems that a lot of people are Royal Purple and Amsoil folks elsewhere. There's Mobil 1 folks, too, of course, but not as many it seems like on other sites.

I don't have an issue running the 0W-40 vs the 5W-40. It doesn't get real cold here, but I can't see it hurting anything. I am considering an oil cooler and Accusump down the road, Accusump mainly to give it oil pressure before cranking since it sits so much, but also for when I put more rubber on it.

How about oil filters? Don't really want to overkill there, is there a good filter that is the go-to for use with synthetic oil on a higher RPM engine? Is there even a concern about flow, etc, using a standard filter vs a "racing" filter? I used Wix 51515R on the old engine. I use FL-1A on my truck.

FRAM Ultra or the AMSOIL EaO are both excellent glass media filters which would work well in this application.

M1 0w-40, and any oil that has A40 and the other Euro approvals on it, has had to go through an absolutely obscene amount of real-world testing. It's the oil of choice for many of the 24hr races, used at Sebring and LeMans and by numerous factory race teams. It was also the factory fill for numerous high performance cars including anything saying "AMG" on it coming out of Mercedes, Porsche...etc.
 
Messages
1,929
Location
South Carolina
High Performance Lubricants Bad *ss 5w-40 is what I would use.

 

GimpyHSHS

Thread starter
Messages
16
I just ordered the Mobil 1 European Spec 0W-40 FS a little earlier. I can't see any issue running it and it seems to be very popular with people doing dual duty with their engines. Plus, at $22 for 5 quarts on Amazon...hard not to want to use it if it's as good as some of the more expensive oils 🤷‍♂️ a little cheaper means I can change it more often and not have a hurting wallet.

Went ahead and picked up 3 jugs to last me this oil change and the next...I think after 18ish pulls on the dyno, it's probably safe to drain the 30wt out and put the new oil in. Also have a dipstick on the way I am going to figure out how to route around the headers before the engine goes into the car.

Can't wait to get this thing in and going!

182423656_296762298618742_4593393727085146633_n.jpg
183187752_515657652769371_7651631581297213128_n (1).jpg
183849126_2266604166808748_1501875426267922347_n (1).jpg
184051425_474028727144530_3918895836138605001_n (1).jpg
 
Messages
361
Location
Australia
Run what the engine builder suggested, If you go with a synthetic oil filter the royal purple has the best flow and very good capture. No need to run 0w-40 but I doubt it will hurt.
 
Messages
361
Location
Australia
Any of the glass media filters should flow very similar to each other which includes the EaO, RP, Fram Ultra, Purolator Synthetic...etc.
Well actually according to @Ascent Filtration Testing the three synthetics RP, Puro and the Fram didn't flow as well as the WIX XP. So, I'm happy to be wrong. K&N did well on engine masters, don't know if that's worth much but that's what I run on my Ford with 600HP.
 
Last edited:

OVERKILL

$100 Site Donor 2021
Messages
46,489
Location
Ontario, Canada
Well actually according to @Ascent Filtration Testing the three synthetics RP, Puro and the Fram didn't flow as well as the WIX XP. So, I'm happy to be wrong. K&N did well on engine masters, don't know if that's worth much but that's what I run on my Ford with 600HP.

No, the engine masters test was pretty much worthless, I'd recommend checking out my commentary on it in the filtration section.

On the Wix XP, that doesn't surprise me, it has significantly poorer filtration efficiency from what I recall, so I'd expect it to flow better. Of the group you just mentioned (plus the EaO) they should all flow similarly since they are all very close in efficiency.
 
Messages
1,111
Location
Northern, NY
The engine builder recommended 5w-40 or 10w-40...But my concern is how much time the car spends sitting outside without being started. I need an oil that will prevent rust inside the engine while it’s sitting but still protect it adequately while it’s being driven hard on the track.

I would use Amsoil Z-ROD 10w-40. It is available in the viscosity recommended by your engine builder, and is formulated to prevent corrosion in storage.

 

GimpyHSHS

Thread starter
Messages
16
You have a purpose built high performance engine with high valve spring pressure etc. Why not use Valvoline VR1 Racing oil?

Valve spring pressures are reasonable since it's a hydraulic roller cam. I can't recall them off the top of my head. If it were a solid roller or a flat tappet, I might consider running a more racey oil. I'm also hoping I can take more normal drives in this car with the more reliable engine and redoing some things, which a street-oriented oil would be better for.
 

getawheel

Site Donor 2021
Messages
519
Location
Gainesville, FL
I just ordered the Mobil 1 European Spec 0W-40 FS a little earlier. I can't see any issue running it and it seems to be very popular with people doing dual duty with their engines. Plus, at $22 for 5 quarts on Amazon...hard not to want to use it if it's as good as some of the more expensive oils 🤷‍♂️ a little cheaper means I can change it more often and not have a hurting wallet.

Went ahead and picked up 3 jugs to last me this oil change and the next...I think after 18ish pulls on the dyno, it's probably safe to drain the 30wt out and put the new oil in. Also have a dipstick on the way I am going to figure out how to route around the headers before the engine goes into the car.

Can't wait to get this thing in and going!

View attachment 56856 View attachment 56855 View attachment 56854 View attachment 56853
I like your serpentine belt pulley setup. I’ve done a similar thing on a few of the big block Chryslers I’ve built lately.
 

GimpyHSHS

Thread starter
Messages
16
I like your serpentine belt pulley setup. I’ve done a similar thing on a few of the big block Chryslers I’ve built lately.

Thanks! This engine is going in my 1995 Mustang. The serpentine setup is stock for that engine. The driver side bracket is the stock 5.0l one from the car and the alternator bracket is a Speed Doctor Racing one. I think it looks killer as opposed to the factory one that had the alternator right on top. Also allowed me to eliminate the smog delete pulley. I'm gonna take the AC Delete pulley off too, as I can route the belt around just the power steering pulley. Weight savings lol. Plus, one less idler pulley that can fail or allow it to throw the belt. And better wrap on the power steering, important with road race tracks and AutoX on stickier tires. I wish Aaron from Speed Doctor would finish up the power steering bracket so I can install it, too.
 

getawheel

Site Donor 2021
Messages
519
Location
Gainesville, FL
Thanks! This engine is going in my 1995 Mustang. The serpentine setup is stock for that engine. The driver side bracket is the stock 5.0l one from the car and the alternator bracket is a Speed Doctor Racing one. I think it looks killer as opposed to the factory one that had the alternator right on top. Also allowed me to eliminate the smog delete pulley. I'm gonna take the AC Delete pulley off too, as I can route the belt around just the power steering pulley. Weight savings lol. Plus, one less idler pulley that can fail or allow it to throw the belt. And better wrap on the power steering, important with road race tracks and AutoX on stickier tires. I wish Aaron from Speed Doctor would finish up the power steering bracket so I can install it, too.
Nice. I guess that is a stock accessory bracket on the driver’s side, it was the alternator bracket and PS pulley which caught my eye. I like the alternator placement as opposed to having it up top; just looks cleaner.

81A2709D-D4B6-4DC5-94FE-AF39492CF0E8.jpeg

I bought this kit a couple years ago at SEMA; didn’t line up very well but I made it work. Went and saw a buddy of mine with a CNC... we took measurements and cut our own brackets. Used that setup on a couple other engines I built. I’ll never build a street car with a v-belt again.
 
Top