300 miles into MMO treatment
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what engine is it?
try some diesel oil for a couple thousand miles. thet cured my lifter ticking.
try some diesel oil for a couple thousand miles. thet cured my lifter ticking.
unDummy, I've just done a lot of reading about engine noise. I'll describe the symtoms to you. I never hear a tick when the engine/oil is cold. But after about 10 minutes, when I'm on the highway and running 70mph/2500rpms, the tick will start, and the oil pressure drops (because of being warm??) from 80psi to about 70psi. Then it'll tick until I get off the highway. I just assumed it was clogged lifters. If you know different, tell me. I'm using an STP filter.
My radiator/thermostat were weak for about a year before they went out, and we replaced them.All the hoses and stuff were replaced too. The thermostat would get real hot, and then drop down. But now, it just gets hot, and stays constant. No more overheating. Some antifreeze does leak out of the engine, but I always check and top it off.
My oil gauge is an OEM in dash. I have not tracked the tick with a screwdriver. I'm pretty sure the tick is at all RPMs, but to hear it while at cold idle the hood has to be open. After I get off the highway, it will tick at idle until I begin accelerating and the oil pressure goes up. Then it stops (at least, I cant hear it from inside the car) until about 2200 RPM.
My owners manual says to use 10W-30 year round...but it says if its above 60 degrees outside, I can use 5W-30. So I'm not sure why the oil would be too hot/thin if I'm using manufacturer recommendations. What is the difference with 10W-40 as opposed to 10W-30?
Tiny exhaust leak can make a ticking noise that come and goes as parts heat up and expand or warp.
My f150 has this going on right now, , tics for about the 1st 2-3 minutes of cold run time then never does it again all day.
My f150 has this going on right now, , tics for about the 1st 2-3 minutes of cold run time then never does it again all day.
wileyE, I have read that before. As of last inspection, the only exhaust leak was in my muffler (rust) and I had that replaced with a deeper, "muscle car-ish" muffler...very nice. So, no leaks. Also I read that to tick, the leak must be close enough to the exhaust valves to cause a timing problem.
Why quote the owners manual? Did you read it when you decided on the pathetic vehicle maintenance performed over its life?
You have low oil pressure from excessive wear throughout the engine.
MMO wan't the solution. But, you still have 2700 miles until the next change. Fock the owners manual and use a thicker oil. Pretty simple.
If it doesn't work, then try something else.
You have low oil pressure from excessive wear throughout the engine.
MMO wan't the solution. But, you still have 2700 miles until the next change. Fock the owners manual and use a thicker oil. Pretty simple.
If it doesn't work, then try something else.
Its normal for gauge pressure to be higher when cold and to drop when hot.
Hows your cooling system holding out?
Is that an OEM in dash gauge? or aftermarket?
Have you tracked the tick using mechanics stethoscope or large screwdriver?
Is this a tick at all rpms or just when idling?
If it is the engine(and not the PS/waterpumps), and only when hot, your oil might be too thin/hot.
Change the thermostat antifreeze belts, and at your next oil change, switch to a 40wt oil. Also try a different oil filter(like purolator/proline).
Hows your cooling system holding out?
Is that an OEM in dash gauge? or aftermarket?
Have you tracked the tick using mechanics stethoscope or large screwdriver?
Is this a tick at all rpms or just when idling?
If it is the engine(and not the PS/waterpumps), and only when hot, your oil might be too thin/hot.
Change the thermostat antifreeze belts, and at your next oil change, switch to a 40wt oil. Also try a different oil filter(like purolator/proline).
I ran 25% MMO along with 10W30 synth oil for around 7K miles and it didn't stop lifter ticking with a 146K mile Nissan V6. I only had one lifter ticking that took a little persuasion to go away when cold...rev it up some.
Then I went with 75% 15W40 diesel oil - 25% 10W30 synth...ticking stops as soon as the oil gauge starts to show pressure.
Then I went with 75% 15W40 diesel oil - 25% 10W30 synth...ticking stops as soon as the oil gauge starts to show pressure.
If a good dose of MMO does not get it, like suggested above, try thicker oil. I've gone from 5w-30 to 10w-30 to 10w-40 to 15w-50 to 20w-50 in a Honda Civic over 375k miles. Some of the steps were decided by little ticking noises and it worked. BTW I use MMO every time the engine starts to smoke a little and that works, too, lots of miles, no overhaul and no smoking.
gotek, thanks for your reply. That is what I expected to see from people. But I have almost the exact opposite problem: when i start the car, it sounds like its starting "dry" and then the pressure comes up, with no tick at all. Then when it warms up (highway) it will tick. Strange stuff. Can someone explain to me what xW-xx means? ex. 10W-30.
I ran ARX for 1500 in the Festiva and then ran the rinse oil 1500 miles and added Lube Control. 2500 miles later, on the same oil, the engine is so quiet I often think it's died.
I've got the 3.3 V6 in a '90 Cutlass with about 190K on it. Make sure that noise isn't the fuel injectors. It can be tricky to diagnose. I too thought it was the lifters until I "scoped" it. Piece of wood on different parts of the engine and place ear at the other end and I could then easily tell it was the injectors. One of those noises you just learn to live with.
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