2 Valvoline Restore & Protect tests

Not talking about oil cooling, Newton's law doesn't apply. Did you take engineering thermo? Repeat, it's hot out, the engine is hotter, the oil is almost at engine temp. Since engine oil is not alive, it doesnt matter that it's hot out. You can safely use the factory spec viscosity. Most cars take 0w20 at the moment. "Thicker oil" only hurts lubrication. Word? Everybody knows which properties Blackstone labs uses to tell you the oil was run too much. Nothing mechanical is in the Bible
 
Not talking about oil cooling, Newton's law doesn't apply. Did you take engineering thermo? Repeat, it's hot out, the engine is hotter, the oil is almost at engine temp. Since engine oil is not alive, it doesnt matter that it's hot out. You can safely use the factory spec viscosity. Most cars take 0w20 at the moment. "Thicker oil" only hurts lubrication. Word? Everybody knows which properties Blackstone labs uses to tell you the oil was run too much. Nothing mechanical is in the Bible
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What in the wide wide world of sports is a going on here?

So TBN is the only thing that matters, per you.

Avery4 listed a few other things that matter, per him.

But oil cooling, that was definitely the gist of the conversation.

And sure it is. There are distinct instructions for building this doohicky that carried the slabs o' rock Moses carried down the mountain. That is mechanical. And in the Old Testament. The Old Testament is in the Bible.

But I jest, I jest, you are most certainly an exshpert, so thank you for that valuable lesson.

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Not talking about oil cooling, Newton's law doesn't apply. Did you take engineering thermo? Repeat, it's hot out, the engine is hotter, the oil is almost at engine temp. Since engine oil is not alive, it doesnt matter that it's hot out. You can safely use the factory spec viscosity. Most cars take 0w20 at the moment. "Thicker oil" only hurts lubrication. Word? Everybody knows which properties Blackstone labs uses to tell you the oil was run too much. Nothing mechanical is in the Bible
You have ambient temperature confused with humidity. Humidity doesn’t affect engine temperature. But when the ambient temperature is higher the differential is less causing less efficient cooling along with higher oil temps. My factory oil temp gauge does show this on hotter days.
 
You have ambient temperature confused with humidity. Humidity doesn’t affect engine temperature. But when the ambient temperature is higher the differential is less causing less efficient cooling along with higher oil temps. My factory oil temp gauge does show this on hotter days.
That would be very dependent on the engine and cooling system design as well as operating conditions. Some engines (especially those with dedicated oil coolers) control their oil temps very well, others not so much.

Operating conditions would be a big variable too. In extremely high load and ambient temp conditions that overload the cooling system and result in coolant temps significantly above the thermostat's setpoint, measurably higher oil temps are almost guaranteed. The reverse is also true if the loads and ambient temps are so low that the coolant never warms up fully.

Less efficient cooling of the radiator at high ambient temperatures may not mean higher engine temperatures, it may just mean that the thermostat opens more and/or the fan runs more to keep temps within a normal range.
 
That would be very dependent on the engine and cooling system design as well as operating conditions. Some engines (especially those with dedicated oil coolers) control their oil temps very well, others not so much.

Operating conditions would be a big variable too. In extremely high load and ambient temp conditions that overload the cooling system and result in coolant temps significantly above the thermostat's setpoint, measurably higher oil temps are almost guaranteed. The reverse is also true if the loads and ambient temps are so low that the coolant never warms up fully.

Less efficient cooling of the radiator at high ambient temperatures may not mean higher engine temperatures, it may just mean that the thermostat opens more and/or the fan runs more to keep temps within a normal range.
I agree 100%. My point was that ambient temperature does have an affect(on thermostat or temp if radiator can’t keep up.) Humidity does not.
 
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Good grief people! The OP started a thread to document his/her test and experiment with VR&P. I really don't think he/she was asking the community "which oil cleans the best". Perhaps the "which oil cleans the best" question should be its own stand alone thread. And perhaps this thread already exists; I don't know.

OP- as an owner of one old vehicle in my family of vehicles, thank you for starting this thread and I look forward to your findings. This oil is new and while it looks promising, only tests/experiments such as you are doing will tell if this is just marketing hype or a product that actually does as advertised. Carry on!
 
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Good grief people! The OP started a thread to document his/her test and experiment with VR&P. I really don't think he/she was asking the community "which oil cleans the best". Perhaps the "which oil cleans the best" question should be its own stand alone thread. And perhaps this thread already exists; I don't know.

OP- as an owner of one old vehicle in my family of vehicles, thank you for starting this thread and I look forward to your findings. This oil is new and while it looks promising, only tests/experiments such as you are doing will tell if this is just marketing hype or a product that actually does as advertised. Carry on!
 
Great points. Like I said in another post, these engines also seem somewhat prone to oil sludge by design judging by how many develop cold lifter tick over time. Hopefully modern synthetic oil, frequent oil changes, plenty of long trips, and a clean PCV valve prevents this from happening again once it's cleaned up.

Mechanically it still seems very healthy judging by the fact that it has 180-185 PSI on all cylinders, doesn't seem to burn any oil, runs and sounds great once warmed up, and has very minimal wear on the one rod bearing I checked while I had the oil pan off, so I don't think it's at much risk of dying any time soon.
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I would expect the worst wear on the other half of the bearing, the one that bears the combustion load.
 
I would expect the worst wear on the other half of the bearing, the one that bears the combustion load.
Great point. I unfortunately don't have a picture of it, but the upper half looked great too, not much different than the bottom half. I didn't take it out, but I turned the crank so I could see it.

I have seen engines where the bottom half looked totally fine and the upper half was severely worn though, so you have to be careful assuming that the bearings are okay just by the bottom half.

Considering the fact that the engine runs so quietly that I thought it died out several times while standing right next to the car, I don't expect to find any worn bearings or other issues when I tear the engine down.
 
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