Valvoline Restore and Protect 2003 Tahoe 5.3 228,000 miles initial observations

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Thought I'd offer my experience to date with 5w-30 Restore and Protect.

A little vehicle background:

I have a 2003 Tahoe 5.3 with approx. 228k miles. It was dealer maintained, CarFax confirmed, up until 197k miles when I purchased it. I did change the valve cover gasket after purchase and the engine was very clean. I've used Valvoline high mileage early on and the previous two oil changes had switched to Pennzoil Platinum high mileage. It has the somewhat common LS piston slap that goes away after 30-60 seconds depending on the season. It hasn't changed or gotten worse since I purchased the truck. It also would consume about quart of oil about every 1300 miles.

My experience first 500 miles of R&P:

1. My oil consumption was nil. Didn't expect this since I assumed it was ring and/or cylinder wear.
2. Slight oil pressure increase. I didn't check it with my scan tool, but I've gained roughly 3 psi of oil pressure across the board according to the gauge.
3. Substantially reduced audible piston slap. I'd say roughly a 50% reduction in the time it's clearly audible.

I assumed that the last two could be related to fresh oil change, but as of 500 miles they still hold true.

Just my experience yours may vary.

_Tim

Great forum BTW.
 
Thought I'd offer my experience to date with 5w-30 Restore and Protect.

A little vehicle background:

I have a 2003 Tahoe 5.3 with approx. 228k miles. It was dealer maintained, CarFax confirmed, up until 197k miles when I purchased it. I did change the valve cover gasket after purchase and the engine was very clean. I've used Valvoline high mileage early on and the previous two oil changes had switched to Pennzoil Platinum high mileage. It has the somewhat common LS piston slap that goes away after 30-60 seconds depending on the season. It hasn't changed or gotten worse since I purchased the truck. It also would consume about quart of oil about every 1300 miles.

My experience first 500 miles of R&P:

1. My oil consumption was nil. Didn't expect this since I assumed it was ring and/or cylinder wear.
2. Slight oil pressure increase. I didn't check it with my scan tool, but I've gained roughly 3 psi of oil pressure across the board according to the gauge.
3. Substantially reduced audible piston slap. I'd say roughly a 50% reduction in the time it's clearly audible.

I assumed that the last two could be related to fresh oil change, but as of 500 miles they still hold true.

Just my experience yours may vary.

_Tim

Great forum BTW.
Dealership maintained is a bad thing. They likely used the cheapest Group I bulk oil they could find (to increase their profits).
From the carfax, what was the oil change interval?
 
Dealership maintained is a bad thing. They likely used the cheapest Group I bulk oil they could find (to increase their profits).
From the carfax, what was the oil change interval?
I don't recall the intervals just that they were frequent and well documented. They even did the recommended power steering and brake fluid flush. The valve train was also super clean with almost no varnish when I did the valve covers after purchase.
 
Dealership maintained is a bad thing. They likely used the cheapest Group I bulk oil they could find (to increase their profits).
From the carfax, what was the oil change interval?
group 2 was invented in the early 70's I believe but pure group 1 oil is just about extinct beyond sh or sj rated oils but still could be mixed but I get what you're saying. Some dealers will use less than bare minimum. But if it was clean enough when the vc was removed, the oil pressure wasn't too low meaning worn bearings and wider clearances, and it didn't burn too much then the oil was very likely at least to spec. But I bet it was some of the cheapest it'll do the job stuff they could get.
 
group 2 was invented in the early 70's I believe but pure group 1 oil is just about extinct beyond sh or sj rated oils but still could be mixed but I get what you're saying. Some dealers will use less than bare minimum. But if it was clean enough when the vc was removed, the oil pressure wasn't too low meaning worn bearings and wider clearances, and it didn't burn too much then the oil was very likely at least to spec. But I bet it was some of the cheapest it'll do the job stuff they could get.
I think slow speed ship engines can still do Grp1
Feedback from Foxtrot is dealerships buy decent lubes …
My L84 is under a dealership extended warranty and they tell me ACD D1.3 is being used … Can’t see where they’ll cover the engine but put Golden State in (warranty was not cheap) …
 
I think slow speed ship engines can still do Grp1
Feedback from Foxtrot is dealerships buy decent lubes …
My L84 is under a dealership extended warranty and they tell me ACD D1.3 is being used … Can’t see where they’ll cover the engine but put Golden State in (warranty was not cheap) …

When I was a dealer tech, the dealersjip bulk oil was Castrol or Total (Total being a big player here). And we vhoose our oil so it would be czrtified for all engines that we sold, that included pd tdi diesels, PSA diesels, Renault diesels, Hyundai diesels, Mitsubishi Diesels, and FPT doesels aswell as Hyundai and Mitsubishi gas engines, and we got it in a viscosity that covered all bases.

it wasn't the cheapest oil at all, but of course we didn't pay retail either. When we had Castrol, we used Castrol Magnatec Professional OE 5W-40 for example.

here's the specs listed for that oil: API-SN, API CF, ACEA C3, Ford WSS-M2C917-A, VW 505 00, VW 505 01, Fiat 9.55535-S2, MB 229.31, MB 229.51, GM dexos2

That was 10 years ago, don't think it had dexos 2 back then?
 
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When I was a dealer tech, the dealersjip bulk oil was Castrol or Total (Total being a big player here). And we vhoose our oil so it would be czrtified for all engines that we sold, that included pd tdi diesels, PSA diesels, Renault diesels, Hyundai diesels, Mitsubishi Diesels, and FPT doesels aswell as Hyundai and Mitsubishi gas engines, and we got it in a viscosity that covered all bases.

it wasn't the cheapest oil at all, but of course we didn't pay retail either. When we had Castrol, we used Castrol Magnatec Professional OE 5W-40 for example.

here's the specs listed for that oil: API-SN, API CF, ACEA C3, Ford WSS-M2C917-A, VW 505 00, VW 505 01, Fiat 9.55535-S2, MB 229.31, MB 229.51, GM dexos2

That was 10 years ago, don't think it had dexos 2 back then?
We had the Lexus trans dealer changed bcs it's a crazy job with the Cat/exhaust in the way ...
I could see the mechanic break open a six-pack box of WS ATF ... (in Mobil shaped bottles) ...
 
If the manual says it calls for a dexos1gen whatever oil, the dealer is going to put in something that meets that because they don’t want to be liable for it if it blows up.

Nothing with a legit dexos rating can be considered a “bad” oil.
 
I would like to add my 2 cents to the Valvoline protect/ restore discussion. I have a 09 CRV with 105,000 miles on it. Bought the car new with the dealer changing the oil while under warranty and then I took over. I'm retired so it doesn't get driven as much but oil gets changed in the spring after the snow melts and in the fall before the snow starts to fly. So oil was changed in Sept. with the Valvoline protect and restore 5W20 and OEM filter. After 500 miles the oil reminder was down to 90% which is rather early. I continued to watch it and at 1500 miles on the oil it was down to 60% the end of November. So I was thinking at this rate I would probably be looking at the end of February or early March for an oil change according to the oil reminder. Not happy about changing oil on a car that time of year in MN but I have done it. Anyway I changed the oil early and used Pennzoil full synthetic oil which I have been running the last couple of years with OEM filter. After 500 miles it is still on 100% according to the oil reminder. I have a stash of oil which is why I used the Pennzoil instead of using the Valvoline recommended 4 oil change recommendation. Will try the Valvoline again once I run out of the Pennzoil . So I'm thinking along the lines that it is working and cleaning. The oil was not really dirty and usually after 1500 miles it might be only down to 90% on the oil reminder. The car does not use any oil and did not with the Valvoline.
 
I would like to add my 2 cents to the Valvoline protect/ restore discussion. I have a 09 CRV with 105,000 miles on it. Bought the car new with the dealer changing the oil while under warranty and then I took over. I'm retired so it doesn't get driven as much but oil gets changed in the spring after the snow melts and in the fall before the snow starts to fly. So oil was changed in Sept. with the Valvoline protect and restore 5W20 and OEM filter. After 500 miles the oil reminder was down to 90% which is rather early. I continued to watch it and at 1500 miles on the oil it was down to 60% the end of November. So I was thinking at this rate I would probably be looking at the end of February or early March for an oil change according to the oil reminder. Not happy about changing oil on a car that time of year in MN but I have done it. Anyway I changed the oil early and used Pennzoil full synthetic oil which I have been running the last couple of years with OEM filter. After 500 miles it is still on 100% according to the oil reminder. I have a stash of oil which is why I used the Pennzoil instead of using the Valvoline recommended 4 oil change recommendation. Will try the Valvoline again once I run out of the Pennzoil . So I'm thinking along the lines that it is working and cleaning. The oil was not really dirty and usually after 1500 miles it might be only down to 90% on the oil reminder. The car does not use any oil and did not with the Valvoline.
The car has absolutely no idea what oil you used so there can't be any difference in the oil minder. If it went down quicker than normal, there must have been certain conditions causing that. The oil minder would be exactly the same if you filled it with bargain basement group1 conventional no name brand oil. The car has no way to know what is in there nor does it check the oil in any way. If you wanted to run the restore and protect, you should do that. It won't affect the oil minder at all.
 
I own a 05 Yukon with 218k on it. Previous owner used 10-40 bulk from the tractor dealership he worked.for. That mod is silent and uses no oil between changes. It calls for 5-30 and I have been using that. From Quaker State.full synthetic high mileage. Very smoothie motor with.no issues.
 
Thought I'd offer my experience to date with 5w-30 Restore and Protect.

A little vehicle background:

I have a 2003 Tahoe 5.3 with approx. 228k miles. It was dealer maintained, CarFax confirmed, up until 197k miles when I purchased it. I did change the valve cover gasket after purchase and the engine was very clean. I've used Valvoline high mileage early on and the previous two oil changes had switched to Pennzoil Platinum high mileage. It has the somewhat common LS piston slap that goes away after 30-60 seconds depending on the season. It hasn't changed or gotten worse since I purchased the truck. It also would consume about quart of oil about every 1300 miles.

My experience first 500 miles of R&P:

1. My oil consumption was nil. Didn't expect this since I assumed it was ring and/or cylinder wear.
2. Slight oil pressure increase. I didn't check it with my scan tool, but I've gained roughly 3 psi of oil pressure across the board according to the gauge.
3. Substantially reduced audible piston slap. I'd say roughly a 50% reduction in the time it's clearly audible.

I assumed that the last two could be related to fresh oil change, but as of 500 miles they still hold true.

Just my experience yours may vary.

_Tim

Great forum BTW.
It’s interesting you mentioned an oil pressure increase. I put VRP in my 2020 Wrangler 3.6L and noticed the oil pressure went up to 34 PSI from 30.

I put In 5w-30 rather than 0w-20, which I assume was in it (first oil change in my ownership) and it was about 40F in my garage and about 10F outside. Maybe that had some effect on oil pressure.

Still, I find it interesting that you saw the same thing.
 
I would like to add my 2 cents to the Valvoline protect/ restore discussion. I have a 09 CRV with 105,000 miles on it. Bought the car new with the dealer changing the oil while under warranty and then I took over. I'm retired so it doesn't get driven as much but oil gets changed in the spring after the snow melts and in the fall before the snow starts to fly. So oil was changed in Sept. with the Valvoline protect and restore 5W20 and OEM filter. After 500 miles the oil reminder was down to 90% which is rather early. I continued to watch it and at 1500 miles on the oil it was down to 60% the end of November. So I was thinking at this rate I would probably be looking at the end of February or early March for an oil change according to the oil reminder. Not happy about changing oil on a car that time of year in MN but I have done it. Anyway I changed the oil early and used Pennzoil full synthetic oil which I have been running the last couple of years with OEM filter. After 500 miles it is still on 100% according to the oil reminder. I have a stash of oil which is why I used the Pennzoil instead of using the Valvoline recommended 4 oil change recommendation. Will try the Valvoline again once I run out of the Pennzoil . So I'm thinking along the lines that it is working and cleaning. The oil was not really dirty and usually after 1500 miles it might be only down to 90% on the oil reminder. The car does not use any oil and did not with the Valvoline.
Crazy question but are you sure you reset the MM when you did the change in September?

You say 2x per year, what does that equal in actual miles? My daughters '08 CRV (and the rest of my vehicles) will sit a long time at 100% on the oil and then start dropping. I don't reset the MM at the oil changes anymore but wait until it says to change for the "other" services that are tied to it.

Some of them reset other parameters when the oil is reset also.

I have a small notepad in each glove box. I mark down gas purchases, we always fill up, not $20 version. I also mark filter changes, tire swaps, brakes etc. With a a bunch of short trip in the CRV and Pilot, the MM still goes about 7500 miles.

With the short trips and UOA's, I'm doing 5k changes on 3 vehicles, 3k/6months on the Hyundai, 4k severe service on the Renegade.

My Accord is at about 5k's currently as after 3k for some reason it starts to use more so I get to about 5k after adding 1-1.5 qts and will just change it rather than keep topping off. That's with multiple versions of oil and viscosities. M1, PP, PP Euro-L, some frankenblend combinations and viscosities of 0W-20, 0W-40, 5w-30 and some others for top offs including some MMO IIRC.
 
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