f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2026
Same here, I have ordered it twice from WalMart.com...delivers in two days. Just need to buy a minimum of two 5 quart jugs each time. Easy peasy.
2nd choice oil to keep rings clean?
- Thread starter Chris142
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You hightlighted that to stand out, but you make it impossible to read.
Sae 40 monograde like Delo 400 or PC Duron weather permitting. Second choice SAE 30.
"Impossible is nothing" - Mohammed Ali
probably i am younger than you bcs. that phrase i saw it first time in 2004 used from adidas commercial
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- Jan 20, 2022
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What does that mean?
A piston soak at every oil change with B12? Kidding...
which amsoil?
SS or the Euro one that meets the spec if you have a European car.
that 0W-40 (EFO) seems a good one for my bmw but i think Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 is similar and less pricely
Agree. I'd go with Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 if you need LL-04, but 0W-30 is probably just fine too.
I don't get it, why are you not able to order on-line Valvoline Restore and Protect? It's clearly one of the most effective methods for your condition? Walmart or Amazon, everything else is a band aide or a compromise compared to Valvoline Restore and Protect?????
what element is called for cleaning on this oil compared to Valvoline Restore and Protect? as i've just posted in another thread the msds of Mobil 1 0w30 is more of a gtl oil than a pao/ester .ester=cleans. i know Valvoline Restore and Protect has another composition that cleans,not ester,which we dont know.
Because they are chemically different and form at different temperatures by different processes. This is why many oils that can remove hard carbon can't really do a whole lot for varnish. Varnish is frankly the toughest of all deposits to remove. This is because varnish isn't just one thing, it's actually a very wide range of deposit types and combinations of deposit types.
Which is why seeing Restore and Protect remove it left me quite gobsmacked.
There are industrial processes that can remove varnish (ion exchange, etc) but they are generally not within the domain of small automotive engines.
Watch the Varnish Lady and take in her expertise:
Run whatever oil you want and add a bottle of Rislone to it. It will slowly clean the rings up. Could also try a 1oz/qt of oil of Gumout Multisystem Tune Up for a full oci. Motul X-Clean may help here but online order only for me. If a straight 6 or 4cyl could also do a piston soak, can be done in v6/8 motors just easiest in inline motors. Or do a flush at the end of your oci w BG EPR. This is what I ran in my Honda before Valvoline Restore and Protect was out to clean the rings and resolved my consumption issues.
Keeping pistons as clean as possible isn't JUST a question of oil. It's also a question of how an engine is used, the fuel used, and the filtration as well.
The elephant in the room is how it's possible that VAG engines can have so many problems with early life oil burning when VW requires the use of oils that have demonstrated remarkable resistance to oxidation and piston deposits.
We have to conclude that the engines are being used in a way that doesn't reflect the test conditions. Keeping engines clean when dealing with fuel dilution and short trips requires fundamentally different chemistry that keeping engines clean when dealing with prolonged high temperatures and higher load conditions.
If you own a VW and drive it hard like it was on the autobahn and run a VW spec oil on half the VW recommended interval, you will probably never have ring sticking or consumption problems, because the usage reflects the test condition.
But stick that same vehicle and oil in a suburban short trip duty cycle with tons of moisture and fuel dilution and you end up with piston ring deposits and oil burning. The DI pack isn't tuned for that condition. It only speaks German
Add to that mismatch an oil drain interval that is much, much too long in the context of that mismatch and you get deposits and chronic consumption.
The elephant in the room is how it's possible that VAG engines can have so many problems with early life oil burning when VW requires the use of oils that have demonstrated remarkable resistance to oxidation and piston deposits.
We have to conclude that the engines are being used in a way that doesn't reflect the test conditions. Keeping engines clean when dealing with fuel dilution and short trips requires fundamentally different chemistry that keeping engines clean when dealing with prolonged high temperatures and higher load conditions.
If you own a VW and drive it hard like it was on the autobahn and run a VW spec oil on half the VW recommended interval, you will probably never have ring sticking or consumption problems, because the usage reflects the test condition.
But stick that same vehicle and oil in a suburban short trip duty cycle with tons of moisture and fuel dilution and you end up with piston ring deposits and oil burning. The DI pack isn't tuned for that condition. It only speaks German
Add to that mismatch an oil drain interval that is much, much too long in the context of that mismatch and you get deposits and chronic consumption.
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