2nd choice oil to keep rings clean?
- Thread starter Chris142
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I'm only recommending that oil because you have a BMW.
Mobil 1 ESP will not clean as well as Valvoline Restore and Protect. The 0W-30 has esters so you'll get some cleaning, but I haven't seen any documentation that it will clean piston ring deposits.
I think that's a good observation and insight. It also seems that VW engines appear prone to valve stem seal issues as well and develop oil burning from that.Keeping pistons as clean as possible isn't JUST a question of oil. It's also a question of how an engine is used, the fuel used, and the filtration as well.
The elephant in the room is how it's possible that VAG engines can have so many problems with early life oil burning when VW requires the use of oils that have demonstrated remarkable resistance to oxidation and piston deposits.
We have to conclude that the engines are being used in a way that doesn't reflect the test conditions. Keeping engines clean when dealing with fuel dilution and short trips requires fundamentally different chemistry that keeping engines clean when dealing with prolonged high temperatures and higher load conditions.
If you own a VW and drive it hard like it was on the autobahn and run a VW spec oil on half the VW recommended interval, you will probably never have ring sticking or consumption problems, because the usage reflects the test condition.
But stick that same vehicle and oil in a suburban short trip duty cycle with tons of moisture and fuel dilution and you end up with piston ring deposits and oil burning. The DI pack isn't tuned for that condition. It only speaks German
Add to that mismatch an oil drain interval that is much, much too long in the context of that mismatch and you get deposits and chronic consumption.
Nah, the oil is fine. Just be sure you flush any residual Volkswagen from it.@Hohn, I'd better drain that CEB 5w-40 out of my 2GR-FE as soon as I get home.
i had a 00 celica gt with the 1zz known for oil consumption. to keep rings clean my oci was 3k. i got it at 43k miles, drove it for 5 years and put almost 90k miles. i threw whatever oil was on sale at the time, quaker state, shell, kragen, castrol, synthetic and conventional, 5w-30 to 10w-30. always put 4qt in and got about 4qt drained. never had oil consumption issues. sold it at around 130k miles
if driving hard on the autobahn, i think you dont need to cut half the OCI ,maybe a little less .e.x if its 24000,do it at 18000.the reason is that the oil gets temp and works at what it was tested about as you claim.so no harm really, in fact this is how it should work.i have been witness of friends that own a new bmw and do a lot of highway commute and drive hard and keep the bmw oil interval and their car is in perfect condition after 200.000 km.
but if short trips,oil is used wrong and this is worst for keeping the oil in a good condition and engine .there is where you need to definitely cut half,maybe more than half.
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Any Mobil 1 oil
Went from Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 and back to Mobil 1. Engine was no quieter and the oil looked the same when drained. My OCI's are 3,000-3,500 and I'll never go 5,000 no matter the oil. When I went to Valvoline Restore and Protect I did the filter change at 500 miles like suggested and full oil change 2500 miles later. The first filter did have a lot os trash in it but the second one was clean. 3rd and 4th were all good and the oil was almost new looking. Didn't burn a drop of oil.
I'm going to try Mobil 1 Advanced Clean 5w30 to see what it can do.
I'm going to try Mobil 1 Advanced Clean 5w30 to see what it can do.
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
On deck to replace Valvoline in my Jeep
When I first got this Toyota it only had 133 miles on the oil change and I didn't want to change the filter, so I siphoned out and replaced with the last half of a quart of @High Performance Lubricants EC30 and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20. I ran that for about 3,000 MI and then had a service done with a Napa Gold oil filter and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I then recently changed it again leaving the new filter on as it was only 4000 miles and used up the last half of a can of BG Moa in Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20. I have also cleaned throttle body, used TT+ fuel 89 e5 from Amoco along with Redline Si-1 fuel system cleaner.
No matter what you do or what you use and you still have to use good fuel, make sure your emission systems are up to task and working properly and do the thing that a lot of people don't do and that is to take it out on the open Highway for at least 30 minutes where it has a chance to get up to temperature and hit some of the upper RPMs. Anything with the Pea detergent it's what I recommend but just like zinc, it has to get hot and up to temperature to do its deal. After you've ran it good and hot just like when you put a car away for the winter, park it after you've really driven it that way it has time to heat soak with the fuel detergent and a proper adequate fuel additive.
If you don't have a whole lot of miles and you want to do a occasional flush I'm not against it but don't go overboard.
The higher amount of P.E.A it has the better. Chevron Techron fuel additive works great
I agree, i like Redline for the upper cylinder lubricant and then to reuse the bottle and then buy something like Lucas upper cylinder or lx4 from hotshots and I pour that back in the bottle and just micro treat in between until the next Oil Change along with top tier rated fuels
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Cool story
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
What makes it good for valve trains? With all the piston talk here - lifters and rockers still worry me the most …Royal Purple HPS or XPR for not only for great solvency but top notch valvetrain protection. If you can see past the marketing dye that last maybe 20 miles it's an exceptional oil.
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Well there was a time when M-1 0W40 listed itself as having the ability to clean in it's marketing material. The formula has changed so many times since then though I doubt it is anything like it once was.
At this time there is no oil that makes the marketing claims that Valvoline Restore and Protect does.
How can you live in the USA and not be able to get Valvoline Restore and Protect? It says on your profile that you live in California. I understand the Republic of California is a very very restrictive and crushing place to live for reasons we can not speak about on this forum but surely even they allow Valvoline Restore and Protect!
Every Part Store in America and Walmart carry it!
If it is about the price you should say so up front but as much as the price stinks nothing cheaper makes the same claims or has produced like results yet that I am aware of!
At this time there is no oil that makes the marketing claims that Valvoline Restore and Protect does.
How can you live in the USA and not be able to get Valvoline Restore and Protect? It says on your profile that you live in California. I understand the Republic of California is a very very restrictive and crushing place to live for reasons we can not speak about on this forum but surely even they allow Valvoline Restore and Protect!
Every Part Store in America and Walmart carry it!
If it is about the price you should say so up front but as much as the price stinks nothing cheaper makes the same claims or has produced like results yet that I am aware of!