'22 Genesis G70

what oil is speced for the European market?
Not sure. I plan to use Amsoil XL 10w40. Car calls for 0w30.

I looked further.

Amsoil XL 10w40:

HTHS 4.4
NOACK 5.1

XL Specs: https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g1404.pdf

Signature Series 0w40:

HTHS 3.76
NOACK 7.7

Signature Series Specs: https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf


So, do I want lower HTHS, or lower NOACK. I was concerned about NOACK with this being a DI engine, I want to keep those valves as clean as possible for as long as possible (I also only run Top Tier fuel). I am adding a catch can also.

Though, I think I may be looking at this wrong. I think the XL is better in both regards now that I read more. Higher HTHS is good. Lower NOACK is good. XL is higher in HTHS and lower in NOACK. Making it the better choice. The signature series is the better oil overall though. So it's a tough call. Signature Series is not available in anything 40 weight except 0w40. I don't need the NOACK raising 0w oil in FL.
 
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I couldn't agree more. I wish manufacturers provided an Option that you could select that would add sound deadening. My G70 has laminated windshield and front doors, the rears are single pane. I should have the option to add the rears IMO (getting the front two laminated was part of an add-on package, called the Prestige package, the base has single pane all around). They could come up with some way to add a Sound Deadening Package that people like me can choose if we want to spend the extra cash. I would do it for sure. I think it's a shame they don't do more for the insides of the doors. They're just hollow shells with nothing in them. They have so much room for improvement. I'm willing to pay if they'll do the work on the assembly line. It didn't improve road noise, you're correct. I considered pulling the wheel well liners and doing the inside of the panel but that's just too much work. It's as good as it's going to get. Maybe they'll improve for the next gen G70. Not that this one is bad by any means....

You're welcome!

Just a couple things.... I think AMSOIL is a fine choice but if splitting hairs and you are strictly bent on staying within warranty. AMSOIL 10W40 does not meet API specs. They say to use it where that spec is required.
There's also no API donut on the bottle that would declare it is API certified.

 
You're welcome!

Just a couple things.... I think AMSOIL is a fine choice but if splitting hairs and you are strictly bent on staying within warranty. AMSOIL 10W40 does not meet API specs. They say to use it where that spec is required.
There's also no API donut on the bottle that would declare it is API certified.

I am okay with them not paying for the donut. I know it meets and likely exceeds the API SP spec. That's good enough for me.
 
No doubt the ride was already pretty hushed. But I wanted it even more quiet. I also have found that adding some Kilmat 80mil improves the audio system. I didn't go as crazy as some do. Some people remove the seats and the carpet and do the entire floor. That's overkill. I also like that it adds some weight to the doors, which adds a sense of quality. The opening and closing sound is much more satisfying too. That may make we weird but the way the doors sound is something I look at when shopping. I dinged Genesis on a QA survey I was sent for it, they need to improve it at baseline. So anyways, yea I think it makes a difference. In multiple ways.
I did the same thing with my Accord, and it made the same improvements that you noted. Trunk, doors, and I removed the front plastic wheel wells and did them. Like you said, it’s annoying that some OEMs do so little sound deadening.
 
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I couldn't agree more. I wish manufacturers provided an Option that you could select that would add sound deadening...

Not exactly the same vehicle, but I spent considerable time attempting to deaden my Genesis Coupe and came to the same conclusion. I used both traditional stick on deadeners, as well as layers of jute fiber ontop. I deadened almost EVERYTHING, and although the improvements are noticeable if you were to A vs B test before and after, it's not a super dramatic improvement considering the effort.

Doors: Deadening here improves the midbass and the "thud" feel, but IMO not much road noise comes in from the doors which is probably why OE's don't go overboard here.

Floors and trunk: Small improvement to transmission and exhaust noise. Having jute fiber/carpet here makes more difference than the stick on stuff.

Engine underhood damper: Didn't really make a noticeable difference as compared to some older vehicles

Wheel well liners: Added some layers of that asphalt based deadener here to attempt to reduce road noise. Surprisingly, did not make much difference.

So in summary, I think deadener blocks out transmission of noises through materials, but alot of the remainder NVH comes through the windows, tires, and vibrations through the frame...of which deadener doesn't do much for.
 
Difficult to obtain outside Korea the OEM Hyundai/Kia/Genesis 0w30 oil is very interesting.
 

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GenesisGuy70, if you want to stay with your Amsoil plan, think about the "European Car Formula" 5W30 100% syn which I believe has VW 504.00, 507.00 approvals, and is recommended for 229.51, LL04, C30, Dexos2, and MS-11106, API SN . Stout oil with Noack 7.1%, HTHS 3.6. Keeping the HTHS in the hi-30/ low-40 bounds will let the engine rev more, free up a little extra power, keep the PCV, valves, and cats clean, and -unless you're harshly tracking it- that ACEA C3 formulation would provide just enough protection over an ILSAC 30 weight for your (likely) usage. At current $55/gal preferred price it's a little pricey, but it sounds like you were already prepared for that.
 
GenesisGuy70, if you want to stay with your Amsoil plan, think about the "European Car Formula" 5W30 100% syn which I believe has VW 504.00, 507.00 approvals, and is recommended for 229.51, LL04, C30, Dexos2, and MS-11106, API SN . Stout oil with Noack 7.1%, HTHS 3.6. Keeping the HTHS in the hi-30/ low-40 bounds will let the engine rev more, free up a little extra power, keep the PCV, valves, and cats clean, and -unless you're harshly tracking it- that ACEA C3 formulation would provide just enough protection over an ILSAC 30 weight for your (likely) usage. At current $55/gal preferred price it's a little pricey, but it sounds like you were already prepared for that.
I checked that oil out. I guess I don't understand why I would choose the Euro formula when the XL has a higher HTHS and a lower NOACK. Granted, that is solely because I intend to run the 10w40, the Euro is a 5w30. At baseline the 5w30 won't be able to compete on those two measures regardless. I feel better stepping up a grade to 40 since I'll be tuning this mill and pumping in more heat and out more power. I live in Florida so I don't need an 0w or even a 5w. The 10w40 is a no brainer IMO.
 
Why choose the Euro Formula 5W30 over the XL 10W40? (Hope this is not too overwhelming)...

The Euro Formula has better base stocks than the XL, meaning it uses a higher proportion of Group 4 PAO & Group 5 ester in the mix than the XL's mostly Group 3/ 3+ blend. This causes Euro Formula (and Signature Series, SS) base oils to have a significantly higher natural viscosity index than XL. For EF & SS to be in the high 30 /low 40 weight categories, it will need significantly less viscosity index improver added to the base stock blend. Viscosity index improver is basically like short strands of rubber/ elastomer fiber that add viscosity to the fluid by unfurling to create flow resistance when its temperature increases. The presence of VII has always been thought of as a necessary evil in the multi-viscosity era (~ last 55 years) because it has a tradeoff. With mileage age comes oxidation, nitration, heat cycling (especially with turbos) , fuel dilution, and cylinder gas blow-by, all of which have a negative effect on motor oil, but most negative on the VII, which actually chemically react and turn into varnish, sludge, and carbon deposits. During this process of VII breakdown/ depletion, both the kinematic viscosity and the HTHS viscosity degrade, so an oil with lets say 2k miles will have lower kV100 and HTHSV values than virgin oil. This degradation process is what leads the smart formulators to start with higher kV100 & HTHSV levels to combine with lower quality base oils as a safeguard to attempt to maintain their viscosity properties within the range that the rating (ie. SAE xW40) requires, knowing serious degradation will occur, especially in a high performance engine used to its potential. But how much abuse can lower quality base oils endure before varnish, resin, sludge and carbon form inside the engine, or before enough VII has dropped out of suspension to indicate the oil is out of grade? To the operator/ maintainer's perspective the tradeoff will be more frequent oil changes to maintain the viscosity grade and cleanliness of the oil. In the end, the cost to go with the lower spec oil may not be the bargain it first appeared to be.

The approvals and recommendations also show this:

XL is recommended for API service SM, SN, SN+, SP and ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4 - which makes it a "high" SAPS oil, likely not catalytic converter/ warranty friendly. In fact, I'm not sure how it can simultaneously be SN, SN+, or SP and also A3/B3, A3/B4? Don't the API service >= "N" categories necessarily make it mid-SAPS?

European Formula 5W30 is approved for VW 504/507 and recommended for MB 229.51, BMW LL-04, Porsche C30, GM Dexos2, and Chrysler MS-11106. It should have a low or mid-SAPS level and the 5W- was likely to get the approval which will spec one viscosity grade for all climates, and should be perfectly fine for Florida. I live in north Florida and use 5W oil year-round, albeit on lower specific power output engines - less than 100hp/L.

You seem to be hung up on the dynamic viscosity rating of 40 vs 30 as well. At full operating temperature, the plain bearings in an engine only know the HTHS viscosity, which unfortunately is never marked on the container. While the XL has a 4.4 HTHSV and the EF has 3.6, two question marks pop up: do you need 4.6 because you're putting out 200 hp per liter (or will it just sap power output), and how long in use will it hold that value? Remember, all specs are allowed to be based on properties of brand new oil, and as I explained above it degrades during usage.

Also, to get a better idea of these oils' quality, compare the relative values of the approval specs on the Lubrizol spider charts.

In the end, running various oils in service and monitoring the wear level trends in used oil analysis (or even better, thru engine tear downs and inspection) will help you fine tune an oil selection that simultaneously has enough viscosity, and not too much viscosity, and can last thru the service interval without causing unintended consequences.
 
I hear what you're saying and was able to follow all of that. I hadn't realized XL was GIII. That changes my perspective for sure. While I don't see myself going for the Euro oil, I will probably switch from the XL to SS 10w30. I wanted to stick with SS anyways but they didn't have a 5w or 10w 40 weight. Only 0w. And I have no need for that. I'll run the SS 10w30 and do a UOA and go from there.
 
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