21 Subaru Ascent - M1 EP 0w20

I have my theories on why they have fuel dilution issues which I can get into if your curious on my thoughts.

I feel like 0w30 AFE and ESP performed better than 0w20 EP did. I think that's undeniable for anyone to say. But which performed better? I'm that good at understanding UOA's like many are here. Either way, I haven't seen many UOA's on vehicles that shear oil quite as bad as this engine. I love and hate rabbit holes. Often there is much to learn, but at what expense of time is worth for something that is only fractions of percent better than something else. That's how I got into lighting...thats quite the rabbit hole too. lol


I don't know why Blackstone doesn't do fuel dilution? I have tried to figure another oil testing company, but I don't know which ones are good. Seems like Blackstone is most widely used. Out of curiosity, have you done any UOA's on your Outback XT and if so, how do they turn out?

That's interesting about the WRX with the FA24. I'll have to look into that out of curiosity. The only thing I can think of fuel economy and emissions standards. Plus maybe ambient temperature. But temps in the US range anywhere from -30F to 115F where as Japan doesn't quite see those types of temperature swings. It's interesting either way you look at it.

EDIT: It's primarily my wifes DD and it's about a 10 mile trip to work for her with about 40% city/60% hiway. In the winter she hits the remote start for 10 min, sometimes twice for 20 min. In the summer she just starts it up and goes, sometimes remote start for a few min to cool it off. It's also our primary road trip vehicle too.
Yes, I’ve done a couple of uoa’s on it and will get around to posting them eventually. Fuel dilution was tested by GC. The numbers are at home on another device but fuel dilution was higher in the winter (much more short trip driving in the cold). Oil Analyzer’s Inc tests fuel via GC. You can see some Outback XT examples on the Outback forum. If fuel is being added to the oil, that used viscosity isn’t necessarily from shear because of the added fuel.

My comment about the Subaru Japan oil wasn’t really about them using thicker oil, but more that it’s an oil with a robust ACEA A3 additive pack (typically high ZDDP and high calcium) which most other manufacturers have moved away from in DI engines due to trying to mitigate intake valve deposits and LSPI. Japan also allowed ACEA A3 5W-40 in the FA20DIT.
 
Yes, I’ve done a couple of uoa’s on it and will get around to posting them eventually. Fuel dilution was tested by GC. The numbers are at home on another device but fuel dilution was higher in the winter (much more short trip driving in the cold). Oil Analyzer’s Inc tests fuel via GC. You can see some Outback XT examples on the Outback forum. If fuel is being added to the oil, that used viscosity isn’t necessarily from shear because of the added fuel.

My comment about the Subaru Japan oil wasn’t really about them using thicker oil, but more that it’s an oil with a robust ACEA A3 additive pack (typically high ZDDP and high calcium) which most other manufacturers have moved away from in DI engines due to trying to mitigate intake valve deposits and LSPI. Japan also allowed ACEA A3 5W-40 in the FA20DIT.
That engine has pretty large displacement for LSPI. If LSPI is an issue in 2.4ltr engine, sorry, but that engine is garbage.
As far as I know that one doesn’t have LSPI issues.
 
What do you guys think about these oil analysis’s?

I’m not good at breaking down whether the UOA is “good or bad”. To me it looks like the FA24DIT is pretty hard on oil based on cST Vis being so low. I changed the FF at about 1000 miles and I did not do a UOA on that. M1 EP 0w20 was used for both of these oil changes and I’ll be do soon for another in a month or 2.

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Your engine is too new. I’d just wait till around 25 or 30k miles for break in to get done and washed out. Then do some UOAs
Looks good though considering.
 
And on the topic of LSPI, I was quite surprised to see that Subaru Japan allows high SAPS 0W-30 in the 2022 JDM WRX with the FA24DIT, so apparently they're not that concerned about it. Different tuning? Different driving habits? 🤷‍♂️
Honest question… does a CVT even allow the conditions where LSPI may occur? I’d imagine by the time enough load is placed on the engine to make decent boost, the CVT will have allowed the engine to spin up high enough LSPI isn’t a concern?
 
I take care of a neighbor’s Ascent, next oil change will be a Euro xxW-30. I would have gone with a dexos1/ILSAC 5W-30 or Castrol Edge EP 0W-20 with the Mercedes approval but these engines are hard on oil. There’s a jug of M1 ESP 0W-30 in the garage for it, no dexos2 approval, only M1 ESP 5W-30 carries that but not available locally.

The WRX guys with the FA20 are running Rotella T6 in those. I’m striving to hit a balance between protection(HTHS and shear resistance) and MPG.
 
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Honest question… does a CVT even allow the conditions where LSPI may occur? I’d imagine by the time enough load is placed on the engine to make decent boost, the CVT will have allowed the engine to spin up high enough LSPI isn’t a concern?
Good point. Probably not.

Of course, the other thing about high SAPS oils is the fear of intake valve deposits. A highly reputable Subaru engine builder claimed that they saw deposit issues with customer engines running Motul X-cess 5W-40 and now require customers that purchase their built engines to run reduced SAPS Motul X-clean.

Lots of aftermarket Subaru companies got on the walnut shell blasting bandwagon pretty early. Some owners even do it as preventative maintenance. There were a handful of n/a 2.5 Foresters that had legitimate issues with IVD and this was addressed with a TSB. It didn't affect turbo models though.
 
Yes, I’ve done a couple of uoa’s on it and will get around to posting them eventually. Fuel dilution was tested by GC. The numbers are at home on another device but fuel dilution was higher in the winter (much more short trip driving in the cold). Oil Analyzer’s Inc tests fuel via GC. You can see some Outback XT examples on the Outback forum. If fuel is being added to the oil, that used viscosity isn’t necessarily from shear because of the added fuel.

My comment about the Subaru Japan oil wasn’t really about them using thicker oil, but more that it’s an oil with a robust ACEA A3 additive pack (typically high ZDDP and high calcium) which most other manufacturers have moved away from in DI engines due to trying to mitigate intake valve deposits and LSPI. Japan also allowed ACEA A3 5W-40 in the FA20DIT.
Good point. Probably not.

Of course, the other thing about high SAPS oils is the fear of intake valve deposits. A highly reputable Subaru engine builder claimed that they saw deposit issues with customer engines running Motul X-cess 5W-40 and now require customers that purchase their built engines to run reduced SAPS Motul X-clean.

Lots of aftermarket Subaru companies got on the walnut shell blasting bandwagon pretty early. Some owners even do it as preventative maintenance. There were a handful of n/a 2.5 Foresters that had legitimate issues with IVD and this was addressed with a TSB. It didn't affect turbo models though.
I could absolutely see fuel dilution as an issue since that is common on direct injection engines. We shall see on the next UOA because that was 3500 miles of that was a road trip from NW IA to DC area, this was on 0w30 AFE. Though it has gotten cold recently so that will probably show up. When I change the oil I try to drive it for about 15-20 min or so, with about 70% interstate.

I haven't seen issues with intake valve deposits on the FA24 yet. There are a handful over 100k. But I believe the FA20's were seeing it under 50k. I only use premium in our Ascent (usually top tier) even though the manual calls for 87, so that should help mitigate the risks of IVD but not sure if it affects fuel dilution. I don't understand how Subaru recommends 87 for an engine with 10.4:1 compression, 14-15psi of boost and in a 4600lb vehicle to run well under load. It never mentions anything about using higher octane when towing or heavy loads, which really surprises me. But the Outback XT and Wilderness both recommend 91 if towing or having higher loads. I don't get how they would be any different?

I believe 0w30 ESP is low SAPs, which would work well for this setup too. Correct me if I'm wrong there. I can't imagine going to an Xw40 oil would be beneficial for this engine unless I was flogging it all the time or tracking it.

Honest question… does a CVT even allow the conditions where LSPI may occur? I’d imagine by the time enough load is placed on the engine to make decent boost, the CVT will have allowed the engine to spin up high enough LSPI isn’t a concern?
The CVT in these are programmed really weird. It tends to keep RPM's as low as possible and locks up the converter very soon. When cold, it will keep RPM up until it starts to warm up, but once it reach about 125F it tries to keep RPM low for MPG. I haven't logged it yet, but I believe it tries to reduce load keep it out of boost or very low levels when accelerating with traffic. There are other annoyances I won't get into about the CVT's programming that are very annoying.

I don't necessarily think the way Subaru programmed the engine/trans as a whole on the Ascent is very good. In temps under 25F or so, it will NEVER reach operating temp if you only drive in town. Once on the interstate there is no issues. When it's 10F or colder, it will reach operating temp on the interstate, but as soon as you pull off and start driving around in town, it goes down and will sit around 160F or so. I did a 100mi trip when it was -5F and even going 75mph it would not reach temp. I've had the dealer look into that and they say it's "normal". I have never had vehicle do this. Heck, my 01 outback will get to temp eventually and hold it in those conditions. I think this is a major reason for fuel dilution in the winter and why fuel economy takes such a huge hit in the winter besides the remote starts. lol I have noticed on colder days when going 70-75 that the MPG meter increases by 2mpg or so once it reaches operating temp. So I would imagine from an emissions standpoint that Subaru would also benefit from revising this and this leads me to believe this is why fuel dilution is an issue. I'm not sure if the Outbacks or WRX's see this happening?
 
Well guys, I ended switching over to OAI. This is showing that fuel dilution is horrible and that’s what’s causing the degradation of viscosity. This oil change had about 3000 miles put on it during 1 road trip alone. Then the 2150 miles were normal driving for a total of 5150 on the oil. It has gotten colder, so that may be part of it. But regardless, this is a lot of fuel dilution.

What are your thoughts on this? Shorten OCI’s to 4K miles or something else?
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Well guys, I ended switching over to OAI. This is showing that fuel dilution is horrible and that’s what’s causing the degradation of viscosity. This oil change had about 3000 miles put on it during 1 road trip alone. Then the 2150 miles were normal driving for a total of 5150 on the oil. It has gotten colder, so that may be part of it. But regardless, this is a lot of fuel dilution.

What are your thoughts on this? Shorten OCI’s to 4K miles or something else?
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Despite the fuel dilution, the wear is still pretty decent. I am not seeing a serious issue here.

With that said, have you considered running HPL's 10W20? It has no VII so it should be more shear stable than most 0W20 oils, as fuel dilution tends to attack the VII more than the base oil itself. With that said, I wouldn't expect a drastic difference in wear metals either way.
 
Despite the fuel dilution, the wear is still pretty decent. I am not seeing a serious issue here.

With that said, have you considered running HPL's 10W20? It has no VII so it should be more shear stable than most 0W20 oils, as fuel dilution tends to attack the VII more than the base oil itself. With that said, I wouldn't expect a drastic difference in wear metals either way.

I agree that there isn’t any indication that wear is an issue. But it’s concerning to me that the oil dropped from 11.5 to 6.9. Which is in range for 0w20, but I started with Mobil 0w30 AFE. The current oil in the car is Mobil 0w30 ESP. Which I know won’t help with fuel dilution, but I’m curious to see how OAI’s report compares to my previous Blackstone which seems less detailed. Also, this was using a Fram Ultra which I’ll probably stick with. I don’t buy into the Subaru bypass rating controversy unless someone can show proof of issues caused by it.

I have looked at HPL’s products, but the prices seem a bit steep for a 6qt bundle. I did compare the 4 x 4gal deal and that breaks down to a better price but only for about 3 oil changes at a 4.8qt capacity. I get a bit confused when comparing the Passenger car oil to the Premium and the Premium Plus to know what would suit it best or if one would do better. Is there there a concern using a 10w20 when it calls for 0w20? In the mornings in IA it’s usually 15F or less, it’s not uncommon to see temps in below 0F. This is why I’ve tried to stick with a 0wXX oil.
 
Well guys, I ended switching over to OAI. This is showing that fuel dilution is horrible and that’s what’s causing the degradation of viscosity. This oil change had about 3000 miles put on it during 1 road trip alone. Then the 2150 miles were normal driving for a total of 5150 on the oil. It has gotten colder, so that may be part of it. But regardless, this is a lot of fuel dilution.

What are your thoughts on this? Shorten OCI’s to 4K miles or something else?
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I agree that there isn’t any indication that wear is an issue. But it’s concerning to me that the oil dropped from 11.5 to 6.9. Which is in range for 0w20, but I started with Mobil 0w30 AFE. The current oil in the car is Mobil 0w30 ESP. Which I know won’t help with fuel dilution, but I’m curious to see how OAI’s report compares to my previous Blackstone which seems less detailed. Also, this was using a Fram Ultra which I’ll probably stick with. I don’t buy into the Subaru bypass rating controversy unless someone can show proof of issues caused by it.

I have looked at HPL’s products, but the prices seem a bit steep for a 6qt bundle. I did compare the 4 x 4gal deal and that breaks down to a better price but only for about 3 oil changes at a 4.8qt capacity. I get a bit confused when comparing the Passenger car oil to the Premium and the Premium Plus to know what would suit it best or if one would do better. Is there there a concern using a 10w20 when it calls for 0w20? In the mornings in IA it’s usually 15F or less, it’s not uncommon to see temps in below 0F. This is why I’ve tried to stick with a 0wXX oil.
M1 AFE 0W30 is fairly notorious for shearing, even in applications without fuel dilution issues. I think you’ll find the ESP to perform better.

I only use their Passenger Car oils, but their Premium and Premium Plus lines use a more stable VII and higher PAO content. My last order of 10W20 came out to $9.59/qt shipped by ordering 4 gals. The Black Friday special helped.

Toyota used to allow 10W-30 in temps above 0F, but required 5W-30 in <0F conditions. This was 20 years ago with their 1MZ engines that specified conventional. So, I think any 10W-xx oil should be okay above 0F. But it sounds like you could see below 0F conditions, so it may not be a good choice.
 

I absolutely agree if it were a WRX where I’d be more spirited in my driving. I would probably a 0w40 instead of a 5w40. But this is primarily my wife’s car and I don’t think she gets above 50% throttle ever. Lol I just don’t think it’s necessary to use an Xw40 in this car. In my 01 Outback with a ton of piston slap I use 5w40 or Rotella 10w40, whatever I see when I think about the oil change. Haha

M1 AFE 0W30 is fairly notorious for shearing, even in applications without fuel dilution issues. I think you’ll find the ESP to perform better.

I only use their Passenger Car oils, but their Premium and Premium Plus lines use a more stable VII and higher PAO content. My last order of 10W20 came out to $9.59/qt shipped by ordering 4 gals. The Black Friday special helped.

Toyota used to allow 10W-30 in temps above 0F, but required 5W-30 in

That’s good to know about AFE. I was hoping it would be enough because it has the “Subaru recommend” API and ISLAC ratings in case something would happen to the engine. I don’t even think the dealer would ask anyways.

The ESP did stand up much better if you take a look at Blackstone report on the previous page. It ended up at 8.76 CsT by comparison. I am curious about trying HPL though. I might have to message them or email them. The Premium line is appealing but even more costly.

I think another thing that contributes to fuel dilution is that the cooling system is so large that the Ascent will not reach operating temp if driven in town below 15-20F no matter how long I drive. Once on the interstate, no problem. I’ve had the dealer look at it and they claim it’s “normal”. But I don’t feel like it should be.

I’ve noticed many manufactures are ditching the oil recommendations based on temperature. Probably EPA related. My 2015 Tacoma 1gr will run on pretty much anything in it and still last forever. I have more reservation when it comes to newer engines that seem to be at higher stresses though. 2.4T in a 4600lb SUV is a lot of weight for that thing. I find it odd and an engineering mirical that the FA24 in the Ascent is recommended to run on 87 while it has 10.4:1 compression and about 12-15psi of boost! I use 91 because that just makes sense.
 
I think another thing that contributes to fuel dilution is that the cooling system is so large that the Ascent will not reach operating temp if driven in town below 15-20F no matter how long I drive. Once on the interstate, no problem. I’ve had the dealer look at it and they claim it’s “normal”. But I don’t feel like it should be.
There's the possibility that ESP may get hotter more quickly due to more friction from a thicker oil.

Any chance your wife would use the flappy paddles to hold the revs a little higher when the car is cold? That would help bring the car up to temp more quickly. Does she use remote start? I cringe when Outback owner's complain that the car cuts off after 10 minutes using remote start. They are really loading up the oil with fuel in those cases.
 
What is a good 0w30? I have considered it based on how “thin” it gets on the UOA. I have none available locally and haven’t seen much online since it isn’t that common. I think a 0w40 would be a bit excessive. From UOA’s on other vehicles of 5w30 I would expect many 5w30’s to breakdown pretty quick in this engine as well.



Is this normal to see oil breakdown this much in a new engine? This is the first car I have done UOA’s on.
What made you decide to to do uoas?
 
Have you actually had Subaru look at this? I assume it is still under warranty. It's absolutely possible your high pressure fuel pump is leaking fuel. This amount of fuel dilution and/or shear seems absurd.
 
Have you actually had Subaru look at this? I assume it is still under warranty. It's absolutely possible your high pressure fuel pump is leaking fuel. This amount of fuel dilution and/or shear seems absurd.
Not really. Honda 1.5T's have this much fuel dilution and it is normal. It seems to be common with the smaller TGDI engines.
 
Use thicker oil. Throttle is irrelevant. You have fuel dilution and you have to address it.
Motul X-Clean 5W40 GEN2 is really good choice. If you want something cheaper and readily accessible, Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 in Wal Mart is always really good choice.
 
Total waste of $$$ doing a uoa before 25K miles. Maybe I missed this but I thought the FA20/FA24 were speced for 30 wt oil. 5W-30 or even 10W-30 synthetic are fine for all year around
 
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