2025 Toyota Rav4 engine oil update, 5w-30

More important, @GI_GRIFF , did you buy the regular Rav4, or the hybrid? The idea of the standard NA engine, and non CVT package strikes a loving cord in my heart.
I bought the non-hybrid model with the "real" automatic transmission, not CVT. I think the trans is an 8-speed. This Rav4 is a 2025 model year I bought brand new on purpose. Their all new 2026-year model is only available as a hybrid.
 
What I posted didn’t have official denial paperwork. It was just a customer experience.

But it’s not surprising at all, they denied a lot of engine replacements for lack of receipts of oil changes, and any other issue they could come up with. They were junk engines, knew it, but tried every avenue to not replace it for a lot of folks.
 
What I posted didn’t have official denial paperwork. It was just a customer experience.

But it’s not surprising at all, they denied a lot of engine replacements for lack of receipts of oil changes, and any other issue they could come up with. They were junk engines, knew it, but tried every avenue to not replace it for a lot of folks.

Lack of maintenance, no oil changes, is one thing, denying warranty claims because the "wrong" oil was used is different.

I've told this story before here, but when I worked for an Asian OEM, we got back a bunch of warranty replacement engines, and on close inspection, it was clear that NO oil changes were ever performed. About 25k miles, then boom. All still covered by warranty. Maybe shouldn't have been, but they were.
 
I bought the non-hybrid model with the "real" automatic transmission, not CVT. I think the transmission is an 8-speed. This Rav4 is a 2025 model year I bought brand new on purpose. Their all new 2026-year model is only available as a hybrid.
Why did you pass on the hybrid Rav4? It's a better package...and its transmission is an eCVT, whose design is nothing like traditional CVTs.
 
No, VVT is moved by oil pressure but controlled by the ECU. The oil pressure is simply used as the motive force. If the ECU wants VVT to move it lets in or lets out more or less oil pressure into the VVT solenoid. If the oil pressure was too low to do this you would have other far worse problems. Some VVT models have been known to fail when the screen going into the solenoid gets plugged due to oil change neglect.

Its also not a electric oil pump. Its electrically controlled but chain driven. Meaning the ECU ramps it up or lowers the pressure based on conditions by changing the charge volume of the pump chamber, so the less has to be dumped through the pressure control valve and dumped back into the sump. If the electronics fail I imagine it just goes into full on and runs like a normal pump - pushing the extra out the pressure control valve, but I haven't been able to verify that specifically.

if the actuator gets stuck, it'll stay at the setting it failed in.
 
All of the ones I have seen have a spring return. You will also get a code.

Either way they won’t stop working due to oil viscosity.

I know they have the spring return, but I have seen the actuator stuck in low pressure also. it'll throw a code though, at least on stellantis products. It wasn't due to viscosity, I suspect the 22k mile OCI.
 
Like I said to lovcom earlier, I am just an old-fashioned old guy, it is just what I wanted.
I and my son had to make car buying decisions for my 2 SIL's (68 and 72 years old). One lives in rural Kansas the other in a larger city in Ohio. The one in Ohio we suggested and she bought a new RAV4 Hybrid. It took some convincing as she didn't fully understand the technology). 90% of her driving is going to pick up her grandkids every day to put them on and off the school bus. It's 3 miles one way and she can do a big chunk of that on battery power alone. She regularly gets 40+ mpg and likes all the room for the car seats and back packs. However, on a couple of trips from Ohio to Kansas she only got 32 to 34 mpg. My SIL in Kansas liked that 40 mpg her sister got, but 90% of her driving is on highways to get to towns for Walmart runs, etc. (often 20 + miles or more away). I convinced her to get a normally aspirated car (rather than a hybrid). As a result, her mpg is as good as or slightly better than her sisters hybrid on the highway and cost her less to buy. She takes a small hit driving around town which isn't too frequent. Both seem to be very happy. Different solutions for different circumstances.
 
I would like to see the official warranty denial documentation. In 12 years at a dealer I’ve only seen it once. Car was struck by lightning.
It’s happened a handful of times over the years with the BMW M 10W-60 engines where they spun a bearing and the owner used something thinner.

Even if they weren’t at fault, when these engines were first blowing up, the dealers and BMWNA were quite accusatory until it was understood to be a design flaw. I recall on the old m3forum that disappeared we even had someone with a warranty claim denial because they over-revved the engine with an “automatic” SMG gearbox by a tiny bit due to mechanical reasons at redline.

Of course this is exceedingly rare except if your dealer hates you and is looking for a reason.
 
It’s happened a handful of times over the years with the BMW M 10W-60 engines where they spun a bearing and the owner used something thinner.

Even if they weren’t at fault, when these engines were first blowing up, the dealers and BMWNA were quite accusatory until it was understood to be a design flaw. I recall on the old m3forum that disappeared we even had someone with a warranty claim denial because they over-revved the engine with an “automatic” SMG gearbox by a tiny bit due to mechanical reasons at redline.

Of course this is exceedingly rare except if your dealer hates you and is looking for a reason.

When I purchased a car calling for a 20 grade I went to the service manager about using 30 grade oils. He told me that using a 30 grade would NOT have any effect on the warranty of the car.
 
I and my son had to make car buying decisions for my 2 SIL's (68 and 72 years old). One lives in rural Kansas the other in a larger city in Ohio. The one in Ohio we suggested and she bought a new RAV4 Hybrid. It took some convincing as she didn't fully understand the technology). 90% of her driving is going to pick up her grandkids every day to put them on and off the school bus. It's 3 miles one way and she can do a big chunk of that on battery power alone. She regularly gets 40+ mpg and likes all the room for the car seats and back packs. However, on a couple of trips from Ohio to Kansas she only got 32 to 34 mpg. My SIL in Kansas liked that 40 mpg her sister got, but 90% of her driving is on highways to get to towns for Walmart runs, etc. (often 20 + miles or more away). I convinced her to get a normally aspirated car (rather than a hybrid). As a result, her mpg is as good as or slightly better than her sisters hybrid on the highway and cost her less to buy. She takes a small hit driving around town which isn't too frequent. Both seem to be very happy. Different solutions for different circumstances.
The numbers don't sound right. The Hybrid would get at least as good highway MPG compared to the gasser. Something is wrong here...both ladies should've gotten the hybrid. I've had both, so I know.
 
Back
Top Bottom