It’s not an electric oil pump.
Oil pumps are positive displacement.
And there is no 10 weight oil.
2025 Toyota 2.5L Engine Oil Viscosity Update.
- Thread starter GI_GRIFF
- Start date
Oil pumps are positive displacement.
And there is no 10 weight oil.
That’s a fine choice. Your engine will operate properly on that grade and will not incur excessive wear under most circumstances.
There are members here that know a LOT about oil. I am not one of them. Toyota is pretty good about trying to make long lasting vehicles, you will probably be ok with their recommendations, just don't spend much time on the racetrack in 100-degree heat. Go 5000 mile or 6-month oil and filter changes, you will probably be fine.
Do you think there is a net gain from running 0w16 vs the 0w8? Im not going to lie, I might not change it out at 5k, more like 6500-7500mi MAX. That should get me about two changes a year.
dont say probably lol! Im always indecisive with stuff like this...
I have been getting some bad info on the oil pump thing evidently. I am old, but I used to be able to buy straight grade SAE10 weight or straight SAE40 weight at the store. I didn't realize they are a thing of the past.
I am not doubting that 0w-16 will work in Camry, but to think that its somehow better is
Thats true. Its when people start making claims that thicker viscosity is somehow bad for the toyota engine, this is how misinformation starts.
Thats true. Its when people start making claims that thicker viscosity is somehow bad for the toyota engine, this is how misinformation starts.
Who does your oil changes?
myself.
In that case, in my opinion, use a brand name engine oil the meets the proper specs, the same with the oil filter, a brand name oil filter. On the filter, keep in mind there are a lot of filters sold for the 2025 Toyotas that fit, that are not to Toyota specs, or if you want to spend a little extra, go to Toyota and buy their TGMO 0w-16 engine oil and genuine oil filter. You will be fine. My dealer told me 6 months or 5000 miles, whichever comes first on the oil change intervals. We do mostly around town driving here though.
I've read most of this thread, but it's been over many days, and I don't remember it all. Forgive me if this has been brought up: Hybrid engines that do not run continuously must have a relatively low oil temperature. IF THAT IS TRUE, compare the viscosity of a 0w8 at that operating oil temp with the viscosity of a 0w20 in a non-hybrid engine at it's operating temp. Notice that the 0w8 operating temp viscosity could very easily be thicker than a 0w20 at higher operating temps. I see many people stating the oil temp is much less than 200 F on these hybrid systems. A Subaru Forester on the highway runs in the 215-220 degree range, and it specs a 0w20. Without looking at a chart, I'd imagine a 0w8 at 175 F is thicker than a 0w20 at 215-220 F. I realize that the average oil temp is NOT the same thing as the maximum oil temp in that engine...but the engines designed to run these very thin oils at least have engineering setups that allow them to do so without making them unreliable or disposable. (By the way, I run ESP 0w30 in that Subaru!) So, take a step up from a 0w8 to 0w16 or 0w20 if you'd like. It's not going to hurt anything...unless you are doing something exceptionally different (WOT at lot, very fast cruising, high altitude driving in mountainous terrain)...in which case it may be prudent to step up to a 16, 20, or even 30 weight.
I think the manual was pretty clear: Thinner oil for better fuel economy and cold climates, thicker oil for hotter climates and better engine protection... 0W-8 probably quite good in cool temperate climates, great fuel economy... but need to change religiously for engine protection... 0W-20 still starts in cold climates since it's 0W but has higher viscosity to protect, and resists fuel dilution slightly better then 8
if you're not in a freezing climate you can no doubt happily use the 10W-30 too
if you're not in a freezing climate you can no doubt happily use the 10W-30 too
Electronically controlled oil pump - it’s controlled by a PWM solenoid and an adjustable volute chamber. It’s still a mechanical oil pump at its core.
But also, there are improvements in base engine design(bearings, piston coatings, offset crank, bore/stroke).
Toyota designed the Dynamic Force engines for a wide latitude of oil viscosities. 0W-8 being the choice during manufacturing. For some engines, thicker is better but I wouldn’t have qualms using “thin” oil in a current A25A/M20A/V35A engine. And if you see severe service, you can use different grades as see fit.
Last edited:
I’ve ran 5W-30 in an RX450h and 0W-16 in a Camry - both called for 0W-20 and 0W-8 respectively. My reasoning - both cars saw service as Ubers. Now that both cars are no longer seeing Uber(150K and 45K, respectively), I’m switching one back to 0W-20, and the other has been using 0W-8 since the last OCI(and Walmart has it reliably now).
If the car sees gig work, high-speed highway/lots of stop & go or towing, a thicker oil can be in play. I’m running 5W-30 in a pair of Tundras that see road trips.
Me. I love Walmart. I go for the people watching.
This is the thing about this dynamic force engine. It runs so **** cool that it makes you wonder what goal a Xw30 is even going to accomplish unless you are hill climbing anywhere on the equator line. This is coming someone who has exclusively used Xw30 in it and am questioning it as the fuel economy in anything but 15C+ really nose dives.
I suspect that others, with the same passion, would be watching you.
Thank you. The point of electronic control is that engine temperature is more precisely contained. It gets up to operating temperature quickly and then stays in a safe range.
The recommended viscosity of thinner oils is where safe efficiency is best achieved.
I would use highest quality 0W20 in a dynamic force V6 (Tacoma/Tundra)or high output I-3 (Corolla GR/Yaris GR).
JMO.
Last edited:
I use a 30w in my wife’s 2022 awd Camry because grocery trips are qualifying laps. Not necessarily from a speeding perspective; but from a stop-and-go perspective.
Similar threads
