you might want to search UOA forum for this engine, I do no recall seeing any reports for it, just 1.5T and 2.0T.
2024 Civic w/NA 2.0 - Honda recommends 0w-20 - Suggestions and thoughts?
- Thread starter NattyBoh
- Start date
I once had TBI in an old Chevy pickup. The parts guy said "OH, you have Toilet Bowl Injection". Which was very appropriate.
Im not finding much on the naturally aspirated 2.0 from Honda under this website much at all. Hence the origination for the thread to being with. I guess I'll have to join a forum to find UOAs.
My girlfriend has a 2016 2.0 LX. Been a solid little car. Creeping up on 100k soon. I go by the minder 15% notification (when the little wrench light comes on). 0-20 synthetic (usually PP and a wix filter).
She’s got about a 30-35 mile mostly highway commute and we run it to our lake house frequently in the summer at 120 miles one way. It generally triggers an OCI @ 10k miles 15%. Even at the OCI the oil still looks pretty nice on the dipstick.
Shes very easy on everything. Still has factory front pads (the rear rotors got rusty because she’s so easy on brakes so I had to replace the rotors and pads)
Honda forums say the CVT tends to smoke the trans fluid by 30k miles. Turns dark etc. I serviced hers at 50k and the fluid that came out looked like what was coming out of the new bottles.
It was a lease so the dealer did the first 2 oil changes or so before she met me but it’s otherwise exclusively serviced by me. Another note, the air filter inlet location on these sucks up all types of road debris. I have to do the air filters every 30k miles.
It blows my mind but you barely even need to rotate the tires on the thing. I think we put fresh on around 77k and it’s at 95k without a rotation yet. No visible wear on the front tires when compared to the rear. She didn’t even know you needed to rotate before I met her and she had the same results at 25k without a rotation.
She’s got about a 30-35 mile mostly highway commute and we run it to our lake house frequently in the summer at 120 miles one way. It generally triggers an OCI @ 10k miles 15%. Even at the OCI the oil still looks pretty nice on the dipstick.
Shes very easy on everything. Still has factory front pads (the rear rotors got rusty because she’s so easy on brakes so I had to replace the rotors and pads)
Honda forums say the CVT tends to smoke the trans fluid by 30k miles. Turns dark etc. I serviced hers at 50k and the fluid that came out looked like what was coming out of the new bottles.
It was a lease so the dealer did the first 2 oil changes or so before she met me but it’s otherwise exclusively serviced by me. Another note, the air filter inlet location on these sucks up all types of road debris. I have to do the air filters every 30k miles.
It blows my mind but you barely even need to rotate the tires on the thing. I think we put fresh on around 77k and it’s at 95k without a rotation yet. No visible wear on the front tires when compared to the rear. She didn’t even know you needed to rotate before I met her and she had the same results at 25k without a rotation.
As to why someone might not reset the MM .. in my case Honda is offering "free" oil change service(s) for the first 2 years or 24,000 miles. I just bought an FL5 CTR and there is no way in hell I'm pushing the OCI to 10k plus miles as the MM might indicate. (Honda will only do the the service interval @ 15% showing on the MM) I'm at 6500 miles on the car and the MM is still at 50%. By the time my MM gets to 15% and I go to the dealer for my "free" service it will probably be the 3rd OCI on the car.
Do your research, the 2.0 is a NA port injection engine, does NOT have the OD issues that the 1.5t, a Direct injection Turbocharged engine sometimes has. A good 0w20 like Mobil1 0w20 EP and factory filters will work just fine. The MM does not measure oil condition, it's essentially a " best guess " algorithm designed to minimize costs for the owner and get the car through the warranty period. If you want to keep it long- term, shorter term OCI's between 5-7k will be beneficial. It has been suggested to me by knowledgeable Honda professionals, a spill and fill on the CVT every 30k is a prudent practice. As in all vehicles, pro-active maintenance pays off in the long-term. Not just my opinion, but that of people I trust who have serviced Hondas for many years.
Read my posts. My research involved UOAs that showed 5% oil dilution in m1 EP 0w-20 with 3.4k miles. And I drive 90% highway. Take a look at UOA forums to see what kind of viscosity drops and fuel dilutions are seen in Honda 2.0T. I dont know about non turbo engine
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Why not do what your owners book says...
I am sure that they know more than Honda on a car they built....
Was responding to the OP who has the 2.0 K20C2 NA engine. The 2.0t does share the OD issue with the 1.5t as do most DI engines with forced induction. The 2.0t is not available in base model Civics only in the Type R, it was available in Accords, but not anymore. The 2.0 NA is also used in the HRV'S. It's a purely normally aspirated and is generally considered a extremely reliable engine with few issues.
Five pages of a mind-numbing thread here 
Use a quality 5w20 or 0W20. Nothing special or robust the first change. You might want a better filter than the Blue Fram. Mazda O.E Tokyo Roki or ??
OCI to how you drive.
Short trips low mileage 4-5k mi OCI; Mostly highway use OLM or 7500+
Not a troublesome engine.
Oh, and 2k on the FF + or -.
Use a quality 5w20 or 0W20. Nothing special or robust the first change. You might want a better filter than the Blue Fram. Mazda O.E Tokyo Roki or ??
OCI to how you drive.
Short trips low mileage 4-5k mi OCI; Mostly highway use OLM or 7500+
Not a troublesome engine.
Oh, and 2k on the FF + or -.
Good reccomendation, although I went back to the OEM filter after most of the brands I trusted sold out to Mann-Hummel and got quality/consistency issues. Other than motor oil (I've used Mobil1 synthetc products for at least 35+ years, always API rated GF-6 Dexos1Gen3 which is what Honda reccomends) Other fluids, Transmission, coolant, differential (CRV) and coolant are always genuine Honda. I used the M1 M110A filters when they were made by Champion, now actually Purolator (Mann-Hummel) now I've stopped obsessing and worrying about filters and just use the Honda A02. I also use Honda intake and cabin filters. As I have extended Hondacare, at 76, I have a trusted dealership do my servicing. The CRV is coming up on its 4 year brake fluid service, it only has 11k on it. I still change my own air filters though, wipers too. Forgot to mention, per Hondas reccomendation, Toptier fuels only.Five pages of a mind-numbing thread here
Use a quality 5w20 or 0W20. Nothing special or robust the first change. You might want a better filter than the Blue Fram. Mazda O.E Tokyo Roki or ??
OCI to how you drive.
Short trips low mileage 4-5k mi OCI; Mostly highway use OLM or 7500+
Not a troublesome engine.
Oh, and 2k on the FF + or -.
On my 2007 Honda Accord with a 2.4 I had 386000 on it and used a FRAM filter...Just use a name brand filter and you will be fine...I used Mobile 1 oil and a FRAM tufguard 7317 filter...
Advanced fuel economy one...
Patman
Staff member
I have 218,000 km on my 2016 Civic LX with the 2.0 engine and I have used a few different 0w20 synthetics since I bought the car with 130,000 km on it. I follow the maintenance minder, usually changing when it hits around 10% or so. By that point it's usually about 14,000 to 16,000 km. It doesn't consume any oil and over the last 10,000 km it has averaged 5.3L per 100km (44.3 MPG) Honestly, these engines are nearly bulletproof, there are many of them with 300,000 miles or more out there. The more important thing to make sure you do is change the CVT fluid regularly.
I’d assume the car will tell me when to get the service done? The CVT fluid, is what I’m talking about
Just changed mine on my 21 hrv and it was very easy.. I would use only Honda OEM fluid....I changed mine at 30000 miles and will change every 30000 miles after that.Fluid looked great on the first change...
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