2024 BRZ; Amsoil or other lube?

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Feb 15, 2025
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I've owned my Subaru 2024 BRZ (Canada) for one year, and it was my plan to run Amsoil 5w20 SS in it for the first season which I did. It is a 3 -season car only, put away in storage during winter. Very low use and miles, only 3,300 kms in one year of ownership. I dumped the factory fluid at 400 miles (600 kms) and ran the Amsoil fluid for the rest of the season. I have fresh Amsoil 5w20 in it now ahead of winter storage. I was not able to collect a used oil sample, it was my intention but I dumped it before I could get a sample. My car is very lightly driven, only casual street use, as a pleasure use vehicle.

My dealer thinks that I should be in there every 6 months for an oil change based on the warranty, but I am no where near the mileage recommendation. It was my plan to get a dealer oil change once per year just to keep them as friends in case a warranty issue arose. I think Subaru uses Idemitsu in their oil supply system.

As the car is in winter storage I've been thinking that I might prefer to just run a good quality over-the-counter motor oil that I can easily find at my local supply store rather than going through the Amsoil ordering/shipping process. I am also wondering if the dealer would make a fuss about Amsoil should there be a warranty claim needed. I do have an extended warranty. Amsoil is a bit expensive but I'm only doing one fluid change a year so price isn't a big factor. With the car only being used in 3-season weather I could run 5w30, I have avoided the 0w oils as they all have higher NOACK Volatility numbers, so I ran 5w20 instead of 0w20 in the past 12 months.

If I go to an over-the-counter oil I want it to have a low NOACK volatility number, I think that is helpful with a direct injected motor (though my engine has dual injection systems) . I was very pleased with the Amsoil 5w20 NOACK numbers. I would like any new oil to be a true Group 4 oil, not a Group 3. I also like to see a decent dose of Moly in my oils, complimented with some Boron. I'm open to 5w20 or 5w30. I'd really like a 0W30 motor oil but the NOACK volatility numbers all see higher on that viscosity compared to the 5w variants. A shear stable oil is also important, I've heard people report that the chain operation and design of this motor shears oil at an increased rate. The motor on this car was revamped in 2020, I believe it is rated for SN plus or higher, but an SP or SQ would be a plus for timing chain wear protection.

I think the only option in my region that might satisfy my requirements is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and perhaps one of the Mobil 1 formulas, I was very close to trying Liqui Moly for the 2026 season but I held back on buying it thus far, I think it is a group 3 oil. I might be able to locate Idemitsu Oil from local supply stores, but I don't know much about that oil. Is there any other oil that I might be missing on the list of potential oils I can run for the next season that checks all of the boxes ?

Thanks for reading and any suggestions.
 
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Any over the counter oil will do you just fine ! As you will be probably be changing oil every 5000 kilometres or close to that.
I would also use 5w30 .
Running Amsoil will not likely benefit you in anyway in the conditions you will be running ?
 
I’m not aware of any group 4 only oils off the shelf, or anywhere. I’m assuming you want group 4 and 5. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is GTL(group 3). Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 is GTL/PAO/Ester(group 3,4, and 5. Probably the closest to a boutique available OTS.
 
If warranty specifically requires 2x oil & filter changes per 12 months, then that's your answer.

Thanks. I have to look into the warranty matter a bit further. When the dealer calls it is a lady that books the service work for Subaru at the service counter. She said that my car was due for an oil change, I told her I only had 3,000 kms on the car at the time and I did not want to dump the oil that soon ( oil change recommendations are more than double that amount on mileage), she replied that it is mileage or every six months ? I don't believe her so I need to check with someone else at the dealer about this. The car is one year old as of today's date, it has been idle since the end of October in winter storage. I have done two oil changes myself but I wasn't about to tell her that, she was a bit snippy with me. lol
 
Canadian laws will differ than US, but you may have some similar.

Don't assume a Subaru dealership's service department is using Subaru-branded oil. Ask what bulk oil they use for oil changes. My closest Honda service department only uses Pennzoil Platinum, not even Ultra.

Be straight up with them on using Amsoil. Ask them if they'll use an oil you provide. Their main purpose is to get you into the service department to upsell other services (you really should replace your windshield wipers). In the US, the use of a specific oil, or any other part, can't be required unless it's provided at no charge to you forever, not just the first two years of complimentary service (as an example). The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (again, US), provides protections against unreasonable requirements and puts the burden of proof on the manufacturer to prove parts used, including oil, caused a failure.

Obviously you believe Amsoil is the best product for your vehicle, so I wouldn't give up on it yet. My first oil change was at 500 miles using Amsoil Signature Series, also.

I chose to not use the Recommended API donut-approved oil shown in the owner's manual, and started a 3-ring binder when I bought my Pilot last year to keep all purchase receipts and document everything, including pictures during oil changes, relevant emails, Used Oil Analysis (UOA) results, Product Data Sheets, etc. If I think it might be useful if arbitration was ever required, or a court, it goes in the binder.

If warranty specifically requires 2x oil & filter changes per 12 months, then that's your answer.
Does your Owner's Manual say Required or Recommended? Mine never uses the word Required, but the accompanying text makes it sound like all heck will rain down upon you if you don't use their Recommended oils.

Screenshot 2026-01-18 at 10.03.54.webp
 
Time for a big dollop of reality ...

What you want is, well, not a necessity. I say this because you stated that it won't be driven hard. It's only a 3 season car. And if your previous mileage is any indication, it won't see much use (equivalent to 2k miles a year). You can want what you want, and there's nothing wrong with that.

But given your stated conditions, just about any API SP lube (no matter what base stock) is going to do just fine and your engine will not suffer in the least. Your engine won't know the difference between Supertech lube and Amsoil, or anything else for that matter, given the way you intend to use the car. Seriously, you won't see one iota of difference in wear data; statistically just won't happen.


BTW - there are some EXCELLENT group III lubes out there. Don't be one of those base-stock bigots.
 
...she replied that it is mileage or every six months ? I don't believe her so I need to check with someone else at the dealer about this. The car is one year old as of today's date, it has been idle since the end of October in winter storage. I have done two oil changes myself but I wasn't about to tell her that, she was a bit snippy with me. lol
Don't take the word of anyone at the dealership. What does your owner's manual say? Keep the hardcopy which came with the vehicle in a safe place, as it is the only source of truth. You can always keep a digital copy to reference if needed.
 
Canadian laws will differ than US, but you may have some similar.

Don't assume a Subaru dealership's service department is using Subaru-branded oil. Ask what bulk oil they use for oil changes. My closest Honda service department only uses Pennzoil Platinum, not even Ultra.

Be straight up with them on using Amsoil. Ask them if they'll use an oil you provide. Their main purpose is to get you into the service department to upsell other services (you really should replace your windshield wipers). In the US, the use of a specific oil, or any other part, can't be required unless it's provided at no charge to you forever, not just the first two years of complimentary service (as an example). The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (again, US), provides protections against unreasonable requirements and puts the burden of proof on the manufacturer to prove parts used, including oil, caused a failure.

Obviously you believe Amsoil is the best product for your vehicle, so I wouldn't give up on it yet. My first oil change was at 500 miles using Amsoil Signature Series, also.

I chose to not use the Recommended API donut-approved oil shown in the owner's manual, and started a 3-ring binder when I bought my Pilot last year to keep all purchase receipts and document everything, including pictures during oil changes, relevant emails, Used Oil Analysis (UOA) results, Product Data Sheets, etc. If I think it might be useful if arbitration was ever required, or a court, it goes in the binder.


Does your Owner's Manual say Required or Recommended? Mine never uses the word Required, but the accompanying text makes it sound like all heck will rain down upon you if you don't use their Recommended oils.

View attachment 320489

Thanks for the reply. Everything in my owners manual is recommended. I am sure if I go to the dealership and speak to a service manager they will treat me fine, I've bought a few vehicles form them and I have dealt with the dealership owner quite a bit. I will look into it further. I am quite happy with the Amsoil, it meets most of my requirements, but sometimes it is just easier to get fluids at a local supplier just around the corner from my home when I need it. The API rating is a bit of a concern. You are doing it right with all of the documentation, the idea of pictures and emails is a good idea, I agree , that is a good process/plan.
 
Seriously, you won't see one iota of difference in wear data; statistically just won't happen.
This^^^

My perspective has been the difference between what a dealer saying must be done vs what is required.

Added: US and Canadian laws will differ. Consider my post for entertainment purposes only. :rolleyes:

I have said in other threads... if I was starting over, I'd probably be running Valvoline Restore and Protect at 5k OCIs. The oil meets all manufacturer Requirements and the engine will live a long, healthy life.
 
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Time for a big dollop of reality ...

What you want is, well, not a necessity. I say this because you stated that it won't be driven hard. It's only a 3 season car. And if your previous mileage is any indication, it won't see much use (equivalent to 2k miles a year). You can want what you want, and there's nothing wrong with that.

But given your stated conditions, just about any API SP lube (no matter what base stock) is going to do just fine and your engine will not suffer in the least. Your engine won't know the difference between Supertech lube and Amsoil, or anything else for that matter, given the way you intend to use the car. Seriously, you won't see one iota of difference in wear data; statistically just won't happen.


BTW - there are some EXCELLENT group III lubes out there. Don't be one of those base-stock bigots.

Thanks for the reply, I have a hard time with reality sometimes , lol. But I truly believe you are 100% correct. Looking for the fountain of youth for my cars seems to be an obsession, I really need to focus on other things :)

I have been a Group 3 racist for a long time, it is a mental barrier I need to break. I think with me committing to an over the counter oil may be a good step in that direction.
 
I will add Subaru’s are prone to piston deposits. So cheaper oils aren’t a good fit. I own two Subarus and maintain five total. The OTS oils I recommend are Valvoline Restore and Protect and Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. These will keep those pistons clean and avoid oil consumption problems. AMSOIL Signature Series will also accomplish this of course.
 
I will add Subaru’s are prone to piston deposits. So cheaper oils aren’t a good fit. I own two Subarus and maintain five total. The OTS oils I recommend are Valvoline Restore and Protect and Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. These will keep those pistons clean and avoid oil consumption problems. AMSOIL Signature Series will also accomplish this of course.

Thanks for the reply and oil suggestions, do you think NOACK volatility numbers are worth worrying about ? I would like to use a 0w30 oil visc. but most 5w's I see appear to have lower NOACK. I kind of associated NOACK with less vapours flowing through the pcv system and less oil consumption etc. Piston deposits are important to me with this being a high compression motor and DI etc.
 
Thanks for the reply and oil suggestions, do you think NOACK volatility numbers are worth worrying about ? I would like to use a 0w30 oil visc. but most 5w's I see appear to have lower NOACK. I kind of associated NOACK with less vapours flowing through the pcv system and less oil consumption etc. Piston deposits are important to me with this being a high compression motor and DI etc.
I do like low Noack. Unfortunately you’re not going to get Amsoil Noack numbers OTS. ESP is around 8% and holds up for severe 5k mile oci’s for me. Valvoline is vague on Noack numbers showing <15…
 
Thanks for the reply and oil suggestions, do you think NOACK volatility numbers are worth worrying about ? I would like to use a 0w30 oil visc. but most 5w's I see appear to have lower NOACK. I kind of associated NOACK with less vapours flowing through the pcv system and less oil consumption etc. Piston deposits are important to me with this being a high compression motor and DI etc.
They will have lower Noack if all other things are equal when it comes to composition. Many 0W30 oils have higher quality base.
 
I will add Subaru’s are prone to piston deposits. So cheaper oils aren’t a good fit. I own two Subarus and maintain five total. The OTS oils I recommend are Valvoline Restore and Protect and Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. These will keep those pistons clean and avoid oil consumption problems. AMSOIL Signature Series will also accomplish this of course.

Why are Subarus prone to piston deposits ?

I got a Subaru and it gets up to operating temperature and never short trips.
 
Canadian laws will differ than US, but you may have some similar.

Don't assume a Subaru dealership's service department is using Subaru-branded oil. Ask what bulk oil they use for oil changes. My closest Honda service department only uses Pennzoil Platinum, not even Ultra.

Be straight up with them on using Amsoil. Ask them if they'll use an oil you provide. Their main purpose is to get you into the service department to upsell other services (you really should replace your windshield wipers). In the US, the use of a specific oil, or any other part, can't be required unless it's provided at no charge to you forever, not just the first two years of complimentary service (as an example). The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act (again, US), provides protections against unreasonable requirements and puts the burden of proof on the manufacturer to prove parts used, including oil, caused a failure.*

Obviously you believe Amsoil is the best product for your vehicle, so I wouldn't give up on it yet. My first oil change was at 500 miles using Amsoil Signature Series, also.

I chose to not use the Recommended API donut-approved oil shown in the owner's manual, and started a 3-ring binder when I bought my Pilot last year to keep all purchase receipts and document everything, including pictures during oil changes, relevant emails, Used Oil Analysis (UOA) results, Product Data Sheets, etc. If I think it might be useful if arbitration was ever required, or a court, it goes in the binder.


Does your Owner's Manual say Required or Recommended? Mine never uses the word Required, but the accompanying text makes it sound like all heck will rain down upon you if you don't use their Recommended oils.

View attachment 320489
*this doesn't prevent the manufacturer from requiring a certain specification/approval/oil grade etc. They just can't make the warranty contingent on a particular brand or using the dealer for it. It's a nuance that is v. important here and one that many get wrong.
 
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