I had electronic dipsticks in a 2018 Q5, 2019 Q5, 2018 A4, 2014 911 and 2021 Cayman S. All have been accurate I have driven about 100k miles in these cars and check the oil regularly. When I drain the oil it pretty much equals what the digital guage readsAbsolutely, BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, do this what Trav said!
Do not panic. We, who own European vehicles, therefore know what is good, will help you
2018 Audi Q7
- Thread starter johndw28
- Start date
The one in the 996 was good but the digital dipstick in my VW is pretty annoying. It wants a specific happy dance to get it to work after an oil change.
Easier to just install a dipstick. They're pretty cheap from the dealer. Having both never hurt.
and here begins the saga of buying a well-used, high-end, out-of-warranty, euro car…
my two mbenz c280 and glk, and current 2013 vw passat, were cpo with extended warranties. i loved driving the two mbenz and sold them as their warranties ran out and expenses mounted; sorry but i’m no diy-er. the vw is a simple 2.5 n.a. base s model, out of warranty but still quite ok.
and ah, and the saga of women and high-end cars… i once loaned my glk to my younger sister when i was overseas for four months. she fell in love with it, even named it klaus, and keeps telling me how much she wants one. i keep reminding her that she knows horses, not cars, and she can either afford to keep her beloved horse or get a well-used glk, but not both. so far she listens to me.
my two mbenz c280 and glk, and current 2013 vw passat, were cpo with extended warranties. i loved driving the two mbenz and sold them as their warranties ran out and expenses mounted; sorry but i’m no diy-er. the vw is a simple 2.5 n.a. base s model, out of warranty but still quite ok.
and ah, and the saga of women and high-end cars… i once loaned my glk to my younger sister when i was overseas for four months. she fell in love with it, even named it klaus, and keeps telling me how much she wants one. i keep reminding her that she knows horses, not cars, and she can either afford to keep her beloved horse or get a well-used glk, but not both. so far she listens to me.
The V8 is the one that is notorious for that.
There is nothing specific about this issue. V6 with supercharger is known for bad oil separator. Also, they like to “drink” a bit of oil as it has low tension piston rings.
On other hand, no dealership or indy could identify why my brakes were soft on Toyota until I changed master cylinder. That is where saga begins with overhyped reliability.
These engines are probably best Audi released in the last 20 years. Key is finding good Euro Indy who KNOWS symptoms as opposed to throwing parts at the problem.
Hi edyvw. Could you expound on what you mean by "finding a good Euro indy who knows the symptoms"? Were you referencing an independent mechanic or something else? Thanks.
Also you seem to think this vehicle I bought has a pretty good engine and that looking at the oil separator would be a good place to possibly begin to try improve the oil consumption issue?
It is an excellent engine mated to excellent transmission.
Yes, find good independent shop that knows European vehicles or VW/Audi cars. This is older engine that was introduced in 2009. Weaknesses are well known. But be ready still for small consumption.
Don’t run away from dealership too. Check prices etc. European dealerships became lately much more affordable as they fight for market share. I bought some stuff in BMW that are cheaper than Dorman products on RockAuto. Call them. Check pricing for oil separator if they determine it is culprit. Compare it to indy shops.
Don’t get lured into marketing like Liqui Moly etc. Slow down and shop around. As I mentioned, necessary oils (better) are available locally. Browse around internet.
If your car is still under some state law where you could return it, I would go to Audi dealership and do something similar to PPI. Pay for inspection, tell them about oil issue and see what they say. Once they determine, go to place where you bought vehicle and ask them to cover it. If it is really big issue, go after them.
Thanks again so much. Earlier in the thread you said this:
Mobil1 ESP 0W30 and ESP 5W30 for $37 for 5qt. are better for Liqui Moly?
I know this will sound like a dumb question but I'm very new when it comes to understanding engines? So 0W30 or 5W30 is safe to use in a 2018 Audi Q7? I don't need to limit myself to oils which are 5W40?
Also I totally trust you that the oil you mentioned is better than Liqui Moly... but could you explain layman's terms why it is better for my car?
Thanks!
@johndw28
For what it's worth, I run Valvoline 5-40 in my car with the same engine. Going on 4k miles, it did not burn a drop of oil. This is going by the oil monitor in the MMI and by the dipstick.
I always recommend changing the oil separator on any 2nd hand 3.0. While your mechanic is in there, changing the thermostat is also easy.
To simplify everything, log on to FCP Euro's website, create an account and start shopping. Everything is lifetime warranty including oil and filter.
For what it's worth, I run Valvoline 5-40 in my car with the same engine. Going on 4k miles, it did not burn a drop of oil. This is going by the oil monitor in the MMI and by the dipstick.
I always recommend changing the oil separator on any 2nd hand 3.0. While your mechanic is in there, changing the thermostat is also easy.
To simplify everything, log on to FCP Euro's website, create an account and start shopping. Everything is lifetime warranty including oil and filter.
Sound advice. Depending on the state that he lives in, he might be able to take it to the dealer he purchased it from. Some states HAVE to give you a warranty if you spend over a x amount.
Yep. I would go to Audi service and have them document everything.
Valvoline EUro was always a good, albeit easily forgotten option.
What matters are VW approvals, not grades per se.
What does the sticker or manual say? VW 502.00 or VW504.00/507.00? I think being 2018, it will say VW504.00/507.00 That engine required VW502.00 before 2017 due to high sulfur in American gas. You can run ether, VW502.00 or VW504.00/507.00
Mobil1 ESP 0/5W30 is the best you can get. Top-notch, and yes, always preferred choice over Liqui Moly.
But bottom line, you go with oil that carry approval. VW502.00 can be in 0/5W30 or 0/5W40. VW504.00/507.00 only comes in 0/5W30 flavor. Take into consideration that Euro oils are far more stringent than your off-the-shelf 5W30. So always pay attention to approvals.
I tend to run/recommend 40 grades for those. I like the higher hths. It's all I used in these engines with stellar results. Besides, that vehicle is quite heavier than my S4 and that 3.0 will have to work harder.
Not knocking the M1 0/5-30 esp. It's just been a pain to get in NH.
@edyvw
Don't forget the spiritual connection between LM and German cars. German cars get mad at you when you don't use German made oil in them.
Some say that a strong bond was formed between a white Sportswagen and Liqui Moly. That bond was so strong that when the owner decided to switch brands, the car decided to eat its engine.
The owner has contacted Ghost Hunters about the ghostly bond. It will be on Season 5.
(Poke poke poke)
Don't forget the spiritual connection between LM and German cars. German cars get mad at you when you don't use German made oil in them.
Some say that a strong bond was formed between a white Sportswagen and Liqui Moly. That bond was so strong that when the owner decided to switch brands, the car decided to eat its engine.
The owner has contacted Ghost Hunters about the ghostly bond. It will be on Season 5.
(Poke poke poke)
Q7 will have more robust cooling system. If oil temperature is in check, that is all it matters. Some XW40 oils really don’t have substantially higher HTHS or are not that heavier than XW30. Mobil1 is at 3.6 in 0W40 flavor. I highly doubt Castrol 5W40 is more than 3.6 if that. Pennzoil is known to have very high HTHS relative to KV100.
Motul is also good option and high HTHS. Mitul X-Clean 5W40 VW511.00 has HTHS 3.9.
Lol
100% Liqui moly is not in the same class as the ESP oils. Absolutely no to aftermarket parts, OE only. OE or Mann filters.
I'd like to know why you think that LM oils are not on par wish ESP oils.
What would make ESP superior to LM Synthoil 0-40 or NewGen2 5-40???
The earlier 3.0t's would rattle from the timing chain area. New secondary chain tensioners were a somewhat easy repair, but sometimes they needed primary chains as well. And that is $$$.
