2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L GDI QSUD 5W20 3,800 Miles

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Wait - I'm confused (as always)..... So you now prefer to keep the oil dipstick level at a half quart over, or a half quart low?
T7. . . in our old (now my son's) 2.0T Santa Fe, after Hyundai updated the dipstick to increase oil level at the full mark, I noticed that oil level would not stay at full. I learned that if the oil level was allowed to drop to about the mid-point between high / low marks on the dipstick, the level would stabilize at that point, with no further need to add oil. In the case of the 2.0T, the new dipstick only increased the sump level by .24 qts., but that was enough to cause a consumption issue in that vehicle. I'd suggested to Chris that allowing the level to drop slightly on the dipstick might solve his consumption issue.
 
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I wonder if the added .24 has anything to do with my 2020 model 2.0's capacity at 4.23. I wonder if it was listed at 4.0 capacity, prior to the dipstick change years. Lots of wondering. I'm just thankful this 2020 Soul X-Line 2.0 has no turbo or DI to deal with.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I wonder if the added .24 has anything to do with my 2020 model 2.0's capacity at 4.23. I wonder if it was listed at 4.0 capacity, prior to the dipstick change years. Lots of wondering. I'm just thankful this 2020 Soul X-Line 2.0 has no turbo or DI to deal with.
A lot of people avoid GDI-T, but honestly the 2.0T Santa Fe has been one of the most trouble-free vehicle we've owned. My son has driven it for over a year with no issues. I do the oil changes for him and limit them to severe service intervals (4000 miles). I actually regret not getting the turbo version in our 2019--that's a fun engine to drive compared to the 2.4L, but my wife liked the 2.4L--she won that (very brief) debate!
 
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One quart of consumption in 3,800 miles seems like a lot for a relatively new engine. My 2018 2.4 Hyundai GDI doesn't use any oil during an OCI, which for me has been 4K mile OCI's. I only have 20,000 miles on the car but to me an engine at 34k or 20k should be in the same mechanical condition.
 
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I feel bad for Chris. I remember when my Colorado hit around 80K - it started using oil, despite taking care of the engine with utmost responsibity and care. That bugged me too. It now has 130K and uses about 1.25 quart in 4K. Most would say that's pretty good. But Chris' vehicle is much younger and much lower miles.
 
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Originally Posted by Robster
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
I wonder if the added .24 has anything to do with my 2020 model 2.0's capacity at 4.23. I wonder if it was listed at 4.0 capacity, prior to the dipstick change years. Lots of wondering. I'm just thankful this 2020 Soul X-Line 2.0 has no turbo or DI to deal with.
A lot of people avoid GDI-T, but honestly the 2.0T Santa Fe has been one of the most trouble-free vehicle we've owned. My son has driven it for over a year with no issues. I do the oil changes for him and limit them to severe service intervals (4000 miles). I actually regret not getting the turbo version in our 2019--that's a fun engine to drive compared to the 2.4L, but my wife liked the 2.4L--she won that (very brief) debate!
My girlfriend's 2013 Sonata has been relatively trouble free so far but it has under 70k on it, 7 years old. That's like a new vehicle by my standards. I judge reliability after 10+ years of model being out.
 
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Engine troubles that are severe on the 2.4 mostly being at a later odometer reading. You are good, until you start hearing the 2.4 rod bearings. In the early years like 2013, it may not clatter until 120k. Most sooner, but very few later than that. Depends on how / when / where it was built and how it was taken care-of. I will try everything in my power to preserve our 2.4GDI. SN Plus oil using the best cleaning oils. Dexos 1 Gen 2 many times. No OCIs over 4K. Top-tier gas without ethanol whenever possible (real hard to find in Michigan) . Techron Gas Treatments at 5k. CRC Intake Cleaner Sprays at almost 12k........etc. I just found out last week that Michigan does not require gas pumps to wear Up-to 10% Ethanol stickers anymore. That's a PITA. Ethanol accelerates carbon buildup.
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Engine troubles that are severe on the 2.4 mostly being at a later odometer reading. You are good, until you start hearing the 2.4 rod bearings. In the early years like 2013, it may not clatter until 120k. Some sooner, but few later than that. Depends on how / when it was built and how it was taken care-of. I will try everything in my power to preserve our 2.4GDI. SN Plus using the best cleaning oils. No OCIs over 4K. Top-tier gas without ethanol whenever possible. Techron Gas Treatments at 5k. CRC Intake Cleaner Sprays at 10k........etc.
My friend who is a tech at the garage I used to work at (and I'm now a customer) had his 2.4 seize without warning at 100k. No noise before that and no noticeable oil consumption. He's still happy with the vehicle and knew engine failure was a possibility when he bought it but they gave him a loaner and a new long block installed in a week. My girlfriend's has less miles but it's all short trips and smells like lots of fuel dilution especially in the cold winter weather. My girlfriend is not a worrier so I'm not pushing her to maintain it like you or I would but it gets oil changed every 3-5 months now at around 2k miles. Just cheap 5w30 bulk done in the shop so we have the receipts if asked when the engine finally seizes up.
 
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Do a leak down or compression test. Check your PCV and maybe try switching to a thick HiMi in the event oil is getting past a stem seal. If you identify a cylinder with low compression, try a series of piston soaks. Keep in mind it may take several oci's of using something like a Rislone to free it. It didn't get stuck overnight and it ain't gonna unstick itself overnight either. Your Fe levels could be a little lower for a <4k mile drain interval but it's not out of control so it's not something I'd set my hair on fire over but do keep an eye on it. And your soft metals are still quite low (a good sign) so it doesn't look like the free iron is eating into something like the liner/walls or bearings. I would not be surprised to see Fe levels drop over a similar interval by going up a grade. If i owned a GDI, I'd personally run a very thick Xw30 or even a 5w/10w40 (ambient dependent) but that's just me. Next time do opt for the flash point test. It's another data point to help identify evolving issues.
 
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Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
I think we're getting a little worked up over the amount of oil consumed aren't we?
Agreed. Comparatively it's not a huge amount of oil being consumed but it's still something. My engine consumes little to no oil, so if I developed a 1qt over 4k mile consumption, it would be disconcerting to me as it could portend an evolving problem or in some vehicles it could be just "normal"...so it's all relative I guess.
 
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
I think we're getting a little worked up over the amount of oil consumed aren't we?
Agreed. Comparatively it's not a huge amount of oil being consumed but it's still something. My engine consumes little to no oil, so if I developed a 1qt over 4k mile consumption, it would be disconcerting to me as it could portend an evolving problem or in some vehicles it could be just "normal"...so it's all relative I guess.
I would just monitor it and if it doesn't get any worse, no worries. Experimenting with different oils might find one that it consumes less but that wouldn't help for monitoring any trend in oil usage increasing or decreasing. Maybe it uses more of what you try next time, inducing fear and panic.
 
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Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
I think we're getting a little worked up over the amount of oil consumed aren't we?
Agreed. Comparatively it's not a huge amount of oil being consumed but it's still something. My engine consumes little to no oil, so if I developed a 1qt over 4k mile consumption, it would be disconcerting to me as it could portend an evolving problem or in some vehicles it could be just "normal"...so it's all relative I guess.
I would just monitor it and if it doesn't get any worse, no worries. Experimenting with different oils might find one that it consumes less but that wouldn't help for monitoring any trend in oil usage increasing or decreasing. Maybe it uses more of what you try next time, inducing fear and panic.
+1
 

ChrisD46

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*Thanks for the notes … I now have a fill of PUP 5W30 and will stay with a heavier 5W30 synthetic D1/Gen 2 oil (such as Valvoline Advanced).
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Do a leak down or compression test. Check your PCV and maybe try switching to a thick HiMi in the event oil is getting past a stem seal. If you identify a cylinder with low compression, try a series of piston soaks. Keep in mind it may take several oci's of using something like a Rislone to free it. It didn't get stuck overnight and it ain't gonna unstick itself overnight either. Your Fe levels could be a little lower for a <4k mile drain interval but it's not out of control so it's not something I'd set my hair on fire over but do keep an eye on it. And your soft metals are still quite low (a good sign) so it doesn't look like the free iron is eating into something like the liner/walls or bearings. I would not be surprised to see Fe levels drop over a similar interval by going up a grade. If i owned a GDI, I'd personally run a very thick Xw30 or even a 5w/10w40 (ambient dependent) but that's just me. Next time do opt for the flash point test. It's another data point to help identify evolving issues.
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*Thanks for the notes … I now have a fill of PUP 5W30 and will stay with a heavier 5W30 synthetic D1/Gen 2 oil (such as Valvoline Advanced).
Sounds like a plan... keep us posted. 👍
 

ChrisD46

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*Will do ... 4 month / 4K Mile OCI with my GD! 2.4L Hyundai and with either Valvoline Advanced , M1 or PP / PUP 5W30 . I know the Valvoline Advanced 5W30 has the lowest amount of VII's which is helpful to a GDI engine reduce intake valve deposits - but the ash content is higher than Pennzoil or M1 synthetic oils. I'm hoping to figure out which brands I will use exclusively in the future but for sure all three of these are going to be fairly close . I choose Pennzoil as being the flag ship SOPUS oils while I believe Castrol gets beaten out by the oils I mentioned for GDI engine applications (M1 , Valvoline and Pennzoil) . (
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*Thanks for the notes … I now have a fill of PUP 5W30 and will stay with a heavier 5W30 synthetic D1/Gen 2 oil (such as Valvoline Advanced).
Sounds like a plan... keep us posted. 👍
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
A poster else where has a theory that after Hyundai changed dipsticks in GDI engines to allow for approx. 1/2 qrt. more oil that those who experience oil drop to see if it settles down in between the FULL and ADD marks ? Seems like a logical thing to try as perhaps my GDI engine tends to use more oil when kept at the FULL mark for some reason ?
Originally Posted by odie
The previous oil fill had level drop a bit below FULL when driving more at interstate speeds ( 65 ) . The oil was Platinum 5w-20 ( Dexos 1 , Gen 2 ) and remains the same . At 2900 + miles and no drop as of yet . Will consider shorter O.C..
Light just went on in my head. The oil change after I took my 2011 Kia Optima in to have the engine checked it started to use oil. I will just let it be a little bit low on the dip stick and see if it goes down any further. I have been topping up about a half a liter ever 7500 km oil change. Thanks for that insight!
 
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