2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5 N/A CVT 266k Kms

I picked up a pair of front stabilizer bar bushings at the Subaru dealership this afternoon to hopefully cure the intermittent clunk. While I was there, I made an appointment for Wedenesday to have the outstanding recalls done and a transmission software update @14Accent . I'll do a shift adapt reset before heading over.
 
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Replaced the front stablilizer bar bushings today. The car is quiet, smooth and solid driving now, it drives like a brand new car. The keyless entry also did not work on this car and I only got one key with the car. I opened the case and the battery tested okay but, after looking closer at the battery, it was the incorrect one :ROFLMAO: . While at the dealership on the weekend I also picked up a battery for it and installed it today; it works now! CR1620 batteries are sold out everywhere I checked but the dealer and more expensive than the bushings :ROFLMAO: . I've lost track but I think it's 7-0 for me, :ROFLMAO: so far.
 
Good for you to revive this car. There's a few videos on youtube about just replacing the individual failed solenoids in the valve body which can save lots of money if that's an issue in the future.

I can vouch for this. We are original owners of our 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0 with CVT, now at nearly 180,000 miles. I serviced the CVT fluid with Valvoline CVT fluid at around 100k miles. Somewhere over 150k the trans starting acting funny and set off all the dashboard lights. I narrowed down that the Subaru dealer repair would be a new valve body. With install and programming, $1500? Then I found the aftermarket supplied individual solenoids that go bad. The valve body is on top of trans sort of under the firewall. Pulled the valve body, diagnosed solenoids, replaced one, can't remember which and kept on truckin'. No dealer, no $200 programming charges. About $100, not even fluid change.

It's had a few hubs/wheel bearings. It uses/burns some oil as many/most of these do. It wasn't bad enough for a recall. It's got some rattles and probably I should be looking at some quit struts by now... but plan is to just run it for another 20k miles or so.
 
I can vouch for this. We are original owners of our 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0 with CVT, now at nearly 180,000 miles. I serviced the CVT fluid with Valvoline CVT fluid at around 100k miles. Somewhere over 150k the trans starting acting funny and set off all the dashboard lights. I narrowed down that the Subaru dealer repair would be a new valve body. With install and programming, $1500? Then I found the aftermarket supplied individual solenoids that go bad. The valve body is on top of trans sort of under the firewall. Pulled the valve body, diagnosed solenoids, replaced one, can't remember which and kept on truckin'. No dealer, no $200 programming charges. About $100, not even fluid change.

It's had a few hubs/wheel bearings. It uses/burns some oil as many/most of these do. It wasn't bad enough for a recall. It's got some rattles and probably I should be looking at some quit struts by now... but plan is to just run it for another 20k miles or so.
2.0L? Yes, @IndyIan suggested YT for solenoid issues as well, so thank you. Surprisingly, the front strut assemblies and hub bearings were the only good components remaining on the front end.
 
Yesterday, I changed the rear diff fluid and on my way home the CEL illuminated :mad:, worst possible timing as I had an appointment scheduled at the Subaru dealership the next morning (today). A scan revealed P2100 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit/Open. I reset the CEL in the Subaru parking lot this morning and crossed my fingers. I received a call a few hours later that my car was ready for pick up, all done! I'm happy with how this project has turned out so far🤞 . Thanks for all the suggestions and I'll follow up with CEL should it return.
 
After 3k Kms and over 3 months of trouble free ownership so far, I decided to check the fluid levels in the previously installed CVT, and while looking under the hood today, I noticed the upper rad hose was slowly leaking onto the timing cover. The clamp was secure, but I noticed the hose wasn't fully seated, so I backed off the clamp, seated the hose and secured the clamp ☑️. Next, I moved over to the CVT, to check the diff fluid ☑️. Then, while under the vehicle checking my previous work, I noticed the pinch bolt for one of the ball joints I previously replaced, was not fully secured and as I secured it, I cracked the spindle AND snapped the pinch bolt all in one shot, by over tightening it :mad:. I ordered a used one locally. The only silver lining here, the wheel bearing on that side was starting to make noise and was planning to replace it soon. Hopefully, the wreckers don't cut the ABS sensor harness on the replacement spindle. The worst part about all this, I was so careful when I removed those pinch bolts initially, when replacing the ball joints with lots of heat and anti-seize going back in, I even used a torque wrench to prevent braking them. I'm so mad at myself :mad:.
 
I removed the spindle today and carefully separated the ABS sensor; just waiting on the used part now.
 
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The used spindle arrived with a comprimised pinch bolt, and despite my attempt to drill it out, it didn't work out. I ordered another one and this time, the disassembler carefully removed the pinch bolt and ball joint in advance.(y) In order to receive a new ball joint with a pinch bolt included a MOOG was necessary; suprisingly the white box ball joint didn't include it and COO was Turkey. The car is now back on the road after one week and the wheel bearing noise is gone too. ☑️
 
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No issues with this car, other than the A/C doesn't work and the body's rough, but I don't care. Thanks for the tip on the engine oil. @Al .
 
I’ve owned 2 subies and enjoyed both of them. I did not have the bad experiences that get reported. Yes, they have some unique traits and unique needs. Having owned three Volvos, I’ll say the Subarus needed less care than they did, and bitog doesn’t really flame Volvo for being unreliable. They have their quirks, and we know to stay on top of them.

at least in the 2.2, head gaskets looked to be easy to change once the timing belt was off. I never had to do it on the 2.2. The timing belt came off without trouble once the cooling fans were pulled. It just took time to get the layers off the top and front of the engine. I did the TB twice on the 2.2.

agree with one of the early posts above - even my 97 was a solid, rigid body that handled superbly and put up with lots of hard driving.
 
CEL illuminating on a regualar basis after several resets over the last month or so. P2096 POST CATALYST FUEL TRIM SYSTEM TOO LEAN (BANK 1) Finally got around to do some testing and my diagnosis has revealed a faulty upstream O2 sensor; it's an expensive one!
 
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You need to get it running before you put another dollar into it. Thats alot of miles for a Subi boxer. Came back to edit. Just realized you are KMs. So like 160k miles. Still alot of miles for a boxer. Check oil for coolant. They love to smoke head gaskets. Super fun cars to drive though.
There’s a lot of urban myths in your statement. 160k is nothing for an N/A EJ25, I’ve personally had 4 on the far side of that number without issue other than a little oil weeping. The HG issue is largely contained to the ‘98-2000, and much lower incidence after around 2006. The CVT is a concern in the early years and I’ve never had one of those, but hopefully the used unit is in good shape. Rust on undercarriage is a concern especially in northern states, but it appears OP is replacing a majority of components. Use factory reman green CV axles for best luck; aftermarkets are usually a crapshoot.

After those chassis issues are resolved, there’s no reason to expect that if the CVT is serviceable, OP won’t get at least another 100k mi out of it. My mail lady has a ‘96 Legacy wagon for the rural mail route with 460k miles on it (not a typo) and the valve covers have never been off. She’s used Amsoil in it throughout since new.
 
I removed the O2 sensor yesterday and surprisingly, it loosened with not much effort. I will order a new one now that I know the old one didn't put up a fight. I applied some anti-seize to the threads and re-installed it until the new one arrives.
 
I finally replaced the upstream O2 sensor today, as I never make time to work on my own vehicle. I replaced the LF hub assembly too, it was just starting to make noise, most would not hear it. Currently at 276k Kms and thinking I should replace the CVT fluid.
 
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I finally replaced the O2 sensor today, as I never make time to work on my own vehicle. I replaced the LF hub assembly too, it was just starting to make noise, most would not hear it. Currently at 276k Kms and thinking I should replace the CVT fluid.
Probably wouldn't hurt if you don't know when it was last changed. I think the subaru fluid is the best choice still?
 
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