2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5 N/A CVT 266k Kms

[GSCJR]

This is going to be my new DD. I've never owned a Subaru, so I'm looking for some advice and tips. I'm going over it to get it road worthy and so far it needs, ball joints, pads and rotors, tires, LCA bushings and the LF window won't go down. The car has been sitting for two years after the CVT failed. The CVT was replaced with a USED unit however, the car never went back on the road. I've started replacing some of the aforementioned parts and while doing so, I noticed broken engine ground harnesses, which I've started fabricating. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

 

[CharBaby]

I believe those engines still may have had some head gasket issues and also could use some oil due to the boxer design.
Subies are a nice driving, very tightly constructed vehicle. Many that I've driven felt like bank vaults on wheels. Our friends/family who have owned them, loved them. It's hard to answer for any 10 yr ol' vehicle as it is all about condition.

South Main Auto may have some Subie repair videos, mainly about suspension parts IIRC. Remember, YouTube is your friend.

Since the CVT had been replaced, I'm not sure if the CVT needs reprogramming but it may need to be. Could be a nice project and a decent DD. Any pics?

Best of luck,

CB

 

[Al]

Hope it was free...this from a subaru fanboy

 

[GSCJR]

I believe those engines still may have had some head gasket issues and also could use some oil due to the boxer design.
Subies are a nice driving, very tightly constructed vehicle. Many that I've driven felt like bank vaults on wheels. Our friends/family who have owned them, loved them. It's hard to answer for any 10 yr ol' vehicle as it is all about condition.

South Main Auto may have some Subie repair videos, mainly about suspension parts IIRC. Remember, YouTube is your friend.

Since the CVT had been replaced, I'm not sure if the CVT needs reprogramming but it may need to be. Could be a nice project and a decent DD. Any pics?

Best of luck,

CB

Hey CB, hope all is well. It does feel like a heavy/solid car but it's not tracking correctly and noisy due to the front end needing work. While replacing the cupped tires yesterday, I noticed the LF wheel also needs replacing, it's severely warped. I'm almost done repairing the LF corner and I'm also replacing the stabilizer links, since it was safer to undo those than the bushing brackets due to all the rust. Thanks for suggesting the SMA videos; I'll take a look. I'll post up some pictures when it's all cleaned up.

 

[GSCJR]

Hope it was free...this from a subaru fanboy

I paid $2000 for it and I budgeted an additional $1000 in parts/repairs.

 

[CharBaby]

Here is a guideline(just a guideline) for the CVT although this may not be exact to your year vehicle. However, it causes some pause when checking the CVT & Front Diff. as far as draining & filling these units. Always remove the fill plugs first. If you drain the units and can't get the fill plug out...OOPS!
I know you knew that.

This is for CVT Fluid & Gear Oil:

 

[14Accent]

The Subaru CVT is.... finicky. To say the least. Is it the worst CVT ever made? Not at all. Is it something I'd recommend? Not a chance.

The early models had a LOT more issues than the later ones, as is common. Early units suffered from poor cooling and filtration leading to failure, while many of the later ones eat TCC solenoids which required valve body replacement. It sounds like you went into this knowing some work would be required, which is good. After you rectify the main mechanicals I would strongly consider having the TCM flashed with the newest software available from Subaru. That will go a long way towards keeping things running smoothly. Oh, and change the fluid with OE stuff RIGHT NOW!

 

[Imadentguy]

You need to get it running before you put another dollar into it. Thats alot of miles for a Subi boxer. Came back to edit. Just realized you are KMs. So like 160k miles. Still alot of miles for a boxer. Check oil for coolant. They love to smoke head gaskets. Super fun cars to drive though.

 

[GSCJR]

The Subaru CVT is.... finicky. To say the least. Is it the worst CVT ever made? Not at all. Is it something I'd recommend? Not a chance.

The early models had a LOT more issues than the later ones, as is common. Early units suffered from poor cooling and filtration leading to failure, while many of the later ones eat TCC solenoids which required valve body replacement. It sounds like you went into this knowing some work would be required, which is good. After you rectify the main mechanicals I would strongly consider having the TCM flashed with the newest software available from Subaru. That will go a long way towards keeping things running smoothly. Oh, and change the fluid with OE stuff RIGHT NOW!

Thanks for all the tips. I spoke with the local Subaru service department today regarding the oustanding campaigns on this car; SRS and wiper motor. I will get them to flash the TCM while it's there for those, thanks for the heads up.

 

[GSCJR]

You need to get it running before you put another dollar into it. Thats alot of miles for a Subi boxer. Came back to edit. Just realized you are KMs. So like 160k miles. Still alot of miles for a boxer. Check oil for coolant. They love to smoke head gaskets. Super fun cars to drive though.

The car runs and I checked all the fluids prior to commiting to the price; thanks for the tip though.

 

[super20dan]

good luck -your going to need it on a subaru

 

[GSCJR]

I finished working on the front end today. Over the last several days, I've replaced the LF wheel and all four tires, ball joint and stabilizer bar link. On the right side I replaced the stabilizer bar link, control arm assembly and then set the the toe visually. I also finshed fabricating and installing two engine ground harnesseses and repaired the LF power window. I cleaned the interior, organized the trunk/jack/spare and shampooed the floor mats too. Tomorrow I'll clean the glass and take it for a spin. It was scary going well below the speed limit on the highway before I even started the repairs; noisy and shook like mad!

 

[GSCJR]

Cleaned the glass today and took it for a spin, what a difference! On the highway, it was smooth and tracked nice and straight! I did notice a noisy heat shield while driving, which I secured but there's a small yet noticeable intermittent knock at low speeds, it could be the sway bar bushings or strut mounts, but the front end is nice and tight now, no free play anywhere. Despite some surface rust from sitting, there was no pulsation from the rotors either and the electronic parking brake works too. Oil recommendations for this engine are all over the place, including grades and whether or not synthetic is required, so tomorrow it will get a Frankenbrew oil change.

 

[IndyIan]

Good for you to revive this car. There's a few videos on youtube about just replacing the individual failed solenoids in the valve body which can save lots of money if that's an issue in the future.

 

[JTK]

Sounds like you did really well considering the cost of well used vehicles these days.

I leased a 2012 Legacy 2.5i CVT premium package. Not a bad car for the 40K miles I owned it. I couldn't imagine it after 10 rust belt winters though.. Mine was starting to rust/bubble in areas around the trunk pinch weld.

Like you say, lots of crazy heat shields on them that will rot off.

 

[GSCJR]

I performed an oil change and installed a missing exhaust hanger (genuine Subaru) at the rear of the transmission on Friday. I drove it this weekend and it felt good; the 260k kms still scares me though. I noticed the front parking lights and RR brake light were out so I replaced those today.

I also had to replace the zerk fittings on the new stabilizer links I bought from RA. They just would not accept any grease; they do now. First and last time I buy links with zerks.

 

[GSCJR]

Well, I stopped for fuel on the way home tonight for the first time on the Subaru and immediately after, the CHECK ENGINE, TRACTION and BRAKE! icons illuminated. The CRUISE light's flashing too. I assume the CHECK ENGINE light disables the other systems so tomorrow I'll scan it. Front rotors have also started to pulsate which I expected after it sat for two years so it was already part of the budget, which is still only at 16%.

And so it begins....

 

[IndyIan]

Well good luck, hopefully nothing major, just a ground or frayed wire?

 

[GSCJR]

Well good luck, hopefully nothing major, just a ground or frayed wire?

A scan revealed P2096 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1. The fuel in the tank is two years old and I could smell it, so I'm hoping with the fresh fuel and the reset it's okay, time will tell; the engine runs just fine.

I resurfaced the rear rotors because they looked worse than the fronts. The rotors look like they were replaced just before the car was parked because the pads also have no wear on them. I also serviced the hubs and parking brake shoes at the same time. I'll do the fronts tomorrow.

 

[GSCJR]

I resurfaced the front rotors today and sent it in for an inspection; PASS! Here are some pics of my new DD: