2011 Honda Fit : U.O.A. of factory oil ?

[odie]

Likely to change the factory oil and oil filter this weekend . We're considering getting an oil analysis done through Blackstone to see how it's breaking in . Will replace it with HONDA full synthetic 0w-20 (SN) and the HONDA ( Filtech ) 15400-PLM-A01 oil filter . The oil life display just went to 40% with about 7,100 miles and should have near 7,300 by the end of the week.

for Yes .

for No . Place your vote .

 

[spasm3]

thats no on the analysis yes on changing it.
copper will be high along with iron its breaking in, info will not be useful.

 

[HTSS_TR]

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
copper will be high along with iron its breaking in, info will not be useful.


I agree with that part for sure. I'd be curious as to TBN and viscosity at the end of the OCI, but if Honda uses some special fill (i.e. not the 0w-20 SN he's putting back in), then it won't be terribly useful data, either.

 

[Quest]

IMHO the UOA on the first factory drain is totally meaningless: high wear metal, high silicon (RTV), high copper/lead, high pretty much most of the things including but not limited to Fe readings.

Q.

 

[chubbs1]

I'll add to Q's remark and say it is pretty useless to do a UOA in at least the first 3-4 OCI's. Especially if you are following the MM. If you do some flushing (short OCI's) maybe but I would not waste your hard earned money. Just let it break in for a while and do an analysis.

Note: If you think there may be a problem at any point such as heavy gasoline reeking oil or significant loss of coolant etc. By all means do a UOA or ask for a sample at the dealership.

 

[zanzabar]

+1

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...405#Post1721405

Here's two UOAs on factory fill on Fits with very consistent results. I think it's safe to assume yours will look very similar.

 

[OldCowboy]

+2

Absolutely no reason to do a UOA on a new car prior to 20,000 miles.

 

[Hounds]

Originally Posted By: odie
Likely to change the [Honda] factory oil and oil filter this weekend. . . . Will replace it with HONDA full synthetic 0w-20 (SN) . . .

JFI, if the "Genuine Honda" 0W-20 SN full synthetic you plan to buy ends in part# 9037, it's bottled for Honda by ConocoPhillips (nothing wrong with that) and virtually identical to Ford's Motorcraft (also bottled by COP) if you'd care to save a few $.

Also, FWIW, were it my Fit, I'd run the FF down to 20% on the MM.

 

[odie]

" JFI, if the "Genuine Honda" 0W-20 SN full synthetic you plan to buy ends in part# 9037, it's bottled for Honda by ConocoPhillips (nothing wrong with that) and virtually identical to Ford's Motorcraft (also bottled by COP) if you'd care to save a few $. "

Bought the oil and filter at HONDA service department few months ago . Thanks for your input .

 

[odie]

The panel has passed the verdict of nay . So , pass it is .

 

[Patman]

No UOA is meaningless, IMO. It's always good to get data, even if the factory fill is going to have a lot more wear metals and silicon than subsequent intervals. It's just nice to get that initial snapshot of the engine, and to watch how things trend downwards. It also allows you to get a good idea of when the engine has fully broken in, as then you can see the wear metals settle down into a nice trend.

 

[odie]

Too late for it . Will likely get an U.O.A. done when it goes a little over 14,000 which should be late June / early July .

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Patman
No UOA is meaningless, IMO. It's always good to get data, even if the factory fill is going to have a lot more wear metals and silicon than subsequent intervals. It's just nice to get that initial snapshot of the engine, and to watch how things trend downwards. It also allows you to get a good idea of when the engine has fully broken in, as then you can see the wear metals settle down into a nice trend.