2010 Honda Accord V-6

[Pete591]

My one year old vehicle was routinely "using" one quart/2,000 miles from day one.

It did this with factory fill and conventional as well. I tried Penzoil Platinum and the same.

Recently I decided to give Royal Purple 5W-20 a go ( i noted it is an SL oil and I liked the boost in additives).

Well after 3,000 miles the oil level is exactly where it was at after the oil change. It has not budged and it not "using".

I think that it's the PAO base and properties of it vs. GRP.III and conventional that are giving me the performance I was hoping for. I am sure any PAO or Ester oil would be fine regardless of brand.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Many engines will use oil at first. It may simply be that your engine has quit using oil, regardless of the brand or oil type.

 

[HTSS_TR]

If you're happy and don't mind paying premium for Royal Purple, then it is okay.

As Hokiefyd said, some engines use some oil the first 10-20k miles then taper off regardless of oil type. The only way to find out is try another brand the next oil change to see if oil consumption is really stop or not.

 

[tinmanSC]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Many engines will use oil at first. It may simply be that your engine has quit using oil, regardless of the brand or oil type.

+1
Probably had little to do with the oil. To confirm this you can switch back to a group II and see what happens. I would be surprised if the oil consumption continued.

 

[ottotheclown]

As i always say what was it doing before??? What is it doing now? For me 100% of the time it is what I did that made the change. Very good policy never fails. Stay with the change unless you have extra money or time.

 

[Eddie]

Very unusual for most modern engines to use a Q/2k Miles. I suspect, that the rings we,re not seated. I would try some WOT runs in 5-10 second bursts allowing a couple minutes cool down between runs. I agree with others that the oil is not the problem here.

 

[R2d2]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
Very unusual for most modern engines to use a Q/2k Miles. I suspect, that the rings we,re not seated. I would try some WOT runs in 5-10 second bursts allowing a couple minutes cool down between runs. I agree with others that the oil is not the problem here.


I agree, proper break in is important, I doubt the oil has anything to do with it.

 

[Boss302fan]

Originally Posted By: R2d2
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Very unusual for most modern engines to use a Q/2k Miles. I suspect, that the rings we,re not seated. I would try some WOT runs in 5-10 second bursts allowing a couple minutes cool down between runs. I agree with others that the oil is not the problem here.


I agree, proper break in is important, I doubt the oil has anything to do with it.


I agree with the above.. Go to the dealer and get it on record as burning oil. Honda has had issues with some V6 blocks, so keep an eye on it. Any odd sounds from the engine? Slight knocking?

 

[Danh]

As 2010 Hondas specify SM, you may be jeopardizing your warranty by using an SL, no matter its effect on oil consumption or other theoretical benefits.

 

[Artem]

Weird. Switching back and forth to experiment and see if its the oil that's causing the consumption or not would be interesting to see but will take some time and multiple back to back runs to note the difference.

 

[2K2AcuraTL]

Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Originally Posted By: R2d2
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Very unusual for most modern engines to use a Q/2k Miles. I suspect, that the rings we,re not seated. I would try some WOT runs in 5-10 second bursts allowing a couple minutes cool down between runs. I agree with others that the oil is not the problem here.


I agree, proper break in is important, I doubt the oil has anything to do with it.


I agree with the above.. Go to the dealer and get it on record as burning oil. Honda has had issues with some V6 blocks, so keep an eye on it. Any odd sounds from the engine? Slight knocking?


+3.. on proper break in and going to Honda and staring the paper trail if the oil consumption doesn't subside.
J

 

[2K2AcuraTL]

Originally Posted By: Danh
As 2010 Hondas specify SM, you may be jeopardizing your warranty by using an SL, no matter its effect on oil consumption or other theoretical benefits.


I hate to contradict you, however I sincerely doubt that that a dealer(Honda) can prove / revoke a warranty based on an API oil classification. If you can prove/document proper OCI, then you have kept your end of the deal.
You can easily find any SL ,SM, SN oil, and maybe some SJ on any retailers shelf at any given moment.
BITOG'ers will know the difference, but the general public/car owner most likely doesn't...

 

[Danh]

You may be right.

However, as all 5W20 Royal Purple is SL rated (I think), it's not too big a stretch to think that Honda could review oil change documentation, notice this and deny warranty coverage. I don't think the SM spec is Honda's suggestion, it's their requirement.

Plus, with so many good oil choices out there, why run a "worse" spec than the manufacturer requires? In any event, why take the chance?

 

[moto94536]

hi. My 2010 Honda Pilot used 3/4 quart with the factory filled. I guess it is a good break in.

after 1st oil change, it didn't lost any oil. I always monitor my oil level. I am usinggg castrol syn blend.

 

[dan3952]

How many miles were on it during the period when you were burning oil? Mine is old enough that it will burn just about anything and I won't pay for a premium oil anymore.

 

[Pete591]

Bought the car new a year ago and now has 12,500 miles on it. Every 2,000 miles since new it has required topping off with about a quart of oil. NO matter what I used conventional/Grp. III Synthetic oils etc. It remained consistent.

I spoke to the dealer service manager and with Honda headquarters zone management. They have determined that in the Honda V-6 I-V-tec with VCM (variable cylinder management...3/4/6 depending on load)they deem up to one quart/1,000 miles of consumption to be "normal". Has something to do with expansion and contraction of metals and rings when cylinders turn off and back on. It really stresses the daylights out of the oil and causes profound shearing and volatility issues are common. Some "blow-by too".

Nothing solved my dilemma until I decided to try Royal Purple 5W-20 with a Honda Oil filter which I had been using. (note I had been changing the oil and filter every 5,000 miles).

The engine (for the first time since I got the car) has not used a drop and we are now out to 2,000 on RP. My hope is that my problem may have been solved solved and the characteristics of the base stock of Grp. IV oil is why. I am going to monitor this further out and I have no regrets in making the decision. RP may be helping in some way to get me better seals around the rings?

 

[Indydriver]

Watching with interest as I just helped my daughter buy a 2011. It seems to me that these Variable Cylinder Management schemes are fraught with potential reliability issues. I wonder if they can program the computer to turn the darn thing off.

Just curious, have you ever run it really hard?

 

[tig1]

Has nothing to do with what oil you use in the spec wt.

 

[moto94536]

It is hard to conclude that VCM eat oil.. When did you change your factory fill oil? do u drive with High RPM?

If I were you, I will use dino oil, such as chevron supreme, castrol gtx, Honda OEM oil, MotorCraft ( make by conocoPhilip).

 

[Pete591]

You know guys I will keep you appraised of my decision to go with RP 5W-20 PAO based oil.

Yes...trust me...the rings are seated.

RP seems to be the magic bullet here. I will keep this updated.

It in my mind is simply a case where "fact is stranger than fiction".

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