Finally found Royal Purple, now... to switch or not to switch?

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Jun 8, 2002
Elizabethtown, Pa
With PAO oils like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple. There is no reason to wait (IMHO). I have started well under 1000 miles with a number of cars with no problems. Same deal with the drive train. But here you can change to Redline-which is an Ester any time.
Started running synthetics in my truck and wife's car(both 03's) at 1500 miles..... truck 1500 miles...M1 3000 miles...M1 6000 miles...M1 10000 miles..Royal purple car....same as above both going to 6k changes. [Coffee]
Originally posted by williar: I'd wait at least 5K for the first oil change; by changing early you're not buying anything and are just delaying the breakin preocess. At 5K miles I'd change to a good synthetic - not RP, IMHO.
One of the best (if not the best) UOA posted here on a wrx, was with RP.
cross post with gearhead... *whew* That's a relief! I have been doing a lot of reading, and while I an still a super-noob, I was under the impression that RP was good stuff!
RP is a good synthetic, as are the rest of the oils that you mentioned. There are excellent, and mediocre UOA's posted with all those oils. RP, tends to show an unusual amount of shear for a synthetic, but it doesn't seem to affect wear rates. Certain engines, will like certain oils better than others. Do a search on wrx uoa's.
I looked up the RP tech data sheets a few months ago. While I don't doubt it is very good oil, I was dissapointed in the flash point on the 10w40. What gives?
The specs posted on RP's website, are for the SJ rated 10w40. I don't know if it has been reformulated at all, or the website has not been updated in a while. [I dont know]
1500 miles on my '04 WRX. I've heard that 'rus need a slightly longer "break-in" period. I've heard that 1000 miles is plenty. I've heard don't go to synthetic until 10k. I've also heard 5k and I've heard right away. I'm leaning toward going with a premium dino for a short change now, and then going synthetic (and also in the manual tranny and rear diff) at 5k miles. Give me some insight, oil gurus!!! [bowdown]
Good point. It is a lot higher for the 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30, which are all SL, than for the three higher viscosity oils, which are all SJ, unless the latter three were measured by the PMCC method which gives a lower flash point than the COC method.
Personally, I would like to know more about Synerlec, which they tout as being an additive the rest of the tribologic world missed? Hmmm....when I called them a few years ago, I got a lot of "it's proprietary". I also know that for a while they touted all their products as synthetic, while only some of them were - you had to dig on the website to figure out what was and what wasn't. That has been corrected when last I checked. I have been using LE 8130 10w30 Monolec oil with great results, and as soon as my S2000 beds in those carbon fiber cylinder inserts, that is likely what I will use. I use their LE 607 90w gear oil. Was impressed with the history of the company (founded in 1951) and got lots of good info when I contacted them. UOA on one car is a bit of a small sample to make much of anything from - so while a WRX using RP showed a good one might just as much be a testament to Subaru's machining than anything else. In a high heat (WRX) or high rev (S2000) engine, I would be a bit nervous if oil sheared - it would suggest a lot of VI improver. Does RP formulate on the low side of API vis specs, and get those great dyno numbers you see on TV, but then need to thicken it with the polymers? Fair question, no? Mobil 1 certainly formulates on the low side. I also have used Amsoil's 0w30 in my SC'd SVT Cobra, and have used Red Line since it first came out in the 1980's.
RR at last somebody using Lubrication Engineers oils on this forum. Probably the best dino you can buy. I'd use it in my Outback but it's very expensive here. I live in the ACT (Australian Capital Territory) and know that the ACT Fire Brigade use it in everything they have.
Originally posted by sprintman: RR at last somebody using Lubrication Engineers oils on this forum. Probably the best dino you can buy. I'd use it in my Outback but it's very expensive here. I live in the ACT (Australian Capital Territory) and know that the ACT Fire Brigade use it in everything they have.
I would think that many here would be using it. I am a former trbologist, who strayed and became an IT Director of R&D. I also race and restore old Corvettes, and recently bought a Honda S2000 with that sewing machine RPM capability. I have access to the spectrometers, gas chromatographs, and scanning electron microscopes, so it allows me to dabble in lube research a bit, including looking at wear particles/asperties with great precision. I found LE while looking for a 90w gear oil. That is what Honda recommends, which is unusual in this day and age. The S2000 uses a shotpeened version of the Miata ring and pinion, so I wanted better shock loading. Anyway, I had all but given up on finding a quality 90w with some decent low temp capability, and found LE from a former tribologist associate. They make a product called LE 607, which is petro based, but either very highly refined or with some PPD, because its pour point is -11degF, which is very low for a 90w (Schaeffer's is +5degF in 90w). I ran some tests, and found it had much higher EP load tolerance than any 75w or 80w90, including my RedLine and Amsoil synlubes. 3-4x! So I also started looking at 8130 and 8530 (5w30) engine oils. 8130 has high phos, and is SH-rated as a result. 8330 is SL-rated. They demonstrated outstanding anti-wear performance in our etsting, and a high resistance to oxidation and shear, surprising for "only a synblend. Goes to show what careful refining and additive magic can do!
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