2003 audi a4 1.8

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Whats a good oil n filter for this car. Also the engine seems a little dirty looking in the oil cap area so im thinking it is sludged up a bit. What is a good interval to try and clean this engine up.
 
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
Whats a good oil n filter for this car. Also the engine seems a little dirty looking in the oil cap area so im thinking it is sludged up a bit. What is a good interval to try and clean this engine up.

When I had Passat 1.8T oil I felt most comfortable with was Castrol 0W30 (GC). Filter either OEM or Mann or Mahle.
 
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The largest oil filter you can find - Mann and other manufacturers make them . For oil any VW spec 502.0 oil I use Mobil 1 0W-40 year around .

Take a look at Audiworld and ClubB5 sites for much more information .
 
i have two 1.8t cars. one is fed with GC 0w-30 and other with Total Energy 9000 0w-30. Change oil every two years or 9k miles.
 
Reviewing my records, the most common oil and filter for my '03 Passat 1.8T was Syntec 5w-40 combined with the Purolator L30257 filter. I traded the car with about 104,000 miles, running strong, and averaged about 5,000 miles per oil change. Another good filter would be the Mobil 1 M301.
 
I had two 1.8T cars (2004 A4 and a 2000 Jetta) and put about 250K miles on them between the two, all with a performance chip.

GC 0W-30 worked the best (fuel mileage, engine noise and consumption) and M1 0W-40 was OK as well. OEM filter, 5K mile OCI.
 
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Originally Posted By: dbrowne1
I had two 1.8T cars (2004 A4 and a 2000 Jetta) and put about 250K miles on them between the two, all with a performance chip.

GC 0W-30 worked the best (fuel mileage, engine noise and consumption) and M1 0W-40 was OK as well. OEM filter, 5K mile OCI.

Yeah, in that engine GC i definitely best choice.
 
I got MANN filters from Rockauto for about $5 a piece including shipping however I did order a case of 10.

As for Oil, use a 502.00/505.00 oil to play it safe. Most common and easy to get is M1 0W-40. I use Amsoil Mid SAPS 5W-40 but will be switching to the new High SAPS 5W-40 to give it a try soon. It is ~ $2.00/qt cheaper. I have used M1, Total 0W-30 (discontinued) and Shell T6 and all seemed to be ok. No noticeable change in engine noise or mileage. I did not do an UOA. I bought the car with 125k miles. The only thing I did oil wise was an engine flush when I first got it. I have 160k miles now.
 
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yeah I was thinking about giving her car the flush treatment but a lot of people hear been saying to do a few early oci and that should take care of the sludging issue.
 
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
yeah I was thinking about giving her car the flush treatment but a lot of people hear been saying to do a few early oci and that should take care of the sludging issue.



Depends on the severity of the deposits. I don't think short intervals clean anything better than running the oil to its recommended mileage.
To actually clean deposits I use either mmo or seafoam in the oil for a 3000 mile interval. Twice if its really bad.
Then I use a quality synthetic for the rest of my ownership.
I've had many vehicles that when I acquired them the valvetrain was hidden under muck and I couldn't see the springs but a couple runs of mmo or seafoam and I could see the parts moving again.
I've used those idle flushes too on neglected engines before and had them run past 300k without any issues.
Just my experience.
When used as directed no harm can be done.
 
Originally Posted By: Wheel366
I got MANN filters from Rockauto for about $5 a piece including shipping however I did order a case of 10.

As for Oil, use a 502.00/505.00 oil to play it safe. Most common and easy to get is M1 0W-40. I use Amsoil Mid SAPS 5W-40 but will be switching to the new High SAPS 5W-40 to give it a try soon. It is ~ $2.00/qt cheaper. I have used M1, Total 0W-30 (discontinued) and Shell T6 and all seemed to be ok. No noticeable change in engine noise or mileage. I did not do an UOA. I bought the car with 125k miles. The only thing I did oil wise was an engine flush when I first got it. I have 160k miles now.


For that engine Mid-SAPS is not necessary.
GC works best if you ask me if car is not consuming any oil.
When I was living with my roomate, she had 1.8T 2001. I put in GC, it burned a qt in 1k. I put T6 and burned maybe 1-2qt in 5K.
T6 is one of the good oils, but I would use GC if everything is OK with engine.
 
Never been a big Audi guy, but all of my "car friends" are big into VW/Audi leaving me as the sole BMW/Porsche guy. I really just am not a fan of AWD, even when implemented as well as Audi does (considering the price).

That said, I have a lot of second-hand experience with the 1.8T, 2.0T, and 2.7T motors in particular.
The 1.8T is notorious for sludge buildup IME, and I have more than one friend who thought their motor was in great shape only to up the boost and have oiling issues grenade the turbo('s).

Since I have had such great results with Redline, on and off the track, not only for wear reduction but for cleanliness, I have recommended it to 3 of my friends who have Audi's. A B5 S4, B5 A4, and a B6 A4.

Every one of them showed significant improvements in cleanliness of the valvetrain and combustion chambers after 2-3x mid length OCI's (changing filter 2x each).

I would highly recommend trying it, as with a turbocharged engine like the 1.8/2.0, buildup or poor oil temp control (especially hot spotting) is one of the biggest reasons for the cars' notorious "regular maintenance turbo replacement".
 
my Dad has 1.8t with over 200k and no sludge. Problem was people using cheap oil for oil and not not changing it. I know that some people lease cars and don't bother with changing oil since they will get new car in two years.
 
GC! Or maybe T6, but all I ran in my 2000 1.8T Jetta was GC. The longitudinal 1.8T's have a greatly reduced oil capacity versus their transverse brethern... Get a big filter, used to use a HUGE Napa Gold can for it. Forget the number right now. GC made a real difference in the perceived NVH & -30C cold starts (no block heater!). USed to use the green GC. Can still smell it...

John.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: Wheel366
I got MANN filters from Rockauto for about $5 a piece including shipping however I did order a case of 10.

As for Oil, use a 502.00/505.00 oil to play it safe. Most common and easy to get is M1 0W-40. I use Amsoil Mid SAPS 5W-40 but will be switching to the new High SAPS 5W-40 to give it a try soon. It is ~ $2.00/qt cheaper. I have used M1, Total 0W-30 (discontinued) and Shell T6 and all seemed to be ok. No noticeable change in engine noise or mileage. I did not do an UOA. I bought the car with 125k miles. The only thing I did oil wise was an engine flush when I first got it. I have 160k miles now.



For that engine Mid-SAPS is not necessary.
GC works best if you ask me if car is not consuming any oil.
When I was living with my roomate, she had 1.8T 2001. I put in GC, it burned a qt in 1k. I put T6 and burned maybe 1-2qt in 5K.
T6 is one of the good oils, but I would use GC if everything is OK with engine.


Yeah, I know but at the time the only oil that Amsoil recommended and had available for that car was the AFL which was Mid SAPS. Now that they have the full SAPS I am going to try that. I am a preferred customer so I get 20 - 25% off. I used it once in both my S4 and A4. Had no issues that I know of however with the S I'm lucky if I put 1000 miles before I change the oil that is how infrequently I change the oil. GC isn't easy to come buy unless I run around looking for it here. With Amsoil, I can go online, place my order and go.
 
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Originally Posted By: a2gtinut
my Dad has 1.8t with over 200k and no sludge. Problem was people using cheap oil for oil and not not changing it. I know that some people lease cars and don't bother with changing oil since they will get new car in two years.


That was part of the problem but also Audi recommended a 10k mile oil change with a really small filter. They later changed to a filter that was at least twice as big and a 5k oil change.
 
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