Redhawk454
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- Dec 30, 2022
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the service department at the roo dealer i bought the subie from told me they only use 0w-20 because 0w-16 is hard to source
0w20 is a good oil it’s been proven by many of miles. Look at pennzoil ultra platinum, castrol edge and Mobil 1 ep. Those are stout oils.
A 0w-30 will provide increased MOFT, while still allowing for good flow to the oil pump intake and sufficient cranking speed in extremely cold weather.yes, I did answer my own question kindof but i'm paranoid that a thicker oil like 0w-30 might be counter productive
Have you sent out an oil sample? If it’s working for you maybe no need to change. Are you at least signed up for amsoil customer perks. I won’t dis amsoil it’s just not for me.I have amsoil 0w-20 in it at the moment because it has a lot of Boron in it.
After 6 Subarus, I’d recommend the 3-letter-abbreviation board sponsor. I switched my mom’s ‘18 Forester over to the PCMO 5w20 over a year ago and it’s been flawless. For your car, this or the Premium Plus would fit your needs.what is the recommended oil for turbocharged roo's?
After 6 Subarus, I’d recommend the 3-letter-abbreviation board sponsor. I switched my mom’s ‘18 Forester over to the PCMO 5w20 over a year ago and it’s been flawless. For your car, this or the Premium Plus would fit your needs.
These oils are far better than your engine “needs”, and unfortunately does not carry the actual API starburst so if there was a warranty issue, there “could” be a problem. However with the protection offered, I personally would roll the dice here but obviously I’m not in charge of your wallet (or risks).
For shelf-stock availability and no worries, pick Mobil 1 EP in whatever grade you’d like. It’s probably the overall best available shelf stock for your concerns.
I would go with Amsoil 0W-30.I have amsoil 0w-20 in it at the moment because it has a lot of Boron in it.
Amsoil doesn’t recommend that, how come you are?I would go with Amsoil 0W-30.
Fair point and good question.Amsoil doesn’t recommend that, how come you are?
Dealer goes by bulk supplier pricing not necessarily what manufacturer suggests. 0w20 is also within spec of the manufacturer therefore the dealer end is covered.Fair point and good question.
The viscosities are not severely different, but I think an oil in the 9-10cSt range at 100°C will protect much better when the engine oil contact temps are 150°C and above. Especially near the rings. I mean some folks say 5W-40. I won't go that far.
All our cars are recommend 0W-20, I only run 0W-30.
As for Amsoil Corporate - they go by the book. They have to. And I do to for the first 3-4 oil changes.
I find it ironic the dealer does 0W-20 instead of 0W-16.
What difference is within the 1st, 3-4 changes?And I do to for the first 3-4 oil changes.
No real physical difference if that is what you are asking. Just assuring the engine is past any potential extremely rare infant mortality period. The bathtub curve.What difference is within the 1st, 3-4 changes?
Never knew of this terminologyNo real physical difference if that is what you are asking. Just assuring the engine is past any potential extremely rare infant mortality period. The bathtub curve.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve
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What Engine? FB2.0 ? the FB2.0 historically does quite well on 20 grade.I know its been talked about a lot but my new 2024 crosstrek calls for 0w-16 or a in a pinch 0w-20. I changed the factory oil out at 1,300 miles and put in 0w-20.
I Know the recommendation for thinner oils in owners manuals is usually CAFE related and I want to to put 0w-30 in but ive been told subarus do better with thinner oil because of subarus timing chains.
I know the turbocharged subarus recommend 5w-30 and I cant imagine any tighter clearances between the 4 cylinder NA engines and the turbocharged 6 cylinder engines. But I dont know. The car is under warranty. A technician at the dealership said 0w-30 is fine.
Would it be wise to switch to 0w-30? my concern is the effect of thicker oil on the timing chains.
Because the vehicle sees about 90% city, sub-20 mile trips. The oil probably only gets above 200* a handful of times per year (so it’s still on the thick end of a 20 grade). Since it’s not a diluter (UOAs at 6k still had flashpoints above 400*) and since I know the HPL will thicken some with use, I figure it’s enough for her. If this saw regular highway use, I may step up to a 30. Or I may just stick the 10w20 in it!Just curious, why wouldn’t you run 30 weight?
No. You need to forget that baseless fear.yes, I did answer my own question kindof but i'm paranoid that a thicker oil like 0w-30 might be counter productive
The viscosity difference quite smallNo. You need to forget that baseless fear.
°F = American ?My 0w20 has hit 228 degrees American at 9,000’ elevation