Lug nut wont come off, highly deformed.

phenomic · Dec 17, 2004

I had one of those lock lugnuts that someone put on really tight either at school or while i was getting an alignment. Well, i really need to get this thing off so i can flush my brakes and do a tire rotation. It was already rounded out a little so i always left it loose on purpose just so my lug nut cover would stay on. Well i couldnt get it off after and my impact wrench rounded through it like butter and made it a perfect circle. I tried everything to get the thing off from liquid wrench spray, hammer + vice grips, hammer + chisel, hammering a socket onto it etc, I also tried using my propane torch with no luck.

I had my dad help me and it doesnt look anything remotely like a lugnut. Its smashed and theres no way to get any kind of socket on it now. What else can i do? I am thinking about cutting it off with my dremel. My question is, can i cut the threads off and replace them or is that hard? Also, would dremeling a few nothches into it and then chiseling it help at all?

dkcase · Dec 17, 2004

There are sockets with teeth intended to grab it -- like an E-Z-Out for external use. Possibly access would be a problem.

Can you attach a nut to it to grab on to with JBWeld ? Don't get it onto the threads of the studs.

medic · Dec 17, 2004

I would cut it off. Use a torch if you have a steel wheel that you aren't worried about marking up. If you have a nice wheel, other cutting options will be needed. Don't worry about messing up the threads. The stud can usually be replaced easily and pretty cheap - even one from the dealer won't go for more than $10.

XS650 · Dec 17, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by dkcase:
There are sockets with teeth intended to grab it -- like an E-Z-Out for external use. Possibly access would be a problem.

Some shops have them. I had to get all 4 lock nuts taken off a used car I bought because the special keyed socket didn't come with the car.

The xternal ezout type thingie is made with fairly thin walls so it will work with most alloy wheels.

phenomic · Dec 17, 2004

I got nice chrome wheels so torching is limited like you said, and they are indented so it is hard to get tools in it. So i guess i should go with the cut the whole lug nut off and possibly the threads. Does anyone know how much the special sockets cost and if autzone/murrays would have em?

XS650 · Dec 17, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by phenomic:
I got nice chrome wheels so torching is limited like you said, and they are indented so it is hard to get tools in it. So i guess i should go with the cut the whole lug nut off and possibly the threads. Does anyone know how much the special sockets cost and if autzone/murrays would have em?

When I looked they were hard to find. I finally called around and found a tire shop that had them and had the tires shop take the nuts off.

sub_zero · Dec 17, 2004

You could also use your dremel to weaken the nut and then just knock it off with a hammer and chisel.

Have you tried welding a socket to it?

I have no confidence in gimmicky E-Z out type affairs, they never seem to work when you have a heavy job to do.

There are three types of wrenches the right one, the wrong one and the heat wrench.

drive it forever · Dec 17, 2004

I would just go to a tire shop. Most of them probabaly have the tool for this job because this is a common thing for them. You might get lucky and get it done for free, or $5 or $10.

michaelc80 · Dec 17, 2004

If you can get it into the recess for the lug nut, you might try the dremel tool route. I had to cut a lug nut on an old Dodge once. No amount of PB Blaster, torching, etc would budge it. I worked on it with a dremel tool and got it off in about 15 minutes.

westex39 · Dec 17, 2004

I think Sears Craftsman has a tool for what you describe. It looks like a regular socket but has special teeth inside to grab on to the stripped nut or bolt.

westex

Chris142 · Dec 17, 2004

Pep boys has the special sockets to grab rounded lug nuts. They have a very agressive tooth pattern and look like they should work.

Look in the Lisle section of the tool dept.

JohnBrowning · Dec 18, 2004

Snap-On makes a kit just for this. It has deep fluted sockets that taper. You hammer the socket over the rounded nut and then drive it off. You have to wobble them some times.

Craftsman has a knock-off of these but they are preety shallow and open on the back. I have the craftsman model. I bought mine on sale and got the special discount for like $28 but I think htey list for $38. By makeing them shallow you can use them on longer bolts and but a wrench on the end of it or you can turn it with a socket if the bolts length allows it.

clutcher · Dec 18, 2004

On wheels with recessed lug nuts I do use the Snap On tool and it works great. But when I can’t find it I go to plan B, and that is a deep 12 point Craftsman socket, half inch drive and pound it on the stripped nut as best you can and that should work.
For plan C, with all the lug nuts removed except for the bad one place a pry bar on the back side of the wheel and try to get it between the brake rotor and wiggle it a bit. Sometimes that helps break the torque of the nut and then go back to Plan B. Lower the vehicle so it has enough weight on it and try to turn the nut manually. Believe me we’ve been up a creek with this many times.

[ December 18, 2004, 10:36 PM: Message edited by: clutcher ]

labman · Dec 18, 2004

Maybe the next step is to check the other 3 wheels. If you have 4 of a kind, maybe you should ante up for one of the special tools. Otherwise, I sort of lean toward the Dremel. Knowing how hard I have had to pull to loosen some nuts that a socket fit, maybe even plan to Dremel all 4. The tools may work great on 90% of the nuts. Yours sounds like the other 10%.

Do not worry about damaging them. Once off, throw all 4 as far as you can. Those lock nuts, unless seized like that one, aren't going to stop any but the rankest amateur thieves. Go buy 4 new standard lug nuts. Maybe inspect the others and also replace any beat up ones too. Put everything back together with a dab, one dab!, of antisieze and torque 80% of spec.

Once upon a time, I set out to remove the steering wheel from my 57 Chevy to fix the turn signal. Even with my father and older brother's help we could not get it off. I finally took it to a garage. There was some snickering when I explained my problem. An hour later and it was finally off, the smirks were gone. The mechanic said it was the worst one he ever had.

phenomic · Dec 18, 2004

Thanks for the help guys, i got the other 3 off all with trouble and already tossed em. Ill try prying the the tire a little bit, that seems likea good idea. My dad chiseled at it a little bit and i dont think the special sockets will even fit on it anymore. I may try dremeling. I think it would be very easy to cut the whole stud off, but i am wondering if you need to weld a new stud in or not?

BTW, what should i torque the nuts to from now on so i know for sure. I never had a spec but i do have a torque wrench and i usually just do 95ft lbs. It seems to hold well and easy enough to get off.

goodoleboy · Dec 18, 2004

try a pipe wrench if it will fit. I have one that is about 6 inches long. Works wonders on any bolt that it can reach.

labman · Dec 19, 2004

Studs are pressed into the hub. Usually you can drive one back and out. You may be able to pull the new one in with a nut and spacers. Sometimes you must remove the hub, usually not fun.

''Also, would dremeling a few nothches into it and then chiseling it help at all? '' Just one good slot, then finish and expand it with the chisel. The nut may then turn with anything you can get on it. If not, then a second slot on the other side. Letting the chisel do the work next to the threads, should save the stud.

With antisieze, 80 pound feet should do the job on most lug nuts.

phenomic · Dec 19, 2004

Hey guys, i got it off. I used a combination of techniques and finally something worked. I tried prying it and it may have contributed but i ended up hammering a 21mm socket onto the nut. The hex shape with teeth in it was originally turned into a circle and my dad chisesled it and broke half the circle off so i couldnt get enough grip with smaller sockets. I ended up using the bigger socket to get pas the circle shape to the larger diameter portion and it got a good seat. It took my impact almost a minute to get it off. Thanks for the help guys. If anyone else has these, i recommend you take em off and throw em away while you still can.

JohnBrowning · Dec 19, 2004

THe first time I used Snap-On's fluted lsockets was for the exact same problem you are haveing now. I tried cutting off the revolveing collar to get at the actual nut(Gorilla Security Nuts). The vise grips and sockets pounded on just rounded the crome plated brass nut. I then tried brazeing anothernut to it to turn it off. No Luck!

Finaly I remembered about the SNap-On fluted sockets. I knew a guy from my YMCA that worked at Discount Tire. I took to him and in 30 Sec. he had it off. Trust me the little chewed up stump of a lug nut looked like a Pyramid when I took it too him! After seeing these in action I decided to get the Craftsman knock off as soon as they were available. P.S. He did not charge me a dime to take it off. I am sure most places would not either!

JeepZJ4.0 · Dec 19, 2004

Phenomic - On the side of the "key" of the locking lug nuts, it says not to use an impact wrench to put them on or remove them. Just sharing just in case you decide to put them on again. Good luck!

Lug nut wont come off, highly deformed.

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